Is this LX570 rusty?

[cebseb]

Greetings everyone!

Been lurking for quite some time now doing research for a vehicle purchase. After doing some research, I settled on a 2008 LX570 that has about 180k miles (and in a different state). I sent over the refundable down payment and the pre-purchase inspection was conducted by a nearby Lexus Dealership yesterday. However the tech was unable to finish the report and I won’t be receiving it until Monday at the earliest.

I normally would be fine with just waiting, but the Service Advisor let me know that the tech did find rust that I would want to see around the upper control arms. So now I’m flustered. The vehicle did start its life in Ohio so I was expecting rust. And I was ready to walk away if it was at a certain level, but the videos and photos the sales guy initially sent me before I committed showed little evidence of rust that would concern me.

Some of the photos are screen grabs from video, so I apologize for the poor quality.

Anyways, what does everyone think? Would it be possible that other areas of the undercarriage would show an unacceptable amount of rust with what you see in the attached images?

I appreciate any and all input and my thanks goes out to this community for being so open with information.

Cheers

 

[jwmNC]

Definitely rust that's been sprayed, it's really hard to tell if it's significant without a hammer and screwdriver to see if anything flakes off or is weak enough to punch through with the screwdriver. Hopefully the tech can give you a solid opinion. Ask them to check the cross members behind the rear wheels and in front of the rear bumper. Salt tends to get thrown up in there and rust out those parts.

 

[cebseb]

Definitely rust that's been sprayed, it's really hard to tell if it's significant without a hammer and screwdriver to see if anything flakes off or is weak enough to punch through with the screwdriver. Hopefully the tech can give you a solid opinion. Ask them to check the cross members behind the rear wheels and in front of the rear bumper. Salt tends to get thrown up in there and rust out those parts.

Definitely rust that's been sprayed, it's really hard to tell if it's significant without a hammer and screwdriver to see if anything flakes off or is weak enough to punch through with the screwdriver. Hopefully the tech can give you a solid opinion. Ask them to check the cross members behind the rear wheels and in front of the rear bumper. Salt tends to get thrown up in there and rust out those parts.

Ah. Dang. Goes to show my naivety. The tech has already done the check and video was taken. I’ll share the video once I get my hands on it hopefully on Monday. Until then, I’ll sit and fidget.

 

[OregonLC]

What state(s) does CarFax show the vehicle has operated in?

 

[cebseb]

What state(s) does CarFax show the vehicle has operated in?

Ohio, Texas, Arizona, New Mexico. It definitely spent more time in Ohio than all the others.

 

[OregonLC]

The OH time could definitely be problematic. I've seen prophylactic undercoating jobs look like that so it's possible that's just a rubberized coating that is all lumpy. I think you're correct that having whomever is doing your prebuy inspection scrape a few spots back to see both what's under it and what comes of adhered to the coating. Rust-through is probably not an issue, it's just how much of a pain it will be to work on the truck going forward if the fasteners are welded together with rust, so make sure that some of the inspection points scrape off to show thread ends.

 

[cebseb]

The OH time could definitely be problematic. I've seen prophylactic undercoating jobs look like that so it's possible that's just a rubberized coating that is all lumpy. I think you're correct that having whomever is doing your prebuy inspection scrape a few spots back to see both what's under it and what comes of adhered to the coating. Rust-through is probably not an issue, it's just how much of a pain it will be to work on the truck going forward if the fasteners are welded together with rust, so make sure that some of the inspection points scrape off to show thread ends.

Understood. I appreciate all the input. When I get the report, I’ll call Lexus to see if I could speak with the Tech.

 

[grinchy]

In particular we’ve seen the Ahc line that goes from right to left above the rear crossmember rust thru. Also the main Ahc manifold cluster near the left rear wheel in the frame has been reported 1 or 2 times. I’d try to get pics of that.

If you do buy a rusty 200, you could look into getting one of the induction bolt heaters to help with the inevitable maintenance issues on fasteners.

 

[bloc]

Being in Vegas where a 200 can live out its days totally rot free, I’d wait for one that has no time in cancer alley.

 

[cebseb]

In particular we’ve seen the Ahc line that goes from right to left above the rear crossmember rust thru. Also the main Ahc manifold cluster near the left rear wheel in the frame has been reported 1 or 2 times. I’d try to get pics of that.

If you do buy a rusty 200, you could look into getting one of the induction bolt heaters to help with the inevitable maintenance issues on fasteners.

AHC is currently functioning as expected. Another tidbit shared by the service advisor. However, deleting that system has always been an option for me.

 

[cebseb]

Being in Vegas where a 200 can live out its days totally rot free, I’d wait for one that has no time in cancer alley.

Agreed, but this particular case was within a price range that warranted at least a cursory look for me.

 

[OregonLC]

AHC is currently functioning as expected. Another tidbit shared by the service advisor. However, deleting that system has always been an option for me.

Differing opinions on this, but on the 200 I would keep the AHC if it's an Overland build. If you want to crawl or desert race that's different. The 100 AHC was much more fragile and converting to conventional shocks and springs is a valid strategy.

 

[bloc]

Differing opinions on this, but on the 200 I would keep the AHC if it's an Overland build. If you want to crawl or desert race that's different. The 100 AHC was much more fragile and converting to conventional shocks and springs is a valid strategy.

I love my KDSS (see my sig) but agree with this

 

[cebseb]

Differing opinions on this, but on the 200 I would keep the AHC if it's an Overland build. If you want to crawl or desert race that's different. The 100 AHC was much more fragile and converting to conventional shocks and springs is a valid strategy.

Got it. I’ve read that the AHC system has proven itself to be quite robust and that “refreshing” it (globes and fluid) seems to be effective in both cost and result . However, as @grinchy shared above, the lines may be problematic and a replacement may seem necessary. I’ve read a few threads about replacing the lines and although not beyond my capabilities, it is starting to cross the boundary of being worth it in time and effort compared to traditional suspension mods.

I should have prefaced this entire thread that the reason I’m purchasing this vehicle is to use it as an access tool for my hobby. I’m an avid climber here in Vegas and the places I frequent require (on average) 45 miles of highway time and roughly 5 miles (on average) for off-road driving. Nothing crazy, but we do see side by sides frequenting the trails during certain seasons. Most of my friends use 4Runners or Tacomas with slightly upgraded suspensions and KO2s. I first started shopping for both of those, but the used market seems to be quite inflated. So I stepped up to the next price bracket and found the prices to be more realistic, and in the case of the LX570, undervalued at times. In my opinion, of course.

 

[bloc]

A stock LX570 will run circles around a taco or 4Runner. I agree completely on the value proposition, looking at used tacomas is how I ended up with my 80 (before prices inflated) and now 200.

I do think you are on the right path, but I wouldn’t be worried about that hydraulic line. It happens enough that it can’t be considered rare, but still the vast majority of rigs (even with corrosion) don’t have the problem, and if you are concerned about it the line can be changed as PM to avoid you being stranded.

And Vegas is a great place for climbing! I think you’ll find a 200 exceptional for that use.

 

[cebseb]

…and if you are concerned about it the line can be changed as PM to avoid you being stranded.

What does PM stand for? I haven’t seen that before, pardon my ignorance. Also, I was under the impression that if the AHC were to go out, I can still operate the vehicle normally, albeit in a less optimal state of comfort, without damaging anything else. Is this not the case? Should I wait for a tow to avoid something catastrophic?

 

[bloc]

What does PM stand for? I haven’t seen that before, pardon my ignorance. Also, I was under the impression that if the AHC were to go out, I can still operate the vehicle normally, albeit in a less optimal state of comfort, without damaging anything else. Is this not the case? Should I wait for a tow to avoid something catastrophic?

Preventative Maintenance. Doing the line in your driveway on your schedule with tools at home makes the job a lot more manageable.

And yes you can drive it on roads but hypothetically if you were five miles in on a rutted trail and stuck in low that is asking for damage. All avoidable by addressing the single somewhat common corrosion-related AHC issue.

 

[lx200inAR]

What does PM stand for? I haven’t seen that before, pardon my ignorance. Also, I was under the impression that if the AHC were to go out, I can still operate the vehicle normally, albeit in a less optimal state of comfort, without damaging anything else. Is this not the case? Should I wait for a tow to avoid something catastrophic?

The typical line over the rear cross member itself won’t leave you stuck, but you would need to pull the fuse (or hope the system shuts down) so that the system doesn’t try to lower/raise, as that will cause loss of height. The loss of height is what would cause you trouble, as it can lower ground clearance quite a bit. That line isn’t typically under pressure, so you won’t lose height just by that line failing.

 

[Zill]

I’m in the boat of since you’re in the desert, don’t settle with a rig that has that black undercoating sprayed on it to cover up whatever is hiding under it. You’re thankfully in an area where you can find a clean one with little effort, and buying a clean 200\570 does take time to find the right now since they’re rare rigs, but great value propositions at this time.

Cancerous rust kills land cruisers, not much else.

 

[cebseb]

I’m in the boat of since you’re in the desert, don’t settle with a rig that has that black undercoating sprayed on it to cover up whatever is hiding under it. You’re thankfully in an area where you can find a clean one with little effort, and buying a clean 200\570 does take time to find the right now since they’re rare rigs, but great value propositions at this time.

Cancerous rust kills land cruisers, not much else.

I’m ready to walk away and begin my search anew, but let’s play the conversation out I’ll be having with the Sales guy:

Me: Sorry, with the amount of rust I’m seeing on the PPI, I’m not comfortable taking possession of the vehicle. Thanks for your time.

Sales Person: Is there anything we can do to make you change your mind?

At this point, the price I’m paying for this 2008 LX570 is $18k. It’s financed through them. Is there no price they can offer me (within reason for them) to consider keeping the deal if the rust is minimal?

I understand that I can probably find much cheaper prices through private sales (I consistently do), but the few I have attempted to complete have left quite a bad taste in my mouth. I have reached a point where I would rather pay a premium to have the time and the option to walk away if things feel wrong.