Is this a safe connection?

[lovetoski]

Hey,

I was able to find an older 8274 for a reasonable price locally. I have never used a winch before, and will proceed carefully as I do learn. I'm curious about how the hook is attached to the cable...note the "swaged" method. Is this ok?


Also, I noted that the hook only has a 1.5 ton working load limit...seems a bit low...I assume I should have 4 ton min WLL?

Cable appears to be 5/16" by my calipers.

Thanks for any input!

 

[lowenbrau]

It is all good and looks factory. Swagged connections are stronger than Crosby clamps. Cable looks like 5/16 or 3/8. WLL refers to safe for lifting (think lifting over a schoolyard of kids) and has a 5X safety factor.

Hook it up and pull out a stump!

 

[opie74]

Not all WLL on sling hooks are a 5:1. It depends on how the manufacturer chooses to rate their product. Some are 4:1. Best to assume its a 4:1 for safety sake.

The swagged eye is perfectly acceptable. And depending on the size of the cable, the hook seems to be sized right at the limit of the cable. IMO this would be an unsafe scenario. You want your hook to be a good bit stronger than the cable so in the event something breaks, its the cable and not the hook with whats left of the hook coming back at you still connected to the cable. You will notice that most winch line companies are using hooks rated at 28,000+ even though 3/8 Dyneema is rated at 17,600 minimum. Most carry a WLL based on 4:1.

 

[lovetoski]

Hook says made in China. Does that mean anything regarding it's capacity?

 

[opie74]

Hook says made in China. Does that mean anything regarding it's capacity?

Not necessarily. Many of the hooks used for winch lines are manufactured overseas. Some don't like the stigma of Chinese goods, and some of that has merit. But the fact its made in china doesn't inherently mean its a bad hook.

There are different grades of hooks, however. Grade 40, 60, 70, 80, 100, 120 etc. The higher the grade the stronger it will be, size for size. Ive found the galvanized hooks, like what appears to be whats pictured, are usually grade 40.

A hook with a 4 ton WLL would be ideal and should be stronger by a wide margin than the cable itself. If you are interested in replacing the hook, you can cut that one off with a grinder and attach a sling hook using a connecting link/hammerlink or get a half link hook.

How does the rest of the cable look? Have you pulled it all off the drum? Just judging by the appearance of the thimble and the eye, it doesn't look as if its ever been used or loaded.

 

[Southeast Overland]

You want your hook to be a good bit stronger than the cable so in the event something breaks, its the cable and not the hook with whats left of the hook coming back at you still connected to the cable.

This

Hook says made in China. Does that mean anything regarding it's capacity?

Chinese metal might not be as strong/dependable/consistent as domestic or European metal.

 

[lovetoski]

How does the rest of the cable look? Have you pulled it all off the drum? Just judging by the appearance of the thimble and the eye, it doesn't look as if its ever been used or loaded.

Man o man, I do learn a lot on here! I haven't unspooled the cable, but as you say it doesn't look too bad. I will unspool it tomorrow.

Instead I was trying to fit it onto my ARB, and found I had to rotate the solenoid box back towards the grill, which was tough because the various nuts for the wires were rusted. Took it apart to look around...more rust. Broke off one of the wiring studs for the motor, so pulled the motor...then figured since I was that far I might as well take a peek inside the gear housing...it reminded me of my knuckles when I bought my 60...really gross, watery soupy dirty...so - long story short - maybe the cable looks good, but the winch needs work to bring it back to life...

Next is to read the threads on overhauling an 8247...

Even with my limited wrenching skills, fixing stuff is part of the fun/challenge/pleasure I get out of this "hobby" (addiction more accuractly).

 

[80t0ylc]

Take some more pics of the winch disassembled. Guys that have rebuilt before can help you with strategy & ideas. Wow, that hook scares me. Why would anybody put a wimpy hook like that on a 8274 & Chinese metal to boot. Look at the thickness of the cable hook loop compared to the hook itself. It would probably snap right there under extreme stress. Cut it off and replace it. That's an accident looking for a place to happen. A couple of pics of my hook for comparison. It's on a 25 yr old 8K Ramsey.

 

[opie74]

Look at the thickness of the cable hook loop compared to the hook itself. It would probably snap right there under extreme stress.

Not much difference there than with other captive eye hooks.

Don't judge its strength by the thickness of the captive eye. It shares the same rules of physics as a strap or winch line that is configured essentially in a basket. The force is split equally between each side of the loop. i.e. single line pull all the forces are carried on the single line. Run your line through a snatchblock and back to an anchor point and the sum of all forces generated are split evenly between the 2 legs.

 

[Michael Hanson]

I dont care for the hook. I had one like it on my 1 ton come a long. It broke easily. Mike

 

[1911]

I dont care for the hook.

I have one with a hook, and one with a safety thimble - much prefer the safety thimble:

 

[lovetoski]

Take some more pics of the winch disassembled. Guys that have rebuilt before can help you with strategy & ideas. Wow, that hook scares me. Why would anybody put a wimpy hook like that on a 8274 & Chinese metal to boot.

Thanks for all the input guys. Will look locally at rigging supply places for a better hook.

Also, thought I'd mention that the three posts on the motor were frozen solid (F1, F2, A). They broke off...so I was able to find replacement ones and install them. Not super easy, but the motor works now. Solinoids are cooked, so will get an albright from summit. Got the winch installed on my ARB, so I have at least something to show for my work so far.

 

[opie74]

Looks good love. My extreme OCD would have that cable laid in there a little better.

If you are looking for hooks, there are many places you can purchase them on the net. Your best bet would be a half link hook like whats pictured on the right. For the one on the left youll need a connecting link as well.

 

[Josie'sLandCruiser]

Hi All:

Dave, head over to that fishing boat supply place behind Fisherman's Terminal, you can get rigging parts there for a decent price!

Regards,

Alan

 

[86tuning]

IMO that hook is fine, it's what came with the winch. 1.5T WLL = ~ 6T breaking = 12k breaking. Winch is rated for 8k max pull strength...

Once you get it all together, you should spool the cable on neatly under BIG TENSION so that when it comes time to use it, the cable won't dive between the layers and get all jammed up.

What we do is find a minor slope away from traffic and hitch up to the base of a tree or another truck, then winch yourself up to it with the handbrake applied lightly. You can control the amount of tension with the handbrake.

Me, I'd play around with the wire cable a bit, then switch to a synthetic rope in future.

My synthetic winch line has no hook on it so I can tuck it behind my hawse fairlead for daily driver duties. Prevents damage to the line from idiots bumping up against the nose of my truck.

Jealous of your 8274.