is the 2 lt engine reliable???

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Which leads to my final question:

How does one test the EGR to see if it is stuck open?


I was advised to take it apart, but it looks to me like the top half of the 'saucer' is crimped on after the lower half of the 'saucer' is screwed to the cast housing. ie: it only comes apart once!
 
On another note, I was looking at a 2LT head and a 2L one today in my parts pile. The 2L head was cracked between every pair of valves. The 2LT had no cracks - except in the pre-cups, but they all crack there and those can be replaced.

Interesting as I thought the 2LT was more prone to cracking. Of course that 2L may have been abused.

I suspect that the quality and type of cast iron used has a lot to do with this. Cast iron varies greatly according to what it actually contains in the way of alloys and impurities etc. I wouldn't be surprised if this was the deciding factor in the cracking issue. Look at the bodies: they rust because they are made of recycled steel which always has various impurities and residues of other metals in it. The cabs were made with better steel it seems, which is why they don't rust the same way. I remember reading years ago that 45% of Japanese steel production was recycled scrap. Go down to a scrap yard and have a look at what comes out of the shredder - you're never going to sort that stuff out, it all goes in the smelter together and what doesn't burn off stays.

Some batches of cast may not have been as good as others. If the price was too high or supply was short the supplier may have mixed in scrap or supplied a lower grade. If there isn't time to age the castings properly this can definitely cause problems of this kind. Castings used to be left out in the weather to age for a few years so that natural heating and cooling could relieve the stresses. Now it is done cryogenically etc., but I've heard for example that in the 80s BMW shipped "green" engine blocks when they couldn't keep up with demand. Some engines seized when the blocks distorted later and the engines were quietly replaced with no questions asked.

Just some theorizing...
 
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There has been talk of it being a specific casting problem with quality, however the newer heads are also thicker so may have been either a design issue in the first place or the new design was there to get over problems with bad castings.

2L heads do go but I have never heard of it being a specific problem. Interesting that over here, we use the same head for the 2L, 2LT, 2LTE and 2L2 engines. Also a 3L head is supposed to fit with minimal or no modification but a possible thicker gasket to reduce the compression ratio. I think the same is true of the 2L head that we use in that it has a thicker gasket for 2LT and 2LTE applications.

With regard to the EGR, no real way of testing it without aplying vacuum and seeing if the state changes, i.e you can blow through it or not when vacuum applied or not. Other test is that if you disable the EGR and it makes no difference, then it was either blocked shut - in which case you already had the EGR mod in effect, or blocked open in which case blocking the vacuum pipe makes no difference. As you say, you can't take it apart and rebuild as you can't get it back together. If you open it, it's trashed.
 
Interesting that over here, we use the same head for the 2L, 2LT, 2LTE and 2L2 engines. Also a 3L head is supposed to fit with minimal or no modification but a possible thicker gasket to reduce the compression ratio. I think the same is true of the 2L head that we use in that it has a thicker gasket for 2LT and 2LTE applications.
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Makes sense from a manufacturing POV, I wouldn't be surprised if it was the same here, at least with the 2L and 2LT. Some say they are different I believe, but I couldn't see anything looking at those two heads ther other day. That's without putting the digital vernier on them of course.

The 3L is a common retrofit for cracked 2Ls, as I'm sure you know. How different it is I have no idea, never having seen one.

As for the EGR test, a mechanic blew/sucked into/on the vacuum hose and claimed he could hear the diaphragm move - I didn't, which is why I'm still wondering!

How do you like your HDJ80? Had a look over one last week, very impressive - despite the fact that the Range Rover had coil spring/trailing arm suspension 30 years ago :lol: Not to mention a better looking body!
 
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Previa Diesel said:
How do you like your HDJ80? Had a look over one last week, very impressive - despite the fact that the Range Rover had coil spring/trailing arm suspension 30 years ago :lol: Not to mention a better looking body!
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Having had an '86 Range Rover and a '95 Discovery, the 80 series is what the Range Rover could have been if it had a decent Diesel engine and decent build quality. There is no doubt that the series 1 Rangey was a damn fine piece of kit and way ahead of it's time, however it was let down by a pretty poor engine (personally I don't like the bacofoil V8 as it is not very efficient really for it's size and the fuel consumption is horrible for it's size - a Small Block Chevy would get better gas mileage). Also the on-road manners of the original pre air suspension range rovers was absolutely apalling (even my 95 Disco was awful in that respect). My bruiser handles much better on road and has almost as much articulation out of the box as the original Rangey.

Personally I prefer the looks although the later Range Rovers look real nice and the interior is better than my lounge. That being said the Diesel engine is still a Dog really - should have got the 3 litre diesel off BMW when they had the chance.

Plus now they are getting far too complicated - then again so is the latest LC so forget that comment.

And actually although people will possibly disagree, the nearest vehicle I ever had to the overall package of the 80 series was my '79 full size Jeep with the big V8 and quadra trac. That was an amazing beast for it's size, was pretty much unstoppable in anything and was built so simple it could be maintained with a roll of gaffer tape and a swiss army knife. Boy the fuel consumption was horrible though (11MPG on a run, 8MPG around town).
 
the 80 series is what the Range Rover could have been
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Amen! If Rover's corporate attitude hadn't been the same as Detroit's: make it as cheap as possible so we can get profits up this quarter and to hell with everything else.

Very sad, but very predictable. Having had Series III's I can only agree: alloy body panels on steel framing = oxidisation. It would have cost a few bob to cadmium-plate the body framing, ending the rust problem, but no, "maximum return to the shareholders!"...and of course the executives too.

Had a look under the hood of a Disco the other day, cheap tinwork, cheaper plastic, unrolled and not even deburred edges on the fender panels. Looks nice at a glance though and that fools some people. Not to mention that crappy old Buick V8 which is probably almost 40 years old by now.

No wonder the Germans got it. Not that that BMW doesn't build some crap too.

With GM now at junk bond status the end can't be far off. Time we rearranged our economics so that corporate decision making is guided by more than the daily stock price. That is if we want to have any industry in the future.
 
Previa Diesel said:
Amen! If Rover's corporate attitude hadn't been the same as Detroit's: make it as cheap as possible so we can get profits up this quarter and to hell with everything else.

Very sad, but very predictable. Having had Series III's I can only agree: alloy body panels on steel framing = oxidisation. It would have cost a few bob to cadmium-plate the body framing, ending the rust problem, but no, "maximum return to the shareholders!"...and of course the executives too.

Had a look under the hood of a Disco the other day, cheap tinwork, cheaper plastic, unrolled and not even deburred edges on the fender panels. Looks nice at a glance though and that fools some people. Not to mention that crappy old Buick V8 which is probably almost 40 years old by now.

No wonder the Germans got it. Not that that BMW doesn't build some crap too.

With GM now at junk bond status the end can't be far off. Time we rearranged our economics so that corporate decision making is guided by more than the daily stock price. That is if we want to have any industry in the future.
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Actually at the time when the Series 1 was made Land Rover's attitude was probably OK, it just that the factory had the british disease of the time of not making things well - wasn't really only a Land Rover problem - mind you a lot of the fragile stuff was just poor design - same as the series Land Rovers and the early Defenders. It sems the Toyota Attitude was design it as strong as possible and then design in a bit extra strength just so there is no comeback and they can keep their reputation as designing the most reliable (if sometimes deadly boring) vehicles.

However I think the corporate attitude is endemic now - even Chrysler who in the early 90s had an attitude of build it exciting and build it tough, seem to have got the corporate disease lately.

Oh well got a bit off topic there, back to the point, given certain limitations the 2L series (including the turbos) is a tough as a concrete bunker and will last a goodish way along the road to forever.
 
I know we should get back on topic, ;) but WADR, I'd say the British veer between the extremes of making things too well, and not well enough, and actually more the former than the latter. I can think of so many examples where products were built with all kinds of uneccesary and expensive adornments and features just for the stubborn love of craftsmanship and aesthetics.

As for the 2Ls, the problem is usually abuse and lack of maintenance IMO - as it is with most things!

Keep the oil clean all the time and they'll will never wear out.
 
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Previa Diesel said:
As for the 2Ls, the problem is usually abuse and lack of maintenance IMO - as it is with most things!

Keep the oil clean all the time and they'll will never wear out.
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harveya said:
back to the point, given certain limitations the 2L series (including the turbos) is a tough as a concrete bunker and will last a goodish way along the road to forever.
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Once all the items listed on this thread are taken care of, to ensure adequate cooling of the head, and a newer head installed...I am on board with you.

If those are not done I am still sitting where I was, which was: I would jump into a 3B equipped vehicle and drive across Canada...I would be much more leary of doing that with an early 2LT equipped vehicle, unless the things mentioned on this thread were done, in addition to a pyrometer.

I very much appreciate we all have different perpectives, and I very much appreciate all the great informtion that has been written on this thread about ways to ensure the 2LT is as long lived as can be. It is a keeper for anyone considering a Light Duty Cruiser, Hilux, or Surf.

My understanding is the 3L does not have these issues. Is that your understanding as well?

Thanks

gb
 
you know Greg, i might just take you up on that one...
so how about joinging me in Calgary and we head down to Nova Scotia and back. i will drive a stock (additional pyro) and you drive a stock 3B...
;^)
if you are right then you get to tow the LJ78 back here..
cheers and peace...
 
so how about joinging me in Calgary and we head down to Nova Scotia and back
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That'd be a good trip to make on WVO picked up along the way.


Keep the oil clean all the time and they'll will never wear out.
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Nobody's curious about how to do that??;)
 
Previa Diesel said:
That'd be a good trip to make on WVO picked up along the way. Nobody's curious about how to do that??;)
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We had a couple of guys in a BJ60 stop by the shop last year (or the year before) who were on WVO. They had traveled from Edmonton, around BC, and were heading back home. You're right: Lots of highway driving would make it sensible.

Wayne...to truely be coast to coast you have to start over here, and run it hard through the mountains...and even then that would prove nothing. I don't know what a scientific study would entail for a study; 100 of each? 500 of each? 1000 of each?

Actually, one day a cross Canada would be nice to do!

Yes...start a new thread on WVO Previa Diesel!

gb
 
you are correct, i might get lucky and make it...

if you and Petra ever feel like trying it i am sure i can convince Berni to go...
cheers
 
okay, i'll bite...
how?
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Toilet paper bypass filter such as Frantz or Motor Guard M30.

I run one on my 2LT with Mobil 1 and I'll never change the full flow or oil again. I just put in a new roll of Scott TP ever 2000 Km or so - which takes me all of 5 minutes - add about 1/4 litre for what was in the old roll and keep on truckin'

The TP filters to less than 1 micron, I've read that new oil is filtered to 5 microns, and the full flow is about 25 microns. Easy to see why the full flow will never 'wear out'.

The TP cleans all the oil in about 2 hours.

Cost me about $50. with DIY install. Easy to do the math, without even considering the time saved.

Also easy to see why no one in the auto industry has any incentive to sell these things either, fixing poorly maintained engines and changing oil is their bread and butter.

For rebuilds or low mileage JDM imports I would say something like this is a must have. One importer I talked to a couple of weeks ago sure jumped at the idea, but that makes him the exception to the rule.
 
denis said:
I think 2L 3L 5L were used in dynas.
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Well kind of :D The L range of motors are used in a kind of light duty Dyna that is really from the Toyoace family which is a LWB Hiace with a trayback.
There are versions in oz that are badged as Dyna or Toyoace that share the same body.
Its also possible to get a 2 tonne heavy duty Dyna with duallies and a 2tonne light duty Toyoace in the same year
A real Dyna has similar diffs as heavy duty cruiser while a light duty Dyna has the similar diffs to the Hilux/LCII and Hiace range(I think)

To complicate things further ,the older gasser HD dyna used the 4cyl R engines which are used in the Hilux/Hiace range and many Toyota cars.

I believe the JDM models include a hybrid Dyna/Hiace but Im not going down there:D
 
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