Is my R12 A/C retrofited to r134a ? (2 Viewers)

[cc93cruiser]

I have no AC on my r12 93 80 series.. I want to fix this as this is keeping my truck parked now that it's summer and the kids and wife don't want to deal with road trips and no AC.. I have searched and read numerous threads about converting r12 to r134a, but I am unclear if my system has been converted as there are Schrader valves on top of the compressor (not sure if r12 compressors have them or not). Sorry total newb with ac systems.. I am pretty sure that the system is dry and has no pressure as I stuck the end of my knife into the Schrader valve and nothing comes out. Also, on the condenser sight glass, there are no bubbles or liquid flowing through... I kinda want to keep my system r12 as I am able to get some r12 cans from a family member... What do you guys think? I kinda want to just fill up with r12 and see what it will do.. Here are pics to help indentify...

 

[cc93cruiser]

One more thing I forgot to mention is that when putting on the ac, the compressor does not seem kick on, once again probably due to now pressure or freon in system...

 

[LandLocked93]

Same sitch here. Think the PO neutered my AC. There's a dangling plug on top, everything is dry, nothing happens when I hit the AC button inside. It's completely dead.
It's not been a priority, but I'm more than willing to watch others painful adventures in resuscitation.

 

[baldilocks]

I follows the Toyota service bulletin when I converted my early 93 to r134a. I don’t believe yours has been converted. Compare my high pressure fitting. I can assist in finding the TSB if necessary.

 

[cc93cruiser]

I follows the Toyota service bulletin when I converted my early 93 to r134a. I don’t believe yours has been converted. Compare my high pressure fitting. I can assist in finding the TSB if necessary. View attachment 2695413

Excuse my ignorance, but what exact parts are needed for the conversion? Is it the condenser, expansion valve and hard lines along with Schrader type valves?

 

[Shoredreamer]

I‘ve gotta convert mine as well and have been collecting tools and parts to do it. I found the Toyota Bulletin and would follow that as a minimum guide regarding parts to replace. I did a couple quick and dirty RedTek charges in the last 8 years so I gotta replace everything and flush the system. http://tms.cleanautoalliance.org/documents/ac002t98.pdf

 

[baldilocks]

Excuse my ignorance, but what exact parts are needed for the conversion? Is it the condenser, expansion valve and hard lines along with Schrader type valves?

@Shoredreamer set you up with the TSB. All parts are listed in a kit. I paid $80 for that kit about 5 years ago. Have fun. You’ll need a green Oring kit and a bottle of PAG 46 oil.

 

[cc93cruiser]

@Shoredreamer set you up with the TSB. All parts are listed in a kit. I paid $80 for that kit about 5 years ago. Have fun. You’ll need a green Oring kit and a bottle of PAG 46 oil.

Baldi, did you send to me or shoredreamer? You quoted my post... I can use it if you send to me too please... Thanks...

 

[baldilocks]

If you can read it here, you can use it.

 

[trials935]

What's the part #'s for the orings for the receiver drier?

 

[baldilocks]

What's the part #'s for the orings for the receiver drier?

It’s easier to just buy an green Oring kit. It’ll have all you need plus.

 

[flintknapper]

I have no AC on my r12 93 80 series.. I want to fix this as this is keeping my truck parked now that it's summer and the kids and wife don't want to deal with road trips and no AC.. I have searched and read numerous threads about converting r12 to r134a, but I am unclear if my system has been converted as there are Schrader valves on top of the compressor (not sure if r12 compressors have them or not). Sorry total newb with ac systems.. I am pretty sure that the system is dry and has no pressure as I stuck the end of my knife into the Schrader valve and nothing comes out. Also, on the condenser sight glass, there are no bubbles or liquid flowing through... I kinda want to keep my system r12 as I am able to get some r12 cans from a family member... What do you guys think? I kinda want to just fill up with r12 and see what it will do.. Here are pics to help indentify...

View attachment 2695242

View attachment 2695243

Can you give us a better (closer and at a different angle) picture of the compressor and fitting(s). I can't tell from what you have provided whether or not that is an R134a adapter.

Unfortunately, there are a lot of 'unknowns' with older system that have not been run for awhile. We are happy to help in any way we can but need to know a few things:

1. When was the last time the system was working (compressor working, system cooling)?
2. Are you able/willing to do the work necessary to recharge what you have now or modify to accept R134a if that is the best route?
3. Do you have a strict budget for this....or are you able financially to invest in a mostly new system if it comes to that?

 

[flintknapper]

^^^^^

It 'might' be possible to resurrect the R12 system (if it has not previously been converted) but there are few things you would need to know. Such as whether or not the compressor on it now is serviceable and how many leaks you have (what they are and where they exist). Undoubtedly the system is empty at this point which is not good for a number of reasons.

Refrigerants are not 'consumables' (like engine oil) so if the system is low or empty it leaked out, that is a given.

At the very least....you are looking at pressuring the system to locate the leak(s). Then accessing whether it is best to repair those leaks or replace components. IF it becomes a matter of replacing very many parts then it makes sense to convert to R134a (if not already done). If not a lot of leaks....then repairing what you find, flushing the system, installing a new drier, pumping the system down and recharging might get you back in business. R12 will cool somewhat better then R134a but is getting pretty expensive these days.

So just let us know how you'd be willing to go about this and we will help all we can. There are a few knowledgeable folks here that can steer you the right direction.

 

[TurboDennis]

Converting R12 to R134 is the worst possible thing you can do to your A/C. DONT listen to all the tree huggers out there that tell you that you "should" retrofit.

R12 is a superior refrigerant to R134 in numerous ways.
-VASTLY superior cooling performance
-lower operating pressure (less strain on the components, lower chance to develop leaks)
-bigger molecule size (again, lower chance to develop leaks)
-R12 oil in non-hygroscopic (unlike R134 oil). This means that it won't absorb moisture and turn acidic, wrecking havoc on your system components when exposed to moisure/air.
- and many more reasons that are too technical for this discussion..

Most importantly, R12 and R134 oils are not compatible, and its IMPOSSIBLE to flush out all the traces of R12 oil from the system without replacing nearly all components, because oil literally will get embedded into rubber parts like seals, hoses, etc. When those traces mix with R134 oil, bad things happen..

Whatever you do , dont change to R134. Find the leaks, fix them, recharge with R12 and enjoy.

 

[LandLocked93]

Wait...
...you can still use R12?
Thought I had to refit to 134.

 

[TurboDennis]

Wait...
...you can still use R12?
Thought I had to refit to 134.

R12 is completely banned in Canada, but last i heard it was still available to buy in US (although very expensive). Some commie states may have additional restrictions on it - im not sure. But you most definitely can still get it and dont HAVE to retrofit to r134.

I know guys, who know guys who drive to US to get their R12, or get it illegally on the black market in Canada. It's THAT much better.

 

[ScratchedFJ]

Sorry for resurrecting this thread, but I'm in nearly the identical situation as you and in the same area! I bought my 1993 80-series a year ago with no working AC. Every shop I take it to turns me away as they don't have the adapters for the R12 system (even my local Toyota dealership). As far as I can tell, my AC system has been empty for awhile. So what I'm planning on doing is buying some of the adapters ($20 from O'Rielly's) and taking it into a shop to have them attempt to pull vacuum and recharge it with R134. This should at least help find the leaks.

@cc93cruiser were you able to come up with a solution to get you by?

 

[BILT4ME]

Sorry for resurrecting this thread, but I'm in nearly the identical situation as you and in the same area! I bought my 1993 80-series a year ago with no working AC. Every shop I take it to turns me away as they don't have the adapters for the R12 system (even my local Toyota dealership). As far as I can tell, my AC system has been empty for awhile. So what I'm planning on doing is buying some of the adapters ($20 from O'Rielly's) and taking it into a shop to have them attempt to pull vacuum and recharge it with R134. This should at least help find the leaks.

@cc93cruiser were you able to come up with a solution to get you by?

If you're going to convert, you MUST change the oil in the system, as the two oils do NOT get along.

Typically folks change the receiver/dryer, expansion valve, adapter fittings, all o-rings in the ENTIRE system, compressor oil.

 

[Cruzerman]

I did exactly what Bilt4Me said. I flushed out the entire system using an A/C flush, replaced the dryer and replaced all the O-rings. I pulled the evap out to replace the expansion valve, flush it out, and get rid of 20 years of debris clogging up the fins. The O-ring kit I got had a replacement gasket for the compressor, so I flushed it out and replaced that gasket. Put on the R134a adapters. Put in the oil and buttoned the system all back together. I then pulled a vacuum using free rental pump from Autozone. Once I saw that it held a vacuum, I added the R134a.

It is pretty straight forward and easy. Oh, and I used Nylog Blue on all the O-rings and such because someone who was an A/C person on mud recommended it. It is one of the cheapest jobs I have ever done on the cruiser. I think I had maybe $50, including the oil and R134a.

 

[flintknapper]

I did exactly what Bilt4Me said. I flushed out the entire system using an A/C flush, replaced the dryer and replaced all the O-rings. I pulled the evap out to replace the expansion valve, flush it out, and get rid of 20 years of debris clogging up the fins. The O-ring kit I got had a replacement gasket for the compressor, so I flushed it out and replaced that gasket. Put on the R134a adapters. Put in the oil and buttoned the system all back together. I then pulled a vacuum using free rental pump from Autozone. Once I saw that it held a vacuum, I added the R134a.

It is pretty straight forward and easy. Oh, and I used Nylog Blue on all the O-rings and such because someone who was an A/C person on mud recommended it. It is one of the cheapest jobs I have ever done on the cruiser. I think I had maybe $50, including the oil and R134a.

^^^^^