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- #21
I don't know how to check it but the previous owner said it was replaced about a year or two ago (and has been sitting since).
Is my LSPV bad, brake lines clogged, or other? (1 Viewer)
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I don't know how to check it but the previous owner said it was replaced about a year or two ago (and has been sitting since).
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- #23
It failed all of the above.
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- #24
With the engine off the pedal has pressure but I can still push it to the floor and when I do I can hear a short quiet farting noise coming from the engine area. As if air or liquid was escaping somewhere. I don't see any leaks anywhere under the truck or near the wheels.
I've only had the rig a week but my wife is already saying the S word. The problem is the brakes are so bad now that I can't take it anywhere to have them fixed and no one can test drive it even if she did make me sell it...
I've only had the rig a week but my wife is already saying the S word. The problem is the brakes are so bad now that I can't take it anywhere to have them fixed and no one can test drive it even if she did make me sell it...
Obvious question: are you keeping the fluid level topped up?
If you are not seeing any obvious leaks, then it is most likely the booster and master cylinder.
If the PO replaced it with the cheapest thing he could possibly find, then yes, it may have failed.
Have it towed to the shop of choice and have them do the required work on the brakes, as it does not appear you are confident enough to do them yourself. Yes this will be more expensive, however, you can give them the contact information here for the reference material on 'Mud.
Good Luck!
If the PO replaced it with the cheapest thing he could possibly find, then yes, it may have failed.
Have it towed to the shop of choice and have them do the required work on the brakes, as it does not appear you are confident enough to do them yourself. Yes this will be more expensive, however, you can give them the contact information here for the reference material on 'Mud.
Good Luck!
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- #28
Yes I'm keeping it topped off and yes the hand brake works really well. I guess I could take it to Toyota using that.
The new issue related to the zero pressure while engine is running might be related to me having unscrewed the two lines from the MC last night in a desperate (stupid) attempt to see which line is working and which one isn't.
The new issue related to the zero pressure while engine is running might be related to me having unscrewed the two lines from the MC last night in a desperate (stupid) attempt to see which line is working and which one isn't.
Yes, once the lines have been opened, you introduce air into the system and they get soft. Then, when the engine is running, the pedal gets soft (hence the term "boost") because that is the purpose of power brakes.
Once the engine is off and you pump the brake pedal, it should get progressively harder IF it's operating properly. If not, it will still feel mushy, but more firm than when the engine is running.
If the pedal is hard while the engine is running, then the booster has definitely failed.
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- #30
It's not hard at all while it's running. I did some more searching around and that led me to suspect something to do with the vacuum. When the engine is running and I disconnect the vacuum line to the brakes, the pressure in the pedal returns. Which I guess isn't too surprising because it's almost simulating the engine not running.
The day after I bought it I took it to Toyota and another reputable mechanic in town and both said that the brakes are a complete mystery. (They didn't suspect the booster though) They gave me a list of what they thought MIGHT fix the brakes and it would cost about as much as what I paid for the truck. I think with time I'll be able to figure it out. It's an easy vehicle to work (lots of room, no rust, stuff is easy to find and get to and such) I just don't know my stuff well enough to diagnose issues.
hj 60
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It is not really expensive to replace it all, the soft brake lines can fail internally and release flakes of rubber that block the line.
Probably better to replace all soft lines, maybe some corroded hard lines, booster because it seems broken and front caliper rubbers can be damaged, rear cylinders could be leaking.
That is just for peace of mind and never look again at it.
I have the fsm brake stuff for 60 here, 80 is different but not a lot?: Brake bleed/LSPV=FIFTH BLEEDER/12x 1.25 helicoil - hj60.freeforums.org
Probably better to replace all soft lines, maybe some corroded hard lines, booster because it seems broken and front caliper rubbers can be damaged, rear cylinders could be leaking.
That is just for peace of mind and never look again at it.
I have the fsm brake stuff for 60 here, 80 is different but not a lot?: Brake bleed/LSPV=FIFTH BLEEDER/12x 1.25 helicoil - hj60.freeforums.org
You need to hook up with some locals. Look in the "Clubhouses: section above and find your local club and post there for some help. They can tell you who to go to and who NOT to go to and someone MAY be willing to help for a few bills or beer.
If you don't understand how the brakes work and what you are unhooking and such, stop messing with it. Get it in front of someone that knows what they are looking at and can maybe teach you. I have watched folks cost themselves a ton of money because they start messing with it and have no idea what they are doing and in the mean time have complicated or compromised the "troubleshooting tree" to properly diagnose the problem. Opening lines has certainly complicated the issue, as someone starting new on it will diagnose it differently and there are things they must start to fix FIRST in order to get it back to working order.
So, as it sits, it could be brake lines, master cylinder, booster, or just air in the lines. All this translates to time, which translates to $$$.
Could the vacuum fitting that goes into the booster be leaking? I would check that or have a mechanic pull a vacuum on the booster. I had a similar sounding issue after I replaced the booster. It turned out that the new booster was bad. I ordered another one and once it was installed, things got much better.
This is a quick, cheap thing to address. Worst case you replace an old hose.
Please don't drive without (hydraulic) brakes!
We don't know anything about you, so we have no idea how competent you are. For all we know, you have no idea how brake bleeding works, and you've just got air in the system. I second the suggestion to find a local club or 'mud member.
You could also try bypassing the LSPV and then bleed the simpler system to see if that helps. There is a free way to do that on an FZJ80 that also allows you to delete the ABS at the same time. You don't have the ABS though and you have drums in the rear, so I am not sure what would be needed, but it might just be a connector that you could pick up at the local auto parts store. That would at least let you eliminate the LSPV being the issue before you just start throwing parts at it.
So here is what I would do. Replace the booster if you hear it farting. Second do the master also. Third go pull the bleeders completely out of the rears they are prob clogged , see if fluid comes out if it does you have clogged bleeders. Do a gravity bleed the pumping on the brakes sucks in my opinion and can kill the master .
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- #37
RESOLVED! Or close enough.
Here is what I did. When I screwed up and took the lines off the MC at least I learned that fluid was flowing well through both MC holes into the two brake lines. So even now I think that either that top brake line is not suppose to have as much pressure as the bottom, or its stopped up somewhere along the way. I bought some tubing that would fit over the brake lines going into the LSPV, and out of the LSPV, and connected them that way just completely bypassing the LSPV. Doing that I got (nasty) brake fluid to bleed from both rears for the first time!
This confirmed that i needed a new LSPV so I contacted "Beno" to purchase a new one; his email response simply said "I am currently not accepting new MUD clients." So i got frustrated, soaked the LSPV in brake cleaner some more, beat on it with several metal objects but i still could not get that plunger to move and the booster still gave indications that it needed to be replaced. I called the mechanic on the Naval base near me and he was so much cheaper than everyone else that I gave up and was going to take it to him to do the work.
This morning I woke up and decided to give it one last try (I wanted this truck to be a learning experience, its not so much a money issue). I put the LSPV back on, connected all the brakes lines and started jumping on the rear bumper in one last attempt to get the plunger in the LSPV to brake free. I bled the system (following the LSPV, rear pass, rear driver, front pass, front driver, LSPV pattern) and got some air, but not much out of the rear bleeders. My wife informed me as she was pumping during the bleeding that the brakes were feeling really firm. I knew not to get excited until i started the car and sure enough, the brakes are mint!
I bought this car from my best friends parents and ive driven it a few times over the years and the brakes now are as good as I ever remember them being. I ran the above brake booster test and it passed each step. I can get the fronts to completely lock up if I really stomp HARD; which never would have happened before i started this brake journey. Now I am hoping and praying that tomorrow when I drive it they are still working...
I also really want to know what the deal is with the top brake line going into the LSPV. And a lot of people have been saying to replace the old rubber portions of the brake lines. I took a better look at them and most seem to be newer. There is only one or two that looks original and I think I will replace them. The PO said that over the last 2 years a lot of money has been put into the brakes by various people to get them to work and im thinking at least one of them was smart enough to replace the old rubber parts.
Thanks for everyone's help! Ive still got an oil leak (might just live with it), spark plugs, and the front axle to worry about. Ill try to be smarter about those.
Here is what I did. When I screwed up and took the lines off the MC at least I learned that fluid was flowing well through both MC holes into the two brake lines. So even now I think that either that top brake line is not suppose to have as much pressure as the bottom, or its stopped up somewhere along the way. I bought some tubing that would fit over the brake lines going into the LSPV, and out of the LSPV, and connected them that way just completely bypassing the LSPV. Doing that I got (nasty) brake fluid to bleed from both rears for the first time!
This confirmed that i needed a new LSPV so I contacted "Beno" to purchase a new one; his email response simply said "I am currently not accepting new MUD clients." So i got frustrated, soaked the LSPV in brake cleaner some more, beat on it with several metal objects but i still could not get that plunger to move and the booster still gave indications that it needed to be replaced. I called the mechanic on the Naval base near me and he was so much cheaper than everyone else that I gave up and was going to take it to him to do the work.
This morning I woke up and decided to give it one last try (I wanted this truck to be a learning experience, its not so much a money issue). I put the LSPV back on, connected all the brakes lines and started jumping on the rear bumper in one last attempt to get the plunger in the LSPV to brake free. I bled the system (following the LSPV, rear pass, rear driver, front pass, front driver, LSPV pattern) and got some air, but not much out of the rear bleeders. My wife informed me as she was pumping during the bleeding that the brakes were feeling really firm. I knew not to get excited until i started the car and sure enough, the brakes are mint!
I bought this car from my best friends parents and ive driven it a few times over the years and the brakes now are as good as I ever remember them being. I ran the above brake booster test and it passed each step. I can get the fronts to completely lock up if I really stomp HARD; which never would have happened before i started this brake journey. Now I am hoping and praying that tomorrow when I drive it they are still working...
I also really want to know what the deal is with the top brake line going into the LSPV. And a lot of people have been saying to replace the old rubber portions of the brake lines. I took a better look at them and most seem to be newer. There is only one or two that looks original and I think I will replace them. The PO said that over the last 2 years a lot of money has been put into the brakes by various people to get them to work and im thinking at least one of them was smart enough to replace the old rubber parts.
Thanks for everyone's help! Ive still got an oil leak (might just live with it), spark plugs, and the front axle to worry about. Ill try to be smarter about those.
Sorry for re-hashing this thread, but I have a question. Will this item here BLP10X1.0DF - Metric Brake Line Plug [BLP10X1.0DF] - $3.63 : Bel-Metric, Metric Hardware, Metric Fasteners, Metric Bolts, Metric Nuts & Time-Sert Thread Repair plug up my MC? I'm having similar issues and am similarly novice, bleeding has helped, but I'd figure for a few bucks I can plug up the MC and press the brakes if she goes to the floor I can figure that it's toast. I suspect the BB is also tost, as I'm hearing a weird weezing sound (faint) from the front. After doing extensive bleeding as stated earlier it helped a lot, I did notice that when the car was running and the brake depressed in Park, Neutral and Reverse NO change, when I drop it into drive the pedal goes down a bit, sounds like...? Thanks guys
