Is my door lock broken?

[StaticTorque]

I posted a video on my YouTube so you guys could see what the lock is doing. This is the passenger side front door. The key goes all the way in, but it doesn't turn at all. Even if in pull it out X amount it still won't turn in either direction. Here is the link to the YouTube video.


Following question is could I replace the LX door locks and ignition with the Toyota models?

 

[Travis 76]

How often have you used the lock?
If you have rarely used it the key you use for the ignition may be to worn out. A new key may work better. Also you can spray some WD-40 in it to help work it loose I had to get both my door looks freed up in my 94 FZJ-80. I thought I had the wrong key as they would not work.

 

[StaticTorque]

How often have you used the lock?
If you have rarely used it the key you use for the ignition may be to worn out. A new key may work better. Also you can spray some WD-40 in it to help work it loose I had to get both my door looks freed up in my 94 FZJ-80. I thought I had the wrong key as they would not work.

I've never really used it before since its passenger side. Still have the RS3000 in mine so ive been using the fob to lock. I have not tried on this door, I have tried on the other one and no luck.

 

[ajax1]

Sometimes my keys would do this in my 94, I would then operate the outside door handle a couple times and the key will turn

 

[StaticTorque]

Sometimes my keys would do this in my 94, I would then operate the outside door handle a couple times and the key will turn

I will give this a try.

But does anyone know if you can replace the LX locks and ignition with a Toyota model? My other lock is broken so it needs to be replaced. But Lexus wants $350 for one new one. So if they are both broke, it'd be cheaper to swap the Toyota ones in and not a double cut key.

 

[80t0ylc]

Worn keys are a plague of older rigs like our rigs. I fight this same problem on my '94 and 2 other 90's rigs. One reason I think the technology has gone to FOB's and keyless (start button) ignition switches. And it's worse in colder weather - like we're getting into. There's a graphite key & lock lube that works better than WD40 available at hardware stores, in a small aerosol can with a nozzle tube that's convenient to squirt deep into any door locks - even need to do house door locks from time to time. Our wetter Oregon climate doesn't help. Dryer desert climates are easier on locks. There it's mainly dust problems.

 

[StaticTorque]

Worn keys are a plague of older rigs like our rigs. I fight this same problem on my '94 and 2 other 90's rigs. One reason I think the technology has gone to FOB's and keyless (start button) ignition switches. And it's worse in colder weather - like we're getting into. There's a graphite key & lock lube that works better than WD40 available at hardware stores, in a small aerosol can with a nozzle tube that's convenient to squirt deep into any door locks - even need to do house door locks from time to time. Our wetter Oregon climate doesn't help. Dryer desert climates are easier on locks. There it's mainly dust problems.

Any idea what its called or where I can get some?

 

[80t0ylc]

Any idea what its called or where I can get some?

Amazon - a search by "key and door lock lube" gets you plenty of choices. Best I saw was Houdini. This one doesn't use any teflon, silicone, graphite, grease or oil and works extremely well. Must be secret, but it's used by locksmiths. 5 stars - negative reviews sounded like idiots that couldn't roll rocks down a hill. I've got a can of "Lock-ease" that I got at a hardware store years ago and it uses graphite. But graphite can easily stain clothes or anything it touches so if you use anything with graphite in it - be careful. Graphite works as a dry lubricant and resists dust or grime sticking to it - that's why it works in locks. But it needs to be replenished periodically to remain effective. The trick is to flush out the grime that's collected over the years and leave a lubricant layer so the tiny pins in the lock, that line up with the "peaks & valleys" on your key move free & smooth, like they did when the rig was new. And this Houdini, seems to do just that, better than most.

Edit: After reading your previous posts, are you sure that the key you're trying is an original key for your rig? Seeing that you normally use a FOB to unlock your rig and you say your driver's door key lock is busted and you've never used it on your passenger door successfuly. It's possible that a previous owner replaced either the ignition lock or one or more of the door locks. My point is that if that key doesn't match your door locks, all the lock lube in the world won't help you.

If you're unsure try this: My '94 has a lock in the rear hatch & if yours has this same lock, it's probably original. If your key works in that lock, it's probably an original key. You may have to flush this lock out 1st. Mine has a cover over it that slides out of the way, but it doesn't keep out all the grime.

 

[StaticTorque]

Amazon - a search by "key and door lock lube" gets you plenty of choices. Best I saw was Houdini. This one doesn't use any teflon, silicone, graphite, grease or oil and works extremely well. Must be secret, but it's used by locksmiths. 5 stars - negative reviews sounded like idiots that couldn't roll rocks down a hill. I've got a can of "Lock-ease" that I got at a hardware store years ago and it uses graphite. But graphite can easily stain clothes or anything it touches so if you use anything with graphite in it - be careful. Graphite works as a dry lubricant and resists dust or grime sticking to it - that's why it works in locks. But it needs to be replenished periodically to remain effective. The trick is to flush out the grime that's collected over the years and leave a lubricant layer so the tiny pins in the lock, that line up with the "peaks & valleys" on your key move free & smooth, like they did when the rig was new. And this Houdini, seems to do just that, better than most.

Edit: After reading your previous posts, are you sure that the key you're trying is an original key for your rig? Seeing that you normally use a FOB to unlock your rig and you say your driver's door key lock is busted and you've never used it on your passenger door successfuly. It's possible that a previous owner replaced either the ignition lock or one or more of the door locks. My point is that if that key doesn't match your door locks, all the lock lube in the world won't help you.

If you're unsure try this: My '94 has a lock in the rear hatch & if yours has this same lock, it's probably original. If your key works in that lock, it's probably an original key. You may have to flush this lock out 1st. Mine has a cover over it that slides out of the way, but it doesn't keep out all the grime.

I’ll give that a try, cause who would replace the one in there rear? Lol the rig only came with one key. But when I bought it the fob didn’t work so I was using the DS lock to lock the doors. But that one is now 100% broken.

 

[KC masterpiece]

I just got some new keys cut at the dealer. They were $9 each so I got 4. Worth a shot and you won't regret it. Any Toyota dealer can cut from the VIN if you bring proof of ownership. They did have to order the blanks though.

Well worth it. My original key never worked in the tailgate or passenger door. I'm amazed it still worked in the ignition.

Now all my locks work again.

 

[StaticTorque]

I just got some new keys cut at the dealer. They were $9 each so I got 4.

Well worth it. My original key never worked in the tailgate or passenger door. I'm amazed it still worked in the ignition.

View attachment 2855945

Unfortunately I have to go to Lexus for my keys because they are the double cut keys. The cuts are on the inside of the key, rather than the inside like yours.

 

[StaticTorque]

Amazon - a search by "key and door lock lube" gets you plenty of choices. Best I saw was Houdini. This one doesn't use any teflon, silicone, graphite, grease or oil and works extremely well. Must be secret, but it's used by locksmiths. 5 stars - negative reviews sounded like idiots that couldn't roll rocks down a hill. I've got a can of "Lock-ease" that I got at a hardware store years ago and it uses graphite. But graphite can easily stain clothes or anything it touches so if you use anything with graphite in it - be careful. Graphite works as a dry lubricant and resists dust or grime sticking to it - that's why it works in locks. But it needs to be replenished periodically to remain effective. The trick is to flush out the grime that's collected over the years and leave a lubricant layer so the tiny pins in the lock, that line up with the "peaks & valleys" on your key move free & smooth, like they did when the rig was new. And this Houdini, seems to do just that, better than most.

Edit: After reading your previous posts, are you sure that the key you're trying is an original key for your rig? Seeing that you normally use a FOB to unlock your rig and you say your driver's door key lock is busted and you've never used it on your passenger door successfuly. It's possible that a previous owner replaced either the ignition lock or one or more of the door locks. My point is that if that key doesn't match your door locks, all the lock lube in the world won't help you.

If you're unsure try this: My '94 has a lock in the rear hatch & if yours has this same lock, it's probably original. If your key works in that lock, it's probably an original key. You may have to flush this lock out 1st. Mine has a cover over it that slides out of the way, but it doesn't keep out all the grime.

So the plot thickens… I went and tried my key that I have in the back, and it did the same thing. It only turned like a 1/8th of an inch. Could that mean the ignition was replaced?

 

[StaticTorque]

For reference, this is the key. I don’t know what else to call it lol. This is why I’m asking if it can be swapped to the Toyota keys.

 

[KC masterpiece]

For reference, this is the key. I don’t know what else to call it lol. This is why I’m asking if it can be swapped to the Toyota keys.

View attachment 2855956

Changing the Toyota style would probably require all new cylinders including the ignition. Our 470 has that style didn't know they did it for the 80s.

 

[StaticTorque]

Changing the Toyota style would probably require all new cylinders including the ignition. Our 470 has that style didn't know they did it for the 80s.

Oh, I know. But Lexus wants $350 just for ONE door lock. So if I could buy they Toyota ones for roughly the same price, I’d rather do that.

Edit: They only did it for the LX models. Lucky me right…?

 

[80t0ylc]

So the plot thickens… I went and tried my key that I have in the back, and it did the same thing. It only turned like a 1/8th of an inch. Could that mean the ignition was replaced?

Wow! Didn't know Lexus keys were so different. 1st thing I would do is get some lock cleaner from wherever you choose. Then I'd flush and clean the heck out of your locks cylinders that might still be working - that is the passenger side and rear. (You know, I'd also try cleaning the driver's door - you never can tell. It may just need a good cleaning.) Then if the key works in them, get new keys made from a Lexus dealer for backup. Ask about a new driver's door lock and price, if you need to while you're there. I think that would be the most cost effective thing you could do.

@KC masterpiece pic is excellent to show key wear! From your pic, looks like Lexus keys look like they hold up better, but the locks still need to be cleaned and lubed.

 

[80t0ylc]

So the plot thickens… I went and tried my key that I have in the back, and it did the same thing. It only turned like a 1/8th of an inch. Could that mean the ignition was replaced?

Also, the key you got with the rig worked for you in the driver's door & ignition when you got the rig, right? If so I think you have all original locks.

 

[CJF]

1st thing I would do is get some lock cleaner from wherever you choose. Then I'd flush and clean the heck out of your locks cylinders that might still be working - that is the passenger side and rear. (You know, I'd also try cleaning the driver's door - you never can tell. It may just need a good cleaning.)

Simple as that.

OP, get off the computer and go soak all the locks with WD-40.

You're obsessing over what could very likely be a non-issue.

 

[StaticTorque]

Wow! Didn't know Lexus keys were so different. 1st thing I would do is get some lock cleaner from wherever you choose. Then I'd flush and clean the heck out of your locks cylinders that might still be working - that is the passenger side and rear. (You know, I'd also try cleaning the driver's door - you never can tell. It may just need a good cleaning.) Then if the key works in them, get new keys made from a Lexus dealer for backup. Ask about a new driver's door lock and price, if you need to while you're there. I think that would be the most cost effective thing you could do.

@KC masterpiece pic is excellent to show key wear! From your pic, looks like Lexus keys look like they hold up better, but the locks still need to be cleaned and lubed.

Well I know for a fact the DS needs to be replaced. I took it apart over the weekend and its toast. Lexus wants $350 for one lock. That's why I'm tempted to switch the Toyota keys. Also having an intermittent starting problem that could be related to the ignition switch. So it could be a 2 birds one stone situation.

Also, the key you got with the rig worked for you in the driver's door & ignition when you got the rig, right? If so I think you have all original locks.

Well, in the DS door i didn't realize it but the key never fully went into the door. And over the year of owning it I thought that's how it was supposed to be. Not my brightest of moments I know lol. This is why I'm thinking that the key I have isn't the original to the door locks.

Simple as that.

OP, get off the computer and go soak all the locks with WD-40.

You're obsessing over what could very likely be a non-issue.

That's a good point. I tried it on the DS door. It did not work so now I'm here lmao