Hold-up. Distributor removal and replacement is tricky. And, the manual describes getting things oriented
before pulling the distributor. If it is replaced incorrectly, oil pressure will be lost, and you will ruin bearings in a matter of minutes.
The only way to confirm the camshaft's position, and therefore the valve-train for purposes of confirming the distributor's rotor position, is to check the valve lash.
I hope I got this correct. One crankshaft rotation, as indicated in the flywheel inspection window, will reveal that some valves are closed (there is rocker-arm clearance) and others are open, based on where the camshaft is in the cycle. "A" is 7-deg. before-top-dead-center on the compression-stroke (the ball in the flywheel inspection window).
There are two crank rotations for every one camshaft/distributor rotation on a four-stroke engine; here is an animation.
I can't say for sure, however, this head had a bent valve stem. I had to get it out by cutting the valve face off. There was also a crack in the top of the valve guide from the deformed valve being pushed into it. The head was sold to me by as "needing a valve job." (the tech decided to go 2FE, on his girlfriend's '82 60, obtaining parts, straight pushrods and a working head assembly from a 3FE) My best guess is that he fired cylinder #6 on the exhaust stroke; could the pressure in the cylinder been so great that it slammed the valve shut against the force of the camshaft and rocker arm? The alternative assumption is physical damage in handling, after already deciding on doing the upgrade on a vehicle, which he reminded me, wasn't his.
My suggestion is to not do guesswork regarding timing; you can dial-it-in to tune it, but no major guesswork.