Is anyone's rear door their jerry can holder? (2 Viewers)

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Hipsterville, Brooklyn, NY
Hey,

I was thinking about eliminating the need for a swing thing for a bumper and just welding a rack for the jerry cans on one of my rear barn doors.

Anyone else done this?

Edin
 
Thats a fair amount of weight hanging from the doors... hope youre welds are good and strong especially if you do alot of wheeling.
I would not do that your door will probably start to sag as well as squeek alot.
By the way what year is it does it have tail gate or barn doors.
 
Well i've got a 72 so it's got the barn doors. Doing that to the tailgate wouldn't really make sense because when it drops down...well...goodbye cans
 
I have seen it done, and it did not seem to affect the alignment of the door. For the most part the cans travel empty, just for show. If they only travel with gas on the occasional excursion, the net effect would take a long time to show.

Have you considered mounting a second, plate type tire carrier on the other side of the truck to match the stock 72 on the pass side? I've seen that used as well, and it's a lot sturdier than the barn door for that weight.

Best

Mark A.
 
I have access to some free tubing from a neighbor and some potentially free jerry cans...

I don't carry a spare and my carrier was rusted through when I bought it so i tossed it. I'm just looking to go the most economical route right now.
 
Well i've got a 72 so it's got the barn doors. Doing that to the tailgate wouldn't really make sense because when it drops down...well...goodbye cans

Yep thats why I was asking sometimes people don't think through their ideas

Depending how you use your Cruiser M/t cans may add to the look but heading into the back country I would never go with m/t tanks.
 
if you get another tire carrier then it can be like this :)
oem spare tire jerry can.jpg
 
The PO of mine did this its attached to the body on each side.
DSC00468.JPG
 
I have seen it done, and it did not seem to affect the alignment of the door. For the most part the cans travel empty, just for show. If they only travel with gas on the occasional excursion, the net effect would take a long time to show.

Have you considered mounting a second, plate type tire carrier on the other side of the truck to match the stock 72 on the pass side? I've seen that used as well, and it's a lot sturdier than the barn door for that weight.

Best

Mark A.
The problem I see with this logic is that when you do carry them full it will likely be on rougher roads so there will be more stress. Maybe it's just me but I'm more afraid of an empty gas can than a full one so I doubt I'd carry empties around for show.


I like the second OEM tire carrier idea best, if my body weren't so rusted I think that's what I would be doing.
 
check out my rig of the week I think I have some pictures of my jerry can. I drilled 4 holes in my swing out tailgate and backed it with a 1/4" steel plate. Ran 4 Grade 8 bolts through it and have not had a problem with it. I do use cloth bungees on it to keep it tight to the rear doors and reduce wiggles and such. 2 years no problems yet.
 
I carried a full 5 gal gas can in a GI can carrier mounted to the left barn door on my 68 FJ40 for over 15 years with no issues other than rattles. Door/hinges are plenty strong.

See post 96:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/252729-fj40-pics-back-day-70s-80s-4.html

i guess i should clarify...my rear doors were rusty and bondo....they didn't hold....because of the rattling. as said the hinges are strong...but...if the door is rusty like the rest of the rig your describing it will probably come apart also. :meh:
 
Use a rack system for my 2 cans and spare that uses the OEM carrier hinges and latch.

rack1.jpg

rack2.jpg
rack2.jpg
rack1.jpg
 
phrogg4evr that is a sweet setup! Did u refurbish the OEM hinges or anything? and did u re-enforce inside the tub due to the added weight? NICE!
 
I used the OEM hinges off my spare tire carrier, they were in pretty good shape, so no refurb was needed.

With re-enforcing the tub, I have an aluminum tub, so it was plenty thick to support that, and the weight is split pretty evenly between the hinges and the latch hook when it is closed.

Outside of that, it was a frame make out of some square tubing, with theOEM hinges and latch, the OEM tire carrier and 2 ConFerr can carriers bolted to it.

If I was to make a new one, I'd use thicker tubing for the frame. The tubing is a little warped in a few spots as the years have gone by, but not so bad that is effects the structural integrity:meh:
 
I've got a double jerrycan carrier bolted to my rear door.

The rear door is a single-piece swing out type.

The carrier is bolted to a couple of plates on either side of the door and I've yet to encounter any sag.

Here are some pics of mine:

DSC_3863.jpg

towbar1.jpg

DSC_3861.jpg

DSC_3702.jpg


I have done some wheeling with no damage or sagging, but I'm planning on modifying a stock spare tyre carrier and adding a third jerrycan.
 
This was a proto type carrier I was working on 30 yrs ago. My daughter kissed a tree with the hardtop/amby doors, so I went to drop downtailgate and softop. I used stock mounts for the tire carrier, one still attached, and gate hinges welded to a plate that I attached to the door. Used two confer can holders, one still attached. The carrier is double hinged to allow the amby door to be opened. Worked excellent for the time I had it on. Would have built a cleaner carrier if a tree hadn't got in the way. Built it with the hinges so you can still open the amby door from the inside. Opps, just reread the post and realized you were talking barn doors. However this type carrier would work with barndoors also.
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