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- Thread starter stellz996
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I would say it doesn't look unusual because the body is level and paint matched underneath the step. But more importantly, there's definitely more clearance around the wheels and on the side of the body with them removed. For me, this is definitely worth the slight loss of convenience from the factory step. The rocker panels are nice but expensive at $700+ a pair so I am going without them for now.
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The mini-sliders are twin steel bars and are pretty stout. They cover about 2/3rds of the body. Wish they just went and protected the entire side, it would just be a small amount more steel and a few more welds but that's Mr. T's cost cutting.
- Thread starter
- #64
250 each for panels here plus painting and fitting
lrowe_csp
Too many cruisers, not enough time
What did you figure out about the intermittent knock that you reported after the rebuild?
How's the seat of the pants feel on the power of the rebuild?
How's the seat of the pants feel on the power of the rebuild?
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- #66
i had to scrap the original motor, the one i have now is more then rebuult, its top to bottom remanufactured.
it sounds like a belt or pulley tick or exhaust manifold leak, loudest when cold and gets softer when warm but still there.
changed oil and filter at 1000km and 7000km and couldnt see any obvious particles in the oil. too seperate mechanics (one being the guy who installed it) couldnt tell me wat it was but said it wasnt serious. hoping just something small and not important
it sounds like a belt or pulley tick or exhaust manifold leak, loudest when cold and gets softer when warm but still there.
changed oil and filter at 1000km and 7000km and couldnt see any obvious particles in the oil. too seperate mechanics (one being the guy who installed it) couldnt tell me wat it was but said it wasnt serious. hoping just something small and not important
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- #68
do you have photos of yours
I believe the spring diameter is the same but the free height is different. I think 100 springs are taller.
(New RW Rings ordered, waiting on them to arrive). Going to rustproof and paint the steel bars black. Also going to trim front and rear tupperware bumpers. The wings on the front bumper and entire rear are both lower than they need to be.
Oooooh thank you. I’m so tempted to just remove mine after chewing them up on the rocks. But I couldn’t find anyone else who had.
Doesn’t look that bad without them does it? My LX is black.
- Thread starter
- #74
wat are these rings you speak of
They are polished rings that bolt on to the wheels to protect the bead and valve stem. Someone on here offered me $220 for a set of 4, which I felt was a fair price so I sold them. Markuson and TonyP vouched for them, so I recently bought them again from Amazon (better price than I could get them for at work).
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Yes, fake beadlocks, which put me off on them in the first place. But they still protect the bead and valve stem. The mounting surface of the wheels have the potential to corrode after a while as seen here,
so I'm going to cover the surface with anti seize compound.
so I'm going to cover the surface with anti seize compound.
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It is a week 1 mod for sure. You won't miss the low hanging plastic POSs.
One favor to ask. Can you grab a photo from the side profile? I Crawled around under mine and can’t get a sense of how much of the AHC hardware is visible.
- Thread starter
- #80
so whike down south, got stuck on the brach, and trying to get the car out i briefly lost drive to the wheels in low range, and along with that the engine still decides to cut out after hard accelaration in soft spits the minute i left of the throttle.
this is pissing me off as i thought wed fixed it, pkease someone give me ideas
this is pissing me off as i thought wed fixed it, pkease someone give me ideas
