If you're unfamiliar with the starter rebuild process, there are several good YouTube vids on how it's done. Good idea to watch one or two before attempting, so you'll know what to look for.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Intermittent Starting Issues - FJ60
- Thread starter FJ60FINN
- Start date
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Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
I have had good results using the OReilly's "import direct" line of parts. The "mastercraft" line is cheaper... and you get what you pay for.
OReilly's has a start repair kit "out on the aisle" that has a selection of solenoid contacts and o rings and such. This has the correct contacts that you need for this starter for just a few bucks. There are more comprehensive rebuild kits that can be found, but odds are all you need are the contacts.
Personally, if it is under warranty... I would use the warranty. Get a new starter BUT, open the solenoid and make sure the contacts are true before you install it. Only takes a few minutes and almost every aftermarket starter will benefit from this tiny adjustment.
Mark...
That's my plan, to pull out my starter and take it to them to bench test to get it replaced. I'm wondering if it's going to bench test okay because it always starts no problem from cold. If so, I'll buy this kit and do it that way. I'll make sure to do these recommended adjustments if it gets replaced under warranty.
Mark W
Yep, I really don't really care that much I guess.
Your comment about the stater being more likely to fail to function when it is hot, tossed up a flag for me for a possibility that I kinda skipped over because it is much less common. Worn solenoid contacts are the primary cause of intermittent failure to start. However this will usually show the first signs of trouble when the starter is cold. Especially when it is actually cold (winter weather not just "not hot". Up here it is an every year thing at the shop as fall comes to an end, I see rigs showing up with no-start issues.
A less common, but not unknown cause of intermittent failure to start can be voltage drop to the starter solenoid. The solenoid activation wire does not need to carry heavy current. However it *could* stand to be a step up in size, even for the current it does draw. as well, the current has to get to the ignition switch and, as importantly, *through* the ignition switch. Over time the contacts in the ignition switch *can* degrade enough to cause a bit more resistance and therefore voltage drop across the switch.
When these factors combine in just the wrong way on an older rig, the result can be that the voltage reaching the solenoid is just barely enough to power the electromagnetic coil that pulls the plunger to close the high amp circuit for the starter motor. Sometimes it makes solid enough contact to flow thee current needed, sometimes it doesn't. Worse of course when the contacts are anything less then ideal due to wear (or the aforementioned less than perfect alignment). We have been seeing this more in the '80 series rigs than the older rigs, probably just due to the more complex wiring.
There are a couple of work arounds to address this issue. The simplest is to install an old school push to start button in parallel with the ignition switch. this bypasses the ignition switch and eliminates the possibility of a worn switch contributing to the problem. Run the power to this switch and from it to a the solenoid with a 14, or better yet, 12 gauge wire to completely ensure good current to the solenoid.
Of course you want to make sure you do not hit the start button accidentally when the engine is running. Nasty gnashing noise will occur.
Not likely to cause bad damage, but still it ain't good to do. A better way is to add a relay into the circuit for the solenoid, so that the ignition switch activates the relay and the relay supplies 12v straight from the battery to energize the solenoid.
It is extremely simple, but if you have never messed with this sort of stuff, there are a couple of write ups in the '80s forum from guys who have done it.
I am not much at searching the forums here but a quick try got me this thread. Starter ignition circuit thought - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/starter-ignition-circuit-thought.211786/
There are probably others to be found too. And I think there might be a couple of the smaller vendors selling "kits". You really do not need to get a kit, but it does simplify it all if wiring just ain't your thing.
Anyway, take a look at your solenoid contacts and consider preemptively adding in a relay and you will never need to even think about your starter again for years and years.
Mark...
Wiring just ain't my thing, but I'll be searching the forum for a good walk through on what you've described here. I have a couple wiring projects (non critical) that I've been avoiding and this seems like a perfect opportunity to begin my education.Your comment about the stater being more likely to fail to function when it is hot, tossed up a flag for me for a possibility that I kinda skipped over because it is much less common. Worn solenoid contacts are the primary cause of intermittent failure to start. However this will usually show the first signs of trouble when the starter is cold. Especially when it is actually cold (winter weather not just "not hot". Up here it is an every year thing at the shop as fall comes to an end, I see rigs showing up with no-start issues.
A less common, but not unknown cause of intermittent failure to start can be voltage drop to the starter solenoid. The solenoid activation wire does not need to carry heavy current. However it *could* stand to be a step up in size, even for the current it does draw. as well, the current has to get to the ignition switch and, as importantly, *through* the ignition switch. Over time the contacts in the ignition switch *can* degrade enough to cause a bit more resistance and therefore voltage drop across the switch.
When these factors combine in just the wrong way on an older rig, the result can be that the voltage reaching the solenoid is just barely enough to power the electromagnetic coil that pulls the plunger to close the high amp circuit for the starter motor. Sometimes it makes solid enough contact to flow thee current needed, sometimes it doesn't. Worse of course when the contacts are anything less then ideal due to wear (or the aforementioned less than perfect alignment). We have been seeing this more in the '80 series rigs than the older rigs, probably just due to the more complex wiring.
There are a couple of work arounds to address this issue. The simplest is to install an old school push to start button in parallel with the ignition switch. this bypasses the ignition switch and eliminates the possibility of a worn switch contributing to the problem. Run the power to this switch and from it to a the solenoid with a 14, or better yet, 12 gauge wire to completely ensure good current to the solenoid.
Of course you want to make sure you do not hit the start button accidentally when the engine is running. Nasty gnashing noise will occur.
A better way is to add a relay into the circuit for the solenoid, so that the ignition switch activates the relay and the relay supplies 12v straight from the battery to energize the solenoid.
It is extremely simple, but if you have never messed with this sort of stuff, there are a couple of write ups in the '80s forum from guys who have done it.
I am not much at searching the forums here but a quick try got me this thread. Starter ignition circuit thought - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/starter-ignition-circuit-thought.211786/
There are probably others to be found too. And I think there might be a couple of the smaller vendors selling "kits". You really do not need to get a kit, but it does simplify it all if wiring just ain't your thing.
Anyway, take a look at your solenoid contacts and consider preemptively adding in a relay and you will never need to even think about your starter again for years and years.
Mark...
I'll post again once I've gotten to the bottom of this starting issue. Again thanks for the insight.
