intermittent stalling carb?

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Matt60

Matt60

KiSS of Death
Joined
Aug 24, 2005
Threads
38
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664
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www.queencitycycles.com
long of the short my truck dies often or it doesn't. while driving under what i know as normal operation i'll feel a slight stall-hiccup in the gas pedal and know when i go to clutch it will die. so i pull the choke out a click and a half and it will idle roughly but stay running. after i'm back driving i'll push in the choke and go on with no problems other than its a little rough at city speeds. then i'll feel the stall-hiccup in the pedal again and its back to normal for how long it last there is no way to tell. its getting old.
my carb has been de-smoged by jim c. i've had the normal bottom of the manifold crack welded even taken it to a shop and asked them to check it out and it runs out fine for them like it should. just looking for some clues any help would be great thanks

83 fj60 with a 2f
 
I'm also dealing with a stall out issue while driving under normal conditions. I thought it was a fuel starvation problem so I just got done dropped and cleaned my tank, replaced fuel pickup, blew all the fuel lines out, new OEM fuel filter, new OEM gas cap, and new fuel pump. It ran great for a few weeks. Thought I had the problem licked but driving home tonight and it deciced to stall out. I coasted for a little bit trying to resart several times; but dropped it in 4th and caught it in gear. It ran great the rest of the way home. This is enough to drive you nuts because it isn't a constant problem.:bang: Mike
 
when i do go to restart it starts just fine sits at idle or there above for a second then i watch the tac just fall like i shut the truck off, but with out using the key to do so.
this may sound odd but more than once i've stuck a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator for heat reasons while the cardboard was in place this problem seemed to happen less often now that i don't understand. i've been fighting this for several years. i wonder some times if i got something out of place on my desmog
 
beaufort-fj60 said:
I think a bad brake booster will rob vacuum... makes it run crappy in stop and go traffic.
Click to expand...

So, it's probably time to hook up a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold (where the brake booster and A/C idle up vacuum come from) and see what the manifold pressure is. You could also plug the brake booster vacuum hose and see if it improves the idle and prevent stalling on deceleration.
 
hank14 said:
So, it's probably time to hook up a vacuum gauge to the intake manifold (where the brake booster and A/C idle up vacuum come from) and see what the manifold pressure is. You could also plug the brake booster vacuum hose and see if it improves the idle and prevent stalling on deceleration.
Click to expand...

I have a "worn out" brake booster on my 60. It runs the same as he described above... sometimes okay, sometimes you have to drive with one hand on the choke. I have some other mechanical issues I'm ironing out, but sometimes hitting the brakes will kill the vacuum and the idle drops to nothing. I have a vac gauge connected to the intake, makes it a little easier to see fluctuations in the vacuum.

edit comment... I do not have the dizzy advance connected.. but I'm at sea level so it not that critical in my case.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/172530-fj60-distributor-vacuum-question.html
 
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Matt60 said:
could this be why my brakes feel hard every once and a while. what type of fix should be in order new OEM toyota brake booster?
Click to expand...

I'm not a booster expert... I think when it does not get vacuum the peddle is hard. When the booster is worn out the brakes are real flaky....
 
FJ40Jim said:
It sounds like the ICS is turning off.

Try hotwiring the ICS and driving. If symptom is gone, then track down problem in ICS control system.
Click to expand...

hey Jim.. if the wrong vac line is connected to the ICS vac port... will that "flake out" the ICS? Or does the ICS only "flake out" if the electronics are out of order. I hope that made sense..:doh:
fuel.webp
 
Last edited:
mine would do the exact same thing but it was when it just started warming up but not warmed up. have to pull the choke when the rpms start to drop. but then when it gets all the way to operating temp its fine.
lately since its warming up in the mornings a little i have had no problem at all. very puzzling
 
i had the same problem today. started and ran fine for about 20-25 miles, then i got off the freeway and the rough idle started. dropped down to about 200-300rpms when i would stop at a light. she sat all day and did the same damn thing when i got in to go home. well, as anyone who's had this problem knows it can be very frustrating. my solution, slam the skinny pedal to the floor at the next light. ran her up to about 4Krpms and she ran fine the rest of the way home. it worked today but i'm hoping to find a more permanent solution to the problem eventually. between this and the 11.5mpgs i get i'm thinking more and more about giving aintscared a shot at dropping a 350 in her.
 
hey Jim.. if the wrong vac line is connected to the ICS vac port... will that "flake out" the ICS? Or does the ICS only "flake out" if the electronics are out of order. I hope that made sense..:doh:
Click to expand...
First problem is there is a fishing line in your carb.:D

Second problem is the fishing line is not routed correctly from main body down into throttle body. Should go straight down into other hole, instead of the zig-zag.

The ICS will definitely act weird when the wrong vac hose is connected. It takes a certain vacuum signal to enable/disable decel fuel cut.
 
FJ40Jim said:
First problem is there is a fishing line in your carb.:D

Second problem is the fishing line is not routed correctly from main body down into throttle body. Should go straight down into other hole, instead of the zig-zag.

The ICS will definitely act weird when the wrong vac hose is connected. It takes a certain vacuum signal to enable/disable decel fuel cut.
Click to expand...

lol.. that's carb floss.. :grinpimp:
 
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