intercooler installation tips ?
- Thread starter juzzydykes75
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
This set up on the 3 liter Nissan Patrol seems to work very well. The seal does not look spectacular but it all seems to work well. They seem more reliable than the equivalent 3 liter Toyota motor in the Hilux.
BJ40 3B said:the 70 series Cruiser in the previous photo it's not mine, it's from a friend, and yes, I think the intercooler it's from a Mitsubishi Montero (in Portugal it's a Pajero, in UK it's a Shogun and in Spain it's a Montero).
I also have an Intercooler from a Mitsubishi (Pajero/Montero DID i think) fitted in my 40series, which from memory is bigger than the intercooler from the "normal" Montero but without the electric fan, because it's mounted in the front of the water cooler, and don't have space for the fan!
About the rubber that seals the intercooler against the hood, i think it was from the same vehicle, as all this parts were bought in some auto-wrecker.
The following photo is from my coiled sprung BJ40, turboe'd and intercooled.
Nice.. Can you speak a little more about your coil spring set up?
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Threads
- 558
- Messages
- 8,123
- Location
- Kamloops, BC Canada
- Website
- www.shopraddcruisers.ca
Ya, same question, did you use the yota axles?
Rob
Rob
dieselcruiserhead said:
Yes, they are the original axles from the BJ40.
At the front i used 2 LandRover Radius Arms, and a custom made panhard rod.
At the rear i also used the LR Trailing Arms and the upper triangle, which makes a very good 4link suspension. The original LR Trailing arms, have bent on the first days of testing, so had to make some new home made heavy-duty ones!
For the springs, they are also original LR.
Basically, its a BJ40 with complete LR suspension and some mods, such as: 4wheel disc-brake (LR brake in the rear because they work good, easy instalation and can be found very cheap), 3B engine with turbo, intercooler, oil cooler, Toyota power steeering, Rancho 9000 allround, welded rear diff, front ARB, roll-bar used as an air tank, Warn 8274, Optima Yellow Top battery, 35inch tyre(they a remoulds, and they are actually 37 inch tall and are a copy of Simex Extreme Trekker)...........
For the suspension, i'm very happy with the rear axle. For the front i'm still thinking for something simple that could give more articulation (i can lift one wheel 80 to 90cm from the ground without lifting the other 3, but almost all the "work" is done by the rear axle) .if someone have any idea of how to get more articulation of a 3link please let me know! Overall, i think i'ts very capable offroad vehicle, and also onroad (despite the welded rear diferential).
At the front i used 2 LandRover Radius Arms, and a custom made panhard rod.
At the rear i also used the LR Trailing Arms and the upper triangle, which makes a very good 4link suspension. The original LR Trailing arms, have bent on the first days of testing, so had to make some new home made heavy-duty ones!
For the springs, they are also original LR.
Basically, its a BJ40 with complete LR suspension and some mods, such as: 4wheel disc-brake (LR brake in the rear because they work good, easy instalation and can be found very cheap), 3B engine with turbo, intercooler, oil cooler, Toyota power steeering, Rancho 9000 allround, welded rear diff, front ARB, roll-bar used as an air tank, Warn 8274, Optima Yellow Top battery, 35inch tyre(they a remoulds, and they are actually 37 inch tall and are a copy of Simex Extreme Trekker)...........
For the suspension, i'm very happy with the rear axle. For the front i'm still thinking for something simple that could give more articulation (i can lift one wheel 80 to 90cm from the ground without lifting the other 3, but almost all the "work" is done by the rear axle) .if someone have any idea of how to get more articulation of a 3link please let me know! Overall, i think i'ts very capable offroad vehicle, and also onroad (despite the welded rear diferential).
The issue with your 3link setup are this .. mean thing. 3 link. If you go with 4 linkl .. maybe you get a lots more flex .. but I need to ask .. why not TLC II ( RJ-70 or LJ-70 ) control arms .. ?
Other option are custom control arms ( as comes in a Slee 6" lift kit ) with heim joints for more flex .. the rubber has less flex in this aplication.
Other option are custom control arms ( as comes in a Slee 6" lift kit ) with heim joints for more flex .. the rubber has less flex in this aplication.
If I had to guess with the front, it's the radius arms that are the problem. If you could put a "wrist" in one of them it would flex a lot more (but at the expense of roll on road). If you build radius arms out of tube, on the driver's side make the top axle attachment removable. That way you'd get the solid suspension on the road and the flex off road.
Keep your ideas comming....
Advent, when you said "If you build radius arms out of tube, on the driver's side make the top axle attachment removable", were you talking about something like this? (this photo is from an 80 series that was on the hardcore secction of IH8MUD)
I have tried this mod by removing the front bolt in the radius arm at the axle on the passenger side (and it gets more flex). does it make any difference to remove the bolt in the front or rear of the axle or on driver side or passenger side?
What do you mean by a "wrist"?
If possible, post photos of your ideas to help me improve my front flex!
Thanks
Advent, when you said "If you build radius arms out of tube, on the driver's side make the top axle attachment removable", were you talking about something like this? (this photo is from an 80 series that was on the hardcore secction of IH8MUD)
I have tried this mod by removing the front bolt in the radius arm at the axle on the passenger side (and it gets more flex). does it make any difference to remove the bolt in the front or rear of the axle or on driver side or passenger side?
What do you mean by a "wrist"?
If possible, post photos of your ideas to help me improve my front flex!
Thanks
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 28, 2002
- Threads
- 558
- Messages
- 8,123
- Location
- Kamloops, BC Canada
- Website
- www.shopraddcruisers.ca
Check into the hardcore area, there is a thread on a a80 series with sick articulation.
Three link with radius arm.
Three link with radius arm.
dieselcruiserhead said:
Toyota does have intercooled turbo diesels. The 100 series turbo diesel has one. The Land Cruiser Prado turbo diesel has one.
Intercoolers do work they just need to be set up right. The intercooler has to be the correct size for the job. One of the reasons top mounts are used is to reduce the length of plumbing between the turbo and intake valve to reduce turbo lag(as opposed to a front mount).
a turbo setup with an intercooler, provides aprox 20 - 30 HP more ( it depends on apliocation ) so don't make sence to me, have more and better performance without intercooler.
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2006
- Threads
- 17
- Messages
- 436
- Location
- Ballarat, Victoria, Australia
- Website
- www.team4g.com
The point of the intercooler isn't the extra power/torque. It's reduced charge air temperature which leads to reduced combustion temperature and longer engine life.
THAT is why you fit an intercooler.
Also, length of plumbing has been proven OVER AND OVER AND OVER again to have a total possible lag increase/decrease of 0.25 seconds across the metre or so of extra pipe. Those of you who are versed in physics can do the flow calculations yourself.
Intercooled Turbo's last longer than nonintercooled. They perform better and are less stressed. Everything is more durable. Mount the intercooler to the front, it doesn't have to be huge like the performance boys and the ricers but a standard intercooler off say an USSPEC Galant VR4 (OR JDM spec), or something of a similar size will be fine for you application. Pipework should be the same size as your throttle body.
THAT is why you fit an intercooler.
Also, length of plumbing has been proven OVER AND OVER AND OVER again to have a total possible lag increase/decrease of 0.25 seconds across the metre or so of extra pipe. Those of you who are versed in physics can do the flow calculations yourself.
Intercooled Turbo's last longer than nonintercooled. They perform better and are less stressed. Everything is more durable. Mount the intercooler to the front, it doesn't have to be huge like the performance boys and the ricers but a standard intercooler off say an USSPEC Galant VR4 (OR JDM spec), or something of a similar size will be fine for you application. Pipework should be the same size as your throttle body.
Slightly of topic. Have any of you seen the glycol/air intercoolers available over here for 1HZ/1HD-T motors. They look kinda like a hotdog muffler sitting on top of the rocker cover. They come with their own little remote radiator. Supposed to be more efficient than air/air intercoolers.
BJ40 3B said:Some more:
looking at that photo you will not get any exhuast flow thru the turbo.....???whats changed, I see the flange welded on, but did you weld over the outlet? otherwise the exhaust just pours out...
MORE pics needed of your manifold......
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2006
- Threads
- 8
- Messages
- 183
- Location
- Port Stephens, NSW, Australia
- Website
- www.r2clan.com
Intercoolers are definitely beneficial no matter what application they are applied to whether it be diesel or a gasser.
However of the 2 types I would consider water to air to be better for a diesel application based solely on the speed that 4wd's usually do. Air to air really only starts to work properly just like a radiator does over 70km/hr. In fact they are more efficient the faster you go and quite often you need to go over the speed limit to get the best benefit from them such as over 120km/hr.
Considering some of the fourbying I do like beach work where I rarely ever get over 70km/hr and can be using max throttle and really pushing the 3B hard a water to air would be a lot more efficient for this application.
Here is a pic of PWR water to air intercoolers as mentioned above they use a barrel style setup with separator radiator/pump resevoir etc.
Here's the details on the kits/prices:
http://www.pwr.com.au/pwr/index.asp
Air to air wise top mounts aren't worth it. They get heatsoak in no time. The only benefit is the short IC pipework aiding in good throttle response and less lag. VR4 IC's are good too as already suggested, though my personal preference for used IC's are Nissan GTR good for 300rwkw. Also truck IC's are good and you can get them cut down to suit and are very cheap as well.
However of the 2 types I would consider water to air to be better for a diesel application based solely on the speed that 4wd's usually do. Air to air really only starts to work properly just like a radiator does over 70km/hr. In fact they are more efficient the faster you go and quite often you need to go over the speed limit to get the best benefit from them such as over 120km/hr.
Considering some of the fourbying I do like beach work where I rarely ever get over 70km/hr and can be using max throttle and really pushing the 3B hard a water to air would be a lot more efficient for this application.
Here is a pic of PWR water to air intercoolers as mentioned above they use a barrel style setup with separator radiator/pump resevoir etc.
Here's the details on the kits/prices:
http://www.pwr.com.au/pwr/index.asp
Air to air wise top mounts aren't worth it. They get heatsoak in no time. The only benefit is the short IC pipework aiding in good throttle response and less lag. VR4 IC's are good too as already suggested, though my personal preference for used IC's are Nissan GTR good for 300rwkw. Also truck IC's are good and you can get them cut down to suit and are very cheap as well.
look at this if you like it. it is a volvo intercooler. At the end it will have a electric fan for pulling cold air from air bonnet, EGR and original air collectors connected with EGR will be removed. i'm making it by myself step by step with big calm..... i can't afford to make mistakes...
go to: http://album.foto.alice.it/andreape/965796
go to: http://album.foto.alice.it/andreape/965796
Last edited: