Installing OME Caster Correction Bushings

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A little follow up. Pressed in the OME CC bushings using alignment marks from the plumb bob method. Castor measured at 1.80 and 1.86 degrees at each side. So I got them installed fairly even. Problem is that the steering wheel is very sluggish returning to center after a turn, to the point where I need to help it along manually. So I started questioning the bushing install and ordered Landtank's template. I'm certainly off but is it enough where I should risk pressing out and reinstalling the bushings? I've heard accounts of bushings being destroyed on removal and don't have the funds for new ones. Any advice welcome.


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I started with the correction bushings but didn't get enough caster with a 2.5-3" lift so I swapped them out for OEM bushings and LandTank correction plates. Tracks pretty straight now and caster numbers are much better. Many accounts on here of people not being happy with the bushings. I know this doesn't answer your question directly but if you're considering pushing them out and back in you may want to consider the plates.
 
I started with the correction bushings but didn't get enough caster with a 2.5-3" lift so I swapped them out for OEM bushings and LandTank correction plates. Tracks pretty straight now and caster numbers are much better. Many accounts on here of people not being happy with the bushings. I know this doesn't answer your question directly but if you're considering pushing them out and back in you may want to consider the plates.

Thanks, I'll keep the brackets as an option down the road. Probably should've considered this option more strongly knowing that the CC bushings had some dissenters here on mud.
 
Guess I'm really curious about how much potential there is to gain by reinstalling the OME bushings. Is 3 degrees castor even realistic with CC bushings?
 
I just did my OME bushings with tough dog 2" kit. I got them 7.25" center to center with the front one as "up" as seemed reasonable. I have the decel grinding sounds now, so I'm sure something is not quite exactly right, but I don't know that it's worth it to press out and reinstall the OMEs.

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A little follow up. Pressed in the OME CC bushings using alignment marks from the plumb bob method. Castor measured at 1.80 and 1.86 degrees at each side. So I got them installed fairly even. Problem is that the steering wheel is very sluggish returning to center after a turn, to the point where I need to help it along manually. So I started questioning the bushing install and ordered Landtank's template. I'm certainly off but is it enough where I should risk pressing out and reinstalling the bushings? I've heard accounts of bushings being destroyed on removal and don't have the funds for new ones. Any advice welcome.


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Where did you get that template?
 
The caster bushings have a lot of drawbacks. First, they typically fall short in providing enough correction to get caster back in spec. Second, they fail rather quickly and need to be replaced.

Once I came up with my 2.5” plates they became a more popular solution since they provided the proper amount of caster correction and retained the factory bushings. While in the short term they were more expensive in the long term they were cheaper and less of a hassle

It’s been years since anyone has asked about the templates.
 
The caster bushings have a lot of drawbacks. First, they typically fall short in providing enough correction to get caster back in spec. Second, they fail rather quickly and need to be replaced.

Once I came up with my 2.5” plates they became a more popular solution since they provided the proper amount of caster correction and retained the factory bushings. While in the short term they were more expensive in the long term they were cheaper and less of a hassle

It’s been years since anyone has asked about the templates.
i guess my ARB CC bushings installed in 1999 must have been made on a Thursday :)
 
The caster bushings have a lot of drawbacks. First, they typically fall short in providing enough correction to get caster back in spec. Second, they fail rather quickly and need to be replaced.

Once I came up with my 2.5” plates they became a more popular solution since they provided the proper amount of caster correction and retained the factory bushings. While in the short term they were more expensive in the long term they were cheaper and less of a hassle

It’s been years since anyone has asked about the templates.
I am in the process of restoring my 80 from the ground up with a 3” lift. Temporarily was just going to get these bushings in then replace later. Short term just want to get this thing drivable.

To your response, those plates will they work with a 3”?
 
I am in the process of restoring my 80 from the ground up with a 3” lift. Temporarily was just going to get these bushings in then replace later. Short term just want to get this thing drivable.

To your response, those plates will they work with a 3”?
Nevermind i just looked in your site and read the details :-). Hmmm this looks like the better route.
 
I am in the process of restoring my 80 from the ground up with a 3” lift. Temporarily was just going to get these bushings in then replace later. Short term just want to get this thing drivable.

To your response, those plates will they work with a 3”?
If it’s actually a 3” lift. The weight of the truck will influence the final amount of lift. It’s best to build everything out and check the final height. Measure from the hub center to the underside of the fender/flare and subtract 20.5. If the answer is 3 or less they will work and you should be within factory caster specs.
 

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