Installing new head unit. Need help!
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Metra 70-8113 was the one I bought from Besy Buy. It was the one I used first and kept the amp in play.
I installed 70-8116 last night. It includes 2 harnesses. One for behind the radio, the other near the amp.
Couple of notes and issues still.
1. The harness at the radio end does not include the illumination wire. I had to cut into the car side of the OEM harness and splice that wire to the head unit's wire.
2. When you disconnect the two connectors from the amp, you lose connectivity through your amp for all of the power required for the head unit. This requires you to jumper the switched and unswitched power at those connectors so your radio harness has live power. This is also the case for the illumination signal, but that didn't dawn on me until I buttoned the whole thing up at 4AM. I'll have to get under the seat again tonight to jumper that wire. It wouldn't be that hard for Metra to also provide two male connectors that were jumpered such that you didn't need to cut into the factory wiring.
3. I didn't get the sub working. The new harness came with 4 wires for the sub. My head unit had 8 wires for the speakers, but none for the sub. The HU also has 5 RCA jacks, one for sub, the others for speakers. Since the wire harness was easier to splice to bare wires, I chose that for the speakers. No problem there. I spliced the left and right sub wires into one RCA jack and plugged that into the sub connector. No sub.
The good news is there is no hiss. I'll have to troubleshoot the sub and get the illumination working right, but otherwise, all done.
Thanks for all of the help.
I installed 70-8116 last night. It includes 2 harnesses. One for behind the radio, the other near the amp.
Couple of notes and issues still.
1. The harness at the radio end does not include the illumination wire. I had to cut into the car side of the OEM harness and splice that wire to the head unit's wire.
2. When you disconnect the two connectors from the amp, you lose connectivity through your amp for all of the power required for the head unit. This requires you to jumper the switched and unswitched power at those connectors so your radio harness has live power. This is also the case for the illumination signal, but that didn't dawn on me until I buttoned the whole thing up at 4AM. I'll have to get under the seat again tonight to jumper that wire. It wouldn't be that hard for Metra to also provide two male connectors that were jumpered such that you didn't need to cut into the factory wiring.
3. I didn't get the sub working. The new harness came with 4 wires for the sub. My head unit had 8 wires for the speakers, but none for the sub. The HU also has 5 RCA jacks, one for sub, the others for speakers. Since the wire harness was easier to splice to bare wires, I chose that for the speakers. No problem there. I spliced the left and right sub wires into one RCA jack and plugged that into the sub connector. No sub.
The good news is there is no hiss. I'll have to troubleshoot the sub and get the illumination working right, but otherwise, all done.
Thanks for all of the help.
My Levinson head unit just got replaced today. The weird part is that the factory is only a 2 channel output from the Head unit, then 5 channels out from the amp, yet somehow had a fader control.. Hmm. With the Beat Sonic adapter, I have all 9 speakers working with an aftermarket head unit and stock speakers and amp. (For Now)
I know this is an old topic, but for me very helpfull.
Last Saturday I wanted to connect the speaker wires from the factory amplifier to the new after market head unit to get rid of the hiss.
Whwen disconnecting either of the two connectors on the factory amplifer, there is no power to the head unit. When checking the wiring diagram it indeed showed that the power and ACC goes from the amplifier to the head unit if you use the factory wiring loom, which I do.
So now I have to rewire the power to the head unit. It will take more time then aticipated.
Last Saturday I wanted to connect the speaker wires from the factory amplifier to the new after market head unit to get rid of the hiss.
Whwen disconnecting either of the two connectors on the factory amplifer, there is no power to the head unit. When checking the wiring diagram it indeed showed that the power and ACC goes from the amplifier to the head unit if you use the factory wiring loom, which I do.
So now I have to rewire the power to the head unit. It will take more time then aticipated.
There is a power in and power out at the amplifier. Tie them together.
Looking at the wiring diagram, I can see the following:
Pin A2: ACC. IN, amplifier in from 15A cigar fuse
Pin B7: +B, amplifier in from 20A radio fuse
Pin B16: +B, amplifier in from 20A radio fuse
Pin A1: AMP+
Pin A9: ACC. OUT
Pin A3: +B
I understand that I have to connect A2 (ACC.IN) to A9 (ACC. OUT) and B7 (+B) to A3 (+B) to get battery power and ACC power to the head unit.
Why are there 2 x +B in on the amplifier?
What does the AMP+ do? This is a connection between the amplifier, the head unit and the auto antenna control relay.
Pin A2: ACC. IN, amplifier in from 15A cigar fuse
Pin B7: +B, amplifier in from 20A radio fuse
Pin B16: +B, amplifier in from 20A radio fuse
Pin A1: AMP+
Pin A9: ACC. OUT
Pin A3: +B
I understand that I have to connect A2 (ACC.IN) to A9 (ACC. OUT) and B7 (+B) to A3 (+B) to get battery power and ACC power to the head unit.
Why are there 2 x +B in on the amplifier?
What does the AMP+ do? This is a connection between the amplifier, the head unit and the auto antenna control relay.
Why as there is no need for the antenna when the audio is off.
Yay, I am happy, sort of.
I bypassed the amplifier for the front speakers and disconnected the RCAs to the rear.
The annoying nose is gone and the volume is normal. no more high volume even when the setting is at its lowest. The amplifier couldn't handle the un-amplified signal.
Now to do the rear speakers.
I bypassed the amplifier for the front speakers and disconnected the RCAs to the rear.
The annoying nose is gone and the volume is normal. no more high volume even when the setting is at its lowest. The amplifier couldn't handle the un-amplified signal.
Now to do the rear speakers.