Installed New Steering Rack, Wheels (alignment) Will Not be Straight

[meatloaf]

I replaced the worn out steering rack with a new Toyota one, I also replaced the CV axles with some low mileage used ones cause drivers side boot was torn, tie-rod ends and sway bar bushings.

When I was replacing the rack I tried to make sure steering wheel was straight when removing the old one and installing the new one. Now that everything is tightened, the passenger-side toe angle faces in quite a bit, I threaded the tie-rod ends the same amount of turns as the old one and rack seemed straight when it was first put in. Is there a way to correct this Pryor to installing wheels/tires? Did I screw it up?

 

[2001LC]

One thing you need to make sure of, is you've the proper length TRE for your year. 100 series have 2 different lengths of TRE 98-02 vs 03-07.

Toe is adjusted wheels on the ground. It's best to have alignment done after R&P & TRE R&R.

We can measure Toe once on the ground, and adjust. But still we should go in for alignment. Even if toe measures good, center line may be off.

Things that can change toe, just to mention a few:
Non OEM parts old removed vs and or new parts installed variations.
Bushing of rack shot and rack was to one side, at time of last alignment.
Not hitting same thread count, on TRE.

Also if teeth of R&P input shaft to intermediate shaft, off by to many teeth. Steering wheel will be way off center. This is corrected with TRE adjusting. To far off and TRE may run out of threads in attempt to correct. I do a trail fit, before torque in all the bolts. I like to see my TRE thread very close to the same, in the end. But that's me. They can have different thread count from side to side, that's why they have extra threads.

 

[meatloaf]

One thing you need to make sure of, is you've the proper length TRE for your year. 100 series have 2 different lengths of TRE 98-02 vs 03-07.

Toe is adjusted wheels on the ground. It's best to have alignment done after R&P & TRE R&R.

We can measure Toe once on the ground, and adjust. But still we should go in for alignment. Even if toe measures good, center line may be off.

Things that can change toe, just to mention a few:
Non OEM parts old removed vs and or new parts installed variations.
Bushing of rack shot and rack was to one side, at time of last alignment.
Not hitting same thread count, on TRE.

Also if teeth of R&P input shaft to intermediate shaft, off by to many teeth. Steering wheel will be way off center. This is corrected with TRE adjusting. To far off and TRE may run out of threads in attempt to correct. I do a trail fit, before torque in all the bolts. I like to see my TRE thread very close to the same, in the end. But that's me. They can have different thread count from side to side, that's why they have extra threads.

Thanks for the reply @2001LC !

TRE’s were purchased from Kurt @cruiseroutfit and I checked order and it specified the correct ones.

I haven’t lowered the truck with wheels yet cause I wanted too see if I can correct the stated angles somewhat before lowering.

I used @ENGINE er’s thread as a guide How To: Replace your own steering rack - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-replace-your-own-steering-rack.560104/ to do my swap. I freaked out with my end result cause there are multiple mentions in this thread about the rack/splines being off center…

Was planning on having the truck aligned after all this.

 

[2001LC]

Sometime I'll R&R the "splines" (intermediate shaft to input shaft) 2 or 3 time, tying to get steering wheel centered best I can. I do not torque bolts, until I'm satisfied. Paint marks on new rack,. Which sets racks at zero point (inner TRE out equal distance). Really help speed up the processes.

Turning steering wheel level/center, is not necessarily centering racks. So we set new TRE out same number of threads/distance measured earlier (before removing old outer TRE), as a rule of thumb.

To get rack to zero point, without paint marks. I set distance of inner TRE out from rack, and equal distance on each side. I do this with old rack or reman. Then I'd just put TRE on with ~5 thread exposed equally on each side, if I had no thread count (but I also count). Then measure or eye ball and adjust Toe once tires on the ground. Let alignment shop do the rest.

Tip: Remove outer small boot clamps off inner TRE boots, before adjust TOE. It's the inner TRE that spins to adjust toe. Freeing clamp keeps boot from twisting, and inner TRE turns easier.

 

[BigBen97]

Instead of posting new thread I'll piggy back on this.

I had a shop install a new OEM Lexus rack (ordered from Bell Lexus) about a year and a half ago. A few weeks ago I installed new ball joints and TRE (also ordered from Cruiser Outfitters). I decided to have it aligned at the Toyota dealer in case the indy didn't have the setup/install correct. The feedback from the tech was that the rack was not installed properly. I had about 8 threads showing on one side vs. 4 on the other side. He suggested I have the reinstall the rack, i.e recenter the R&P and then have the car re-aligned so the threads are more closely symmetrical.

Is this truly needed?

I doubt the shop would do this as a warranty and past a year anyway. I was thinking I could DIY the change/fix but then I would still be compelled to get the alignment. He also suggested that my spacers were impacting my caster , he didn't get it in spec or even adjust it. I get they want those off and back to OEM for the alignment but I have a hard time seeing an impact on caster, furthermore is caster truly adjustable on our front suspension?

 

[Ayune]

When installing the rack on a vehicle without VGRS (early years) you center the steering wheel via the splines where the intermediate shaft connects to the rack. Ensure the rack is centered (same length protruding on each side), then center the steering wheel with the splines. This process is outlined on p.3 of the instructional .pdf here: How To: Replace your own steering rack - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-replace-your-own-steering-rack.560104/page-17#post-12438238

This ensures wheel full rotation in both directions and minimizes the chance of damaging your clock spring.

 

[2001LC]

Difficult question.

1) I like equal threads, at TRE. With inner TRE centered (rack at zero point) out equal distance. For sure this is best practice!

The connection point at rack input shaft to intermediate shaft, I like very close (with in ~1 splines LH or RH), with steering wheel centered. In LC we know steering wheel is center through column & No2 intermittent shaft when level. Unless someone has R&R steering wheel, out of phase somehow.

With VGRS, we can center steering wheel after assemble, through tech stream. But here's the catch. When is TS level/centering of steering wheel to much. That IDK! But something I'll be looking at. Working on VGRS issue now, where new VGRS actuator (which factory set angle) installed. Steering wheel ended up 145 degrees CW, during assemble. Which indicates old actuator was turned (internally) 145 degrees CCW. Why? How? Was it set during a rack install or steering wheel service, or damage in the actuator. IDK!

TBS for VGRS (03-07LX) snap ring states, when dealing with actuator to upper steering column/assembly:
"matchmarks are not required as VGRS initialization will place the steering wheel in the neutral (center) position."
But still, I've questions on how may degrees of center advisable. Damaging clock spring which VGRS basically has 2 of, is one consideration.

 

[BigBen97]

So in theory, could I move both sides equally where 6 threads were exposed (or at least equal number of turns of the inner TRE) on each side and then center using TS? My main concern was the indy I used wouldn't have the tools to setup the VGRS correctly (not that I know how) and why I went to the Toyota dealer for the alignment. My steering wheel is also slightly turned to the left when going straight down the road. Based on what you're saying this should have been adjusted in TS and I could potentially adjust this on my own in TS.

 

[2001LC]

So in theory, could I move both sides equally where 6 threads were exposed (or at least equal number of turns of the inner TRE) on each side and then center using TS? My main concern was the indy I used wouldn't have the tools to setup the VGRS correctly (not that I know how) and why I went to the Toyota dealer for the alignment. My steering wheel is also slightly turned to the left when going straight down the road. Based on what you're saying this should have been adjusted in TS and I could potentially adjust this on my own in TS.

Short answer YES. Long answer, read above post by me and @Ayune

 

[2001LC]

I'll add: You should also zero point calibrate (ABS) with change in alignment or steering angle (adjusting TRE).

With VGRS you should also initialization, center and calibrate VGRS. VGRS calibration is a long processes, often over looked.

Have fun reading! Note: it gives both when using tech stream and not (with SST wire (paper clip))

 

[BigBen97]

Thanks, looks like page 83 is the start of the fun.

 

[Bisho]

I found it impossible to center the rack and the steering wheel, no matter how hard I tried. I ended up counting how many turns I got in total, then turned to the halfway point so I knew the rack was centered. Then I removed the steering wheel and clock spring and centered them. It actually only takes 10 min to fix the steering wheel.

Even so, at the alignment shop I told them not to center the steering wheel, but adjust the alignment from rack center. I still needed to adjust the steering wheel another 1/8 turn.

 

[2001LC]

I found it impossible to center the rack and the steering wheel, no matter how hard I tried. I ended up counting how many turns I got in total, then turned to the halfway point so I knew the rack was centered. Then I removed the steering wheel and clock spring and centered them. It actually only takes 10 min to fix the steering wheel.

Even so, at the alignment shop I told them not to center the steering wheel, but adjust the alignment from rack center. I still needed to adjust the steering wheel another 1/8 turn.

Humm! Not sure this works to center rack. Why, knuckle stops. Remove or change a knuckle stop depth, and turn/lock stop at different point in that direction.

 

[Bisho]

Humm! Not sure this works to center rack. Why, knuckle stops. Remove or change a knuckle stop depth, and turn/lock stop at different point in that direction.

We’ll, I didn’t change the knuckle stops, but I’m assured I get the same angle of steer in both directions on the trails.

 

[Bull Moose 100]

I found it impossible to center the rack and the steering wheel, no matter how hard I tried. I ended up counting how many turns I got in total, then turned to the halfway point so I knew the rack was centered. Then I removed the steering wheel and clock spring and centered them. It actually only takes 10 min to fix the steering wheel.

Even so, at the alignment shop I told them not to center the steering wheel, but adjust the alignment from rack center. I still needed to adjust the steering wheel another 1/8 turn.

How do you center the steering wheel?
I need to do this. PO replaced the rack and the steering wheel is way off.

 

[Bisho]

How do you center the steering wheel?
I need to do this. PO replaced the rack and the steering wheel is way off.

Park with the front wheels centered. I knew from driving down the road what centered looked like after the alignment. Disconnect the battery, remove the plastic from the steering column and the airbag, remove the clockspring, unbolt the wheel from the column. You may need a puller, but I was able to pop mine off with a few good whacks with my hand. Reinstall. The clockspring has instructions printed on it for proper install.