installed a lockright in front and now have questions

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Jan 14, 2005
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I finished the front axel rebuild and put a used lockright in, with new springs and pins, but used the old thrust/side washers, I did not measure the gap between the pinion pin and the spacers,,,I missed that page.

now to today:
I jackedup the front end to feel for wheel play, I can turn either wheel and the other does not turn (with hubs locked) I put one tire on the ground and can turn the other by hand, both times I hear a clicking sound (ratcheting),,,,

my mind is saying, if this is supposed to be locked It would seem you could not spin one wheel by hand without the other turning and when one is on the ground you should not be able to spin the free one.... is this right???

and when both are up in the air both should spin when turning by hand...? right
 
The lock right needs the cross shaft turning (powered) to throw the side gears out and lock up. You are getting the famous lock right clacking sound when you turn only one wheel. That's how it operates when the vehicle is coasting into a parking spot and making the noise.
 
The lock right needs the cross shaft turning (powered) to throw the side gears out and lock up. You are getting the famous lock right clacking sound when you turn only one wheel. That's how it operates when the vehicle is coasting into a parking spot and making the noise.

I second all of that, but that being said I have a lockright in the back of mine and both wheels turn when you spin one wheel forward and they are both in the air. You can get them both spinning forwards and then pull on backwards and get it to ratchet, but otherwise they are locked at rest. I think you may have too much clearance between the drivers, but considering that to reset it would require a complete teardown, i would run it a little and see what it does. If it pops and bangs or fails to engage (which i doubt would happen unless you could fit a golf ball between them) then pull it back down.

-Matt
 
Try jacking it up and having someone turn one wheel one way and you turn the other a different direction at the same time, if it doesn't lock up then you have a problem some where.
 
most automatic lockers, are always locked .. so they only allow one wheel go faster than the other ( in a turn the inner wheen go slower and drive the traction, then the outside wheel coast and rotate faster )
 
I knew it would ratchet, I just did not know it would move so easily

I am going to try to take it somewhere to test the "locking" aspect of this, but if I have to open it back up I bet I can do it in under 3 hours, if I had the new side washers,,, but that will take a week

no longfields,,,,,

yea I have been researching the quickest cleanest way to take this back down:
remove the driveshaft
drain the diff
remove the diff carrier nuts

pull 8 cover bolts, and 4 steering cap nuts, and 4 lower bearing cap nuts per side,

I went with 16.5" long ss braided brake lines and got rid of the dust cover so I should be able to just pull the knuckle/hub/birfield assmbly out and set it on something
pull the diff out, put some socks in the axel housing to support the axel (so as not to damage my new marlin oil seals)

pull the springs and pins
remove the center pin bolt and center pin
remove the innerdrive flanges
measure the gaps with a feeler gauge


now, how do you know what size washers to order?,, my guess is, and I want some confirmation, to measure the clearance on each side and order that size, or the size smaller,,, would I add a new washer to what is there, or should I get rid of what is in there and put only one thickness washer?
 
I had to take the knuckle off on the trail once because a fubared hub stud wouldnt let me go the usual route. I dont know if i just have no skills but the knuckle doesnt just slide off as some people say, maybe a little strategic griding might allow such a thing to be easy but all i did was pinch a knuckle bearing, and they arent cheap enough to just throw away like that.
 
I had to take the knuckle off on the trail once because a fubared hub stud wouldnt let me go the usual route. I dont know if i just have no skills but the knuckle doesnt just slide off as some people say, maybe a little strategic griding might allow such a thing to be easy but all i did was pinch a knuckle bearing, and they arent cheap enough to just throw away like that.

A little dremal action would not hurt
 
Everything you've done proves nothing but perfect locker performance. Jack up both wheels, turn the drive shaft and hold one tire still with your foot....if you can hold it, you've got problems.
 

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