Installation Guide for ASFIR skid plates

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Jan 26, 2020
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Location
Fair Oaks Ca
I thought I would post my experience with the installation of the engine skid and gear skid From ASFIR.

Vehicle being installed on is a ‘99 LC all stock with 285/75/16 . Haven’t even cranked the torsion bars. I think that stock height is more than capable and the skids are just cheap insurance. I have been stranded overnight from a rock puncture to the transmission pan on a F150 so these skids were installed even before going on forest roads.

For the engine skid I just sized up the holes with a 1/2 drill bit except for the center. I recommend buying a bolt half an inch longer for the center as well.
Install engine skid after the gear skid.


1. Hand tighten the provided bracket to the frame in rotation so that the bracket sits flat and you can see where to drill out.
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2. Snug bracket to frame.
3 I determined that cutting 4-3/4” off the end of the skid plate was sufficient.
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4. I marked the lines for step 4 before cutting off the end but I cut about the first 1-1/2” off of the sides where they but the bend in then made a cut 3-5/8” to smash down to fit flush with transfer case cross member.
The picture provided is pre-cut so the measurements above are post cut.

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Here’s a pic of it installed so it can make sense.
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5. What I did to mount to transfer crossmember was install 3 bolts in existing holes that had threads and then tightened the skid plate to the provided bracket and engine crossmember. I then used a hammer and whacked the skid plate where each bolt was and got the following measurement so you don’t have to replicate that step.
Each hole was drilled with a 7/16” bit and fit perfect.
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All measurement are off of this hole for the transmission fluid drain. I used the center of the hole.
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This first bolt hole measure is with the shiny side down. Would be the drivers side of the vehicle when plate installed.
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You can barely see the bolt headed imprint above the 14 with my sharpie dot.

Next measurement is the hole that was used for factory transfer case skid.
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The little dot and imprint is above the 7

The final measurement is the passenger side hole, with the shiny side down it is to the right.
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Final step is to bolt the gear skid to the provided bracket by hand to enable some movement. Then the 3 bolts for the transfer case crossmember. And finally install the engine skid and bolt the last 2 into the engine crossmember.
This took about 3 hours because I had to figure out all the measurements and remember to take photos.
I used 3x 4” cut off wheel on cordless grinder to cut the plate.
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I plan on using one of those oil drain valves instead of the oil pan bolt, so need to worry about lining up that hole.
And making my own transfer case skid about the same size as factory using the same holes. Might make that out of 1/4” thick aluminum as well.
I did not put rubber across the plate yet but I will in future, although on first drive I did not hear any rattles.
I also recommend running a tap thru all the factory holes to clean out all the gunk.
 
I just installed mine a month ago or so. I didn't have to drill out any of the holes. I started the 3 in the front, used a floor jack to push the middle of the skid plate up (leaving room to access the bolt), which lined up the 2 bolts that go to the diff drop. Then I used a 120mm long bolt for the center bolt using their supplied spacer, and the diff drop spacer. I've heard of people have to trim it to with a ARB bumper, but I didn't have to.
 
Thanks for the description, measurements, and photos.

I put on the engine skid without a hitch -but agree that a longer bolt would be better and have since bought one.

The middle skid has had me a bit intimidated ~the bracket mounts right where I place the front pads when putting the truck on the lift.
 
I was wanting to place an order with them but now seeing how much work is involved with getting the fitment correct....I am not so sure. Maybe I'll wait if they have gasoline 100 sets coming to production.
 
I was wanting to place an order with them but now seeing how much work is involved with getting the fitment correct....I am not so sure. Maybe I'll wait if they have gasoline 100 sets coming to production.

Read my post above. I had very little fitment issues. Not sure why the OP had so many issues.
 
Read my post above. I had very little fitment issues. Not sure why the OP had so many issues.

You’re ignorant
If you read the post you would’ve seen that all the modifications were done to the transmission skid plate and not the engine.
I drilled the engine skid plate holes one size bigger because I wanted to make it even easier.
 
Last edited:
You’re an idiot.
If you read the post you would’ve seen that all the modifications were done to the transmission skid plate and not the engine.
I drilled the engine skid plate holes one size bigger because I wanted to make it even easier.

Bless your heart
 
I put on the ASFIR front skid plate to my 2006 LC today. All holes lined up no issue. I did have to make a run to the hardware store for a longer middle bolt that has the spacer. It comes with an 80 length bolt. I could get the bolt to start without the washer and lock washer but clearly wanted those so I bought a 100 length bolt and all done. I forgot to weigh the ASFIR plate before installing but the two OEM skids weigh 15 lbs front and 5 lbs middle. I can see that the coverage is good, there will be no issue getting to the oil filter however the oil pan is exposed now. I plan on installing a Fumoto valve next oil change but that won’t be needed until I get a US spec ASFIR middle skid. I was surprised how many dents and scapes were in the OEM front metal skid plus how many chunks were taken out of the plastic/fiberglass middle OEM skid.
 

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