I just added a 10” powered Kicker Subwoofer to my 2005 GX470 and it was extremely easy to do. Can’t believe I didn’t do it earlier. I always thought the ML system was too hard to make any modifications or add a sub, but turns out it is very simple. Highly recommended for anyone looking for more bass with minimal modifications. I did some tests and the factory system really loses output starting around 70hz. I tested the Kicker and got solid output all the way down to around 38hz which is great for the size. The output between 40-70hz is honestly surprisingly good and adds so much to the factory system. It obviously doesn’t hit like two 12”s in a ported box with a proper 1000watt amp, but for the size/real estate it takes up, and ease of install, I’d say it’s worth it and really balances out the factory ML system.
I didn’t want to mess around with adding an aftermarket subwoofer to the factory location. It looked messy and every write up I saw, seems like it wasn’t really worth the effort and there was minimal bass gains. With the Kicker 46HS10 the low end is greatly improved. While the ML system is pretty good, the low freqs always left a bit to be desired and now with the Kicker I can actually feel the bass and when kick drums play. It fits fairly well underneath the drivers seat, and since the ML amp is already under the seat it made the wiring very easy.
Wiring Details:
Positive: For the main power wire, just cut the nipple off the driver side rubber boot and run a coat hangar with the power wire attached through it. It’s easily accessible from the interior.
Negative: I grounded it to the factory bolt that’s holding the ML amp in place.
Subwoofer Input: For the input into the sub all you need to do is tap into the rear speakers coming out of the ML amp. I highly recommend using Posi-Taps. They make it extremely easy and all you have to do is screw the thing onto the wire you want to tap and it automatically pierces it in the center. No cutting needed. Here are the wires to tap. The Kicker has a hi/low option built in so NO converter is necessary.
Remote Turn On: There is a DC offset option on the amp which in theory should turn the amp on via the speaker wires, however I don’t think there is DC offset in a 2005 GX470. I tried it and it didn’t work. No problem, just tap into the ACC power to the ML amp. It is the gray wire on the right harness. Again, I used a Posi-Tap.
Thats pretty much all the wiring, except for the bass control knob which is super simple. I ran it next to the power wire and then up and underneath the steering wheel.
All in all, I’d highly recommend this subwoofer for someone who wants more bass but doesn’t want to mess with the factory sub and is looking for an easy solution. Can’t believe I didn’t do this sooner!
I didn’t want to mess around with adding an aftermarket subwoofer to the factory location. It looked messy and every write up I saw, seems like it wasn’t really worth the effort and there was minimal bass gains. With the Kicker 46HS10 the low end is greatly improved. While the ML system is pretty good, the low freqs always left a bit to be desired and now with the Kicker I can actually feel the bass and when kick drums play. It fits fairly well underneath the drivers seat, and since the ML amp is already under the seat it made the wiring very easy.
Wiring Details:
Positive: For the main power wire, just cut the nipple off the driver side rubber boot and run a coat hangar with the power wire attached through it. It’s easily accessible from the interior.
Negative: I grounded it to the factory bolt that’s holding the ML amp in place.
Subwoofer Input: For the input into the sub all you need to do is tap into the rear speakers coming out of the ML amp. I highly recommend using Posi-Taps. They make it extremely easy and all you have to do is screw the thing onto the wire you want to tap and it automatically pierces it in the center. No cutting needed. Here are the wires to tap. The Kicker has a hi/low option built in so NO converter is necessary.
Thats pretty much all the wiring, except for the bass control knob which is super simple. I ran it next to the power wire and then up and underneath the steering wheel.
All in all, I’d highly recommend this subwoofer for someone who wants more bass but doesn’t want to mess with the factory sub and is looking for an easy solution. Can’t believe I didn’t do this sooner!
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