Injector pump woes (1 Viewer)

[Turbobrick211]

Thank you for the insight on the tools. I think I'll get the ebay one, so that I don't have to mess with the fuel lines. You guys led me in the right direction concerning the filter screen under the fuel cutoff valve. I pulled it out last night and couldn't believe how much metal was packed in the screen! It was disgusting. I also had a couple oopsies along the way. I didn't realize that there was a spring in there, and never saw it. It must have jumped out when I removed it, and I searched for hours and couldn't find it. I also destroyed the O-ring when I reinstalled the valve. After putting it back together the first time, I went out for a test drive and it drove pretty nice, but still dies at idle. But then I realized that the engine would not shut off with the key, lol. That's when I looked at the FSM and realized there was supposed to be a spring in there. I pulled it back apart and searched for the spring, to no avail. My genius wife suggested using a spring out of a Bic pen, so we pulled apart a bunch of pens to find the right diameter spring and we are back in business! However, the truck still dies when I let off the gas pedal, and even worse then before. If I ease off the pedal really gently, it will stay at idle but idles at 1000rpm. So my next quest is to check/adjust the pump timing, and mess around with all the fuel settings to see if I can get it to stay alive. And of course the master plan is to pull the pump and injectors and send them out to get rebuilt once I get my pump back for the diesel Corolla, so I have something else to drive.

 

[IanB]

That's a lot of metal in that screen!! Rebuild is the answer, good luck!

 

[PIP]

I would be alarmed with that much metal. I would expect that metal came from the camplate and rollers by the looks of it.

 

[Douglas S]

Your pump needs a full tear down and rebuild, I would personally not even bother with the timing.

 

[Turbobrick211]

Yeah, I was pretty bummed. But, a rebuild is already in the cards, along with the injectors. Thanks again for all the help. Considering how well the truck pulls now, I'm kind of excited to see how well she runs with a fresh pump and injectors!!

 

[Squash]

Thank you for the insight on the tools. I think I'll get the ebay one, so that I don't have to mess with the fuel lines. You guys led me in the right direction concerning the filter screen under the fuel cutoff valve. I pulled it out last night and couldn't believe how much metal was packed in the screen! It was disgusting. I also had a couple oopsies along the way. I didn't realize that there was a spring in there, and never saw it. It must have jumped out when I removed it, and I searched for hours and couldn't find it. I also destroyed the O-ring when I reinstalled the valve. After putting it back together the first time, I went out for a test drive and it drove pretty nice, but still dies at idle. But then I realized that the engine would not shut off with the key, lol. That's when I looked at the FSM and realized there was supposed to be a spring in there. I pulled it back apart and searched for the spring, to no avail. My genius wife suggested using a spring out of a Bic pen, so we pulled apart a bunch of pens to find the right diameter spring and we are back in business! However, the truck still dies when I let off the gas pedal, and even worse then before. If I ease off the pedal really gently, it will stay at idle but idles at 1000rpm. So my next quest is to check/adjust the pump timing, and mess around with all the fuel settings to see if I can get it to stay alive. And of course the master plan is to pull the pump and injectors and send them out to get rebuilt once I get my pump back for the diesel Corolla, so I have something else to drive.

View attachment 2886697

Thank you for the insight on the tools. I think I'll get the ebay one, so that I don't have to mess with the fuel lines. You guys led me in the right direction concerning the filter screen under the fuel cutoff valve. I pulled it out last night and couldn't believe how much metal was packed in the screen! It was disgusting. I also had a couple oopsies along the way. I didn't realize that there was a spring in there, and never saw it. It must have jumped out when I removed it, and I searched for hours and couldn't find it. I also destroyed the O-ring when I reinstalled the valve. After putting it back together the first time, I went out for a test drive and it drove pretty nice, but still dies at idle. But then I realized that the engine would not shut off with the key, lol. That's when I looked at the FSM and realized there was supposed to be a spring in there. I pulled it back apart and searched for the spring, to no avail. My genius wife suggested using a spring out of a Bic pen, so we pulled apart a bunch of pens to find the right diameter spring and we are back in business! However, the truck still dies when I let off the gas pedal, and even worse then before. If I ease off the pedal really gently, it will stay at idle but idles at 1000rpm. So my next quest is to check/adjust the pump timing, and mess around with all the fuel settings to see if I can get it to stay alive. And of course the master plan is to pull the pump and injectors and send them out to get rebuilt once I get my pump back for the diesel Corolla, so I have something else to drive.

View attachment 2886697

View attachment 2886698

I expected less in this case, but not bad, mine was completely covered.
You might still be fortunate once opened with only minimal parts required. Change out any "O" rings while tge Ip is opened.
Test the injectors and make sure the shop knows that these injectors are 2 stage and not single stage like a 1HZ.

 

[mudgudgeon]

While you were playing with tuning, did you touch the main fuel screw at all?
I don't think you mentioned it?

As a temporary fix to see if you can get it to idle, there's two things I'd suggest

Move the throttle lever on the pump by hand to bring revs up a little and see if it will idle.
If it does, adjust the idle/ throttle arm return screw to increase idle speed.

Another thing you can try is undo the lock nut on the main fuel screw, then screw the screw in ⅛ to ¼ turn.
Changing the main fuel screw to increase idle will also increase the amount of fuel delivered in all other conditions.

Adjustments of the aneroid pin / star wheel and the off boost fuelling can affect idle.

All the timing adjustments are interdependent on each other to a degree.

Neither of these things will fix the pump if it's damaged internally. I agree with others, that amount of metal in the filter screen ain't good, but may not be catastrophic.

 

[mudgudgeon]

If you're going to change the main fuel screw setting, best to remove the locking collar.

Easiest way is to remove the screw, lock nut, locking collar all together with 12mm wrench.
Then separate screw and locknut, break the locking collar off the locknut.

Measure how far the fuel screw sticks out from the casing as accurately as you can so you can get it back to the same setting

 

[Turbobrick211]

If you're going to change the main fuel screw setting, best to remove the locking collar.

Easiest way is to remove the screw, lock nut, locking collar all together with 12mm wrench.
Then separate screw and locknut, break the locking collar off the locknut.

Measure how far the fuel screw sticks out from the casing as accurately as you can so you can get it back to the same setting


View attachment 2887218

Thank you sir for the information. Yes, I have been playing around with the fuel screw, which is how I have been able to get it to idle. However, for it to idle and not fall on it's face when I come to a stop, I have to set the idle to around 1100rpm using the fuel screw. I have the main idle stop screw backed all the way out. This makes for not so fun stop and go driving, as the motor is rather strong and the brakes not so much! I really gotta stomp on the brakes to keep from inching forward when stopped.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Thank you sir for the information. Yes, I have been playing around with the fuel screw, which is how I have been able to get it to idle. However, for it to idle and not fall on it's face when I come to a stop, I have to set the idle to around 1100rpm using the fuel screw. I have the main idle stop screw backed all the way out. This makes for not so fun stop and go driving, as the motor is rather strong and the brakes not so much! I really gotta stomp on the brakes to keep from inching forward when stopped.

If you wind in the idle stop screw, and back of the main fuel screw what happens?
Try and get it to idle with a lower main fuel setting.

Small adjustments on the main fuel screw can make a big difference.

1100 idle is definitely a bit high, but AC idle up puts them at around that.

I think FSM says to set idle at 850-900rpm
Mine had a sweet spot at around 650-700 rpm. It was smooth and quiet and responsive to throttle at that.
Above that it would hunt a little.

 

[mudgudgeon]

In regards to comments on tearing down the pump, rebuild may be ultimately what you need. The fact it had issues before you started tweaking it ain't great

I would say, spend time trouble shooting first.
The tuning adjustments seem simple, but it's easy to get frustrated and confused and completely lose track of what you had, and what you changed.

You may get it running well again, and at least in the short term it gives you time to make decisions about a rebuild so you're doing it on your terms, not in a rush.

 

[Turbobrick211]

A little update. I made a 4 hour drive over the weekend down south, and then the return 4 hour drive home. Before I left, I had turned up the fuel screw and had it idling around 1100. The truck ran great, but of course was a little harder to brake at low speeds because of the higher idle. Yesterday after work, I turned the fuel screw back down, and now have it idling nice and smooth at 900 rpm. It isn't dying at idle any longer, nor is it hunting. It doesn't have as much power as it did with the increased fuel screw setting, but it runs smooth and idles fine. I'm wondering if it just needed the long drive at 80mph to clear some junk out of the pump/injectors. Either way, I still plan to have the pump and injectors rebuilt once the Corolla is back together.

 

[PIP]

Why not leave the fuel turned up and lower the idle speed?

 

[Turbobrick211]

Why not leave the fuel turned up and lower the idle speed?

That's the confusing part. I have the idle screw backed all the way out to where the throttle lever is bottomed out and won't move any more. Is there something else that I can adjust? Maybe the AC idle up lever?

 

[PIP]

That's the confusing part. I have the idle screw backed all the way out to where the throttle lever is bottomed out and won't move any more. Is there something else that I can adjust? Maybe the AC idle up lever?

How far was the idle screw past the stop before you changed it? Usually they are set around 3/8" or 10mm of exposed threads. That gives a large adjustment range.

Dumb question- did you by chance adjust the high throttle limit instead of the idle screw? The high limit will change nothing.

 

[Turbobrick211]

How far was the idle screw past the stop before you changed it? Usually they are set around 3/8" or 10mm of exposed threads. That gives a large adjustment range.

Dumb question- did you by chance adjust the high throttle limit instead of the idle screw? The high limit will change nothing.

Okay, well I'm feeling kinda dumb now. I checked the idle screw when I got home last night, and you could see the clean part of the screw which used to be covered up. I was pretty surprised, because I had just adjusted it a few days ago to the bottom of the levers' movement. However, what I think was happening is that the AC idle up solenoid was pushing on the throttle arm when I shut down the engine, and it stayed there. So, I adjusted the throttle screw back to its original location, and adjusted the fuel screw back up, and now it idles right at 800 and pulls nice and strong. What a learning curve!!

 

[mudgudgeon]

What a learning curve!!

Enjoy the ride!

Setting these pumps is confusing and not intuitive to start with.
Once you've played with it a bit, it will start to make sense, and tweaking it becomes easier

 

[Turbobrick211]

Enjoy the ride!

Setting these pumps is confusing and not intuitive to start with.
Once you've played with it a bit, it will start to make sense, and tweaking it becomes easier

Thank you medgudgeon for all your help! It is starting to make sense. I just got a call that my IP for the Corolla is finished, and I should have it back tomorrow! So I get to do all this fun stuff on the Corolla again soon, along with water pump, timing belt and pulleys etc. And once that's done, the Land Cruiser goes under the knife! Not only am I going to pull the IP and injectors and send them out for rebuild, I'm going to rebuild the power steering pump, pull the front axle and completely rebuild it, all new bushings, brake bleed and new pads, and whatever else I can find while I'm in there. Should be pretty nice when I'm done.