does anyone know how to use the "injection pump cleaner"?
The FSM does not give instructions on how this works but is labeled as seen in the attached photo.
Gosh this pump continues to throw up interesting stuff
Given there does not appear to be an oil drain, I'd feel quite comfortable using a funnel to flush that pump through with diesel, I'd then use some kind of vacuum/siphon to extract the diesel using that dipstick hole before refilling with oil..
Is it just a knob? Or does it appear to have some kind of function other than as a cover for a hole?
I actually unscrewed #39 drain screw but nothing but diesel came out. It did have a small amount of old black residue mixed with it. Guess that's just a drain to clean out old diesel fluid.
Maybe that is just a dragon for a diesel reservoir?
I'm confused as why they would make it so difficult to change/clean the oil out. Hard enough to get the 130cc in that small hole.
Thanks for your response and maybe I will get this IP figured out...feel like I am back in college aside from the pretty girls running around!
Ahh I missed that drain screw.. nice, I would comfortably give it a good flush with diesel then using the hole labelled "Injection Pump Cleaner".. its clearly built into the side inspection plate and that plate covers all of the running gear thats normally lubricated with engine oil.. if you had diesel in there and no engine oil came out one hope its not all sludged up inside.. if you're comfortable doing it, it would pay to remove the side plate and inspect the internals..
Maybe the Previous Owner filled it with Diesel and not oil? A good clean with diesel and a refill with engine oil is not going to hurt anything.
Thank you duncanrm! With your help we may have figured out this odd IP.
One last question, I know there is an adjustment screw located on the end of the housing that increases or decreases fuel intake. In the FSM it indicates to turn CW for more fuel and CCW for less.
I have noticed that she is sluggish when shifting from 2nd to 3rd. New fuel filter, running biodiesel and clean air filter.
When were the injectors last rebuilt? Winding up the fuel may liven it up a bit but its a crude approach. I'd be treating it to rebuilt injectors before going down that route.
Is there much smoke under load with a wide open throttle? Also, if there's a factory water separator fitted (bolted to the chassis rail under the seat) I'd considering ensuring thats free of gunk (or even deleting it altogether and fitting a modern separator/filter unit).
There is no smoke at all; black white or blue under load.
I should say that I live at 7200' and understand there will be loss of power not only at high altitude but also incline roads. But when I travel in the valley I still noticed the sluggish behavior on even a moderate incline.
I plan on installing a separator as it does not have one now. Reason I have been running biodiesel as our petro in Costa Rica is sketchy.
There is no smoke at all; black white or blue under load.
I should say that I live at 7200' and understand there will be loss of power not only at high altitude but also incline roads. But when I travel in the valley I still noticed the sluggish behavior on even a moderate incline.
I plan on installing a separator as it does not have one now. Reason I have been running biodiesel as our petro in Costa Rica is sketchy.
Yes, that is quite high and your diesel will definitely not be running at its best without an altitude compensator as fitted to some later pumps.
You could safely wind the fuel up, I like to see a tiny bit of black smoke under load, so sounds like you've got room to move with it. Injector rebuild will never go astray.. if you can find someone to do it locally.. may not be easy.
Not running well on an incline is a bit odd though.. I cant explain that one.
Well I added 130cc of oil to the IP and noticed it dripping the added oil out if the small pipe. Above the drain bolt is another bolt with the small pipe coming out of it.
Don't think this is suppose to happen nor does the FSM have this labeled.
The first photo is underneath the IP were it is dripping. The next 2 photos show the pipe I am referring to
I am at a loss.
As you can see on this page from the FSM there is only one bolt, the drain bolt. My IP has another bolt directly about it with the small pipe. The second photo is my IP with the 2 bolts and the top having the pipe.
Just a thought and maybe someone can confirm. Given I don't have an oil injection should I use a bolt to block off the top hole? Just use the dipstick to check the oil and periodically change oil using the drain plug?
That pipe is almost certainly an engine oil feed pipe.. I suspect your IP is designed to be fed engine oil from the block and that manual you're working from is not quite the correct manual for that pump. The engine oil return would be through the timing case. Is there a matching engine oil feed somewhere off the side of the block?
What is the background to this engine? Have you had it running previously or is this a new project.. has this pump previously been running on this engine?
It runs fine, never had any issues with the pump. The PO did a few things that were not up to my standards so this is the reason I am checking everything.
I am thinking I could just block off the feeder line. It appears some pumps do not use oil injector and maybe that is what the previous owner was trying to accomplish.
Now if I do find a connector on the engine block I would prefer to have it in original working condition. The problem with that is I do not see an injection pump flange.
Maybe the pump was replaced at some point.. and a later pump was used. I think you could safely cap off the old oil feed line and run it with the 130mls of oil.. I'd still flush first, and regularly change. Testament to the robustness of the old pump that it was still working after essentially not havnig any oil in it for quite some time!
If so the Engine FSM (98082) you are using (and posting images from here) is too old for it and you should be using the 98260 FSM (for 1977 through to August-1980 B & 2B engines).
(I'm assuming your injector pump doesn't really have the dipstick or "Injection Pump Cleaner". And BTW - My suspicion is that the thing labelled "Injection Pump Cleaner" on the older engines is really a "vent" with some sort of air-filtration mesh/gauze incorporated in it with the aim of keeping the IP Clean by keeping dust and insects out.)
Here are some pics to show you where the other end of that oil feed pipe goes on my 1979 BJ40...........
Looking down from above it goes under the fuel pump and heads towards the timing cover:
And here's where it connects (in another banjo union) on the inner part of the timing cover:
(BTW - This is my spare engine so that's why there's no belt on the pulley.)
I assume the returning oil from my IP enters the timing cover behind my automatic timer (from where it drains into the sump) via the holes I see here in the IP's mounting flange (and this image is from the 98260 FSM):
Can anyone confirm this?
(Sorry for the very poor scan image)
EDIT: Ooops. Just looked at your other thread and I see you do really have a dipstick on your IP so your BJ40 cannot be 1978 (or at least the IP must be from a B-engine made in September 1977 or earlier).
So........You're indeed using the correct (early) engine FSM - based on the presence of the IP dipstick anyway.
Can you confirm the "cleaner thing" is really just a "breather with filtering capability"?
Anyway ---- I think I'd just remove that bit of pipe and plug the hole. (How the hell it got to be there on an old-style IP is a mystery though!)
BTW- Just use the same oil in your IP that you use in your engine.
