Induction Heat for Fasteners, Rusted Bolts, Frame Rivets? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Grayscale
- Start date
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I've been meaning to get one, I hear they're pretty useful... curious if the price came down at all yet. I haven't had a rusty project for a bit, thankfully. 
Better part of $200. They work for other things like small parts heat treatment.
I have tried this in the past with a product called Calyx and torch and had success. You can use a toaster oven but I don't have one that I wouldn't want to use for food stuffs afterwards.
I used this process with all the bare metal bolts that I've left bare while "refreshing". It's been slow lately and most haven't seen the elements yet, but these circled below got pretty soaked during the radiator work and didn't rust.
I didn't have an induction heater and didn't know about them for this use until I saw this video a few years ago.
They are spendy but cool.
I used this process with all the bare metal bolts that I've left bare while "refreshing". It's been slow lately and most haven't seen the elements yet, but these circled below got pretty soaked during the radiator work and didn't rust.
I didn't have an induction heater and didn't know about them for this use until I saw this video a few years ago.
They are spendy but cool.
- Thread starter
- #5
I've been looking into carbon rods, for a non-consumptive arc. This guy has such a cool arc, he can weld lead in the process of rebuilding a battery. You'll never look at a lead-acid battery the same after watching that.
The problem with carbon arc gouging rods, or twin-stick welding is that the carbon rod can be a source of carbon-monoxide.
The problem with carbon arc gouging rods, or twin-stick welding is that the carbon rod can be a source of carbon-monoxide.
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I didn't new grids - so the only thing eleminitated was inner plate dendrite growth. Seems like more packing and less plates too.
We have one at work. They work and it’s handy. Not the end all be all, but I’ve seen some pretty impressive results with it. Not sure on the price, but it’d be handy in the shop.
Have one. Works great. Just can't leave it on for more than 30 seconds at a time. But usually the bolt is cherry red by then.
- Thread starter
- #10
Acetylene and oxygen is inconvenient. I really don't like the idea of going that route.
Rivets. Maybe induction heat can help? Most of the rivet work on the Cruiser doesn't have that much mushrooming on the head. This guy might need to make a bucking tool that is a solid wedge against a temporary structure? I thought that I'd heat the rivet after it is installed in the hole, and a screw-jack would push up against the head? I really don't want to install bolts where the factory used rivets.
Rivets. Maybe induction heat can help? Most of the rivet work on the Cruiser doesn't have that much mushrooming on the head. This guy might need to make a bucking tool that is a solid wedge against a temporary structure? I thought that I'd heat the rivet after it is installed in the hole, and a screw-jack would push up against the head? I really don't want to install bolts where the factory used rivets.
V8FJ4078
SILVER Star
We tried heating before we put the rivet in the hole when I put the rear cross member back together after cleaning all the rust off and replacing the braces. It worked but not great, then we tried putting the rivet in, clamping it tight, heating the rivet and then using a air hammer that we made a tool to shape the rivet head to the correct shape and that worked so much better. They turned out tight too!
Have to look at which way you put the rivet in so that you can get the air hammer to the rivet.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
You mean like these?
I've always been a fan of riveted connections. I think they're far superior to welding, from the perspective of cost, at least for small jobs. There's no way the total cost of welding can compete, for projects like the one above. There's no special skill required, other than that associated with learning the process, which isn't much. And a heater for a rivet is far cheaper than a welder. And they're totally removable, unlike a weld.
The only reason rivets lost favor was the lower production costs associated with welding on large structural projects. After that happened, everyone had to have a welder, because that was was the cool kids did.
I've always been a fan of riveted connections. I think they're far superior to welding, from the perspective of cost, at least for small jobs. There's no way the total cost of welding can compete, for projects like the one above. There's no special skill required, other than that associated with learning the process, which isn't much. And a heater for a rivet is far cheaper than a welder. And they're totally removable, unlike a weld.
The only reason rivets lost favor was the lower production costs associated with welding on large structural projects. After that happened, everyone had to have a welder, because that was was the cool kids did.
V8FJ4078
SILVER Star
Yes, similar, we have a harbor freight air hammer/chisel, and my dad turned one in the lathe to match the chisel that goes into the tool then to fit the head of the rivet in the shape that matched Toyota's.
