In 24 hrs...
- Thread starter Unoman
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
tucker74
Moderator
Man that looks perty - git 'er done!
Tucker
Tucker
Wow! Here I thought I got a lot done yesterday.
Don't be so modest. What you did yesterday pales in comparison to your stupendous accomplishments this afternoon.
Lookin' good, sorry I missed your call Sunday, my phone didn't ring (I've about had it with it, need a new one!!) and I didn't know you left a message intil about 5:00 yesterday...Like you, I'm still thrashing on mine, and probably will even at K2
- Thread starter
- #7
No worries WL.
Actually got to take it for a test drive last night around the hood. Was running great and then just died on me. Dist cap looks toasted. Got a new one in hand with new plugs, wires and rotor.....that should hopefully cure the issue
Actually got to take it for a test drive last night around the hood. Was running great and then just died on me. Dist cap looks toasted. Got a new one in hand with new plugs, wires and rotor.....that should hopefully cure the issue
- Thread starter
- #8
Ok, well the new cap, rotor, plugs and wires didn't fix the issue. I have spark and fuel at the rail. It was running great last night and then slowly lost power and the motor completely shut off. All electrics were still working...lights, radio etc. Engine will turnover, but won't fire. Any ideas? Btw, I have a 3fe
Checked all of the fusible links? EFI relay?
Where is the ECU grounded? Is the engine Grounded? Same fuel pump as before? Same FPR as before?
- Thread starter
- #12
The ecu is grounded to the tub. The starter has a ground to the frame and the neg batt cable is also grounded to the frame. I'm running the same fuel pump as before. When I turn the key to "on", the main relay clicks. I can push the trap door in the afm and the fuel pump kicks on. It's almost as if the injectors are not functioning.
Mark....did you have an efi relay? All I have is the circuit opening relay and the main relay. Two fusible links. I was running it this was for an entire year without issue
Mark....did you have an efi relay? All I have is the circuit opening relay and the main relay. Two fusible links. I was running it this was for an entire year without issue
If you're running the stock fusible link harness, then you can check continuity.
I would think fuel pressure is the problem. Can you check what pressure you are getting at the rail?
Can he bypass the FPR?
Did you check spark at the plugs, Unoman?
Did you check spark at the plugs, Unoman?
Can you swap FPR on the fuel rail. I used a aftermarket FPR, and capped the end of my Fuel rail, and off the FPR was a return line to the tank.
Did you check to make sure the filter was not clogged? Are you using the stock 40 tank or did you swap in the 62 tank? What pump are you using (you mentioned same one as before)?
- Thread starter
- #18
I'm running a msd2225 fuel pump with the stock 40 tank. I haven't checked what the actual pressure is yet on the rail. A possible FPR swap is not out of the question. While the short block was being rebuilt, I changed out the fuel filter for a new one. I definitely know its getting fuel as the brand new plugs smelled like gas and had some residual fuel still on them from trying to start it so much. I've tried two different dizzys and each is providing spark.
Did a compression test to see if the headgasket was still in tact and found I'm at 120-125. Head was dropped off to be rebuilt, should be done tomorrow. So, we'll what happens once I get it all back together.
The mind boggling part of all of this is that the truck was running great before doing all of this. The only reason I had the short block rebuilt was due to a knocking wrist pin. I drove it that way for a year without issue. One would think this should be a plug and play operation.....but it's never that easy.
Did a compression test to see if the headgasket was still in tact and found I'm at 120-125. Head was dropped off to be rebuilt, should be done tomorrow. So, we'll what happens once I get it all back together.
The mind boggling part of all of this is that the truck was running great before doing all of this. The only reason I had the short block rebuilt was due to a knocking wrist pin. I drove it that way for a year without issue. One would think this should be a plug and play operation.....but it's never that easy.
tucker74
Moderator
I'd say it's a fuel pressure or ECM issue, something is mucking with the ignition/injection system. If the plugs were wet, you sure your dizzy isn't 180 out?
Tucker
Tucker
