I'm dyin' to work on my 80!! Also, a P/N. (1 Viewer)

[IdahoDoug]

It's been great fun getting the new 97 up to speed on maintenance and such and I'm almost done. Had the belts, hoses, Toyota Red, silicone PHH with constant tension clamp, thermostat and gasket, and new new idler pulley all ready from Cdan. Perfect efficiency as they all involve the same operations.

Then I noted a small repair the PO had done on the radiator. Since this truck will also tow heavy loads and be called upon to wheel, I opted to put everything on hold and get an OEM rad (the good 93/4 brass one) from Cdan (thanks for the price). There will be a 100 degree day pulling 6000lbs of boat over a Wester pass one day and I don't want to worry about a cooling issue. It arrived a few days ago and I was pumped to do it all at once.

Then my window of opportunity closed and I've had to stare longingly at those new gleaming parts on the workbench while the truck is driven with seeping hoses and ratty belts for days. It's freakin' killing me!

On the good side, I'm now basically pulling the old radiator, and simply reassembling with the new parts and she'll be fully up to snuff.

On the tech side, I got the silicone hose from NAPA just like last time. Only last time it was solid green hose. This time they sourced it from a specialty hose supply house and it's blue on the outside with a red liner. They also sold me a lined constant tension hose clamp and here's the P/N for anyone else looking for it: P/N BK 705-1500. It was $3.99 and I'm planning to use only one.

This clamp will go on the end away from the block. On the other end, I'll rob a spring clamp from one of the radiator hoses on the firewall to use, replacing it with a conventional clamp. I've changed two PHHs and it's nice to have only to use pliers to position the one deep against the block. That can be tough access unless you have girlie hands like Tyler.

DougM

 

[landtank]

I'm actually still on the fense as to whether or not the brass is a better cooling radiator.

Considering:
aluminum transfer heat better than brass

Anding another row restricts air flow

And each subsequent row cools less than the one before

It would almost seem to be a tie

Anyone have a definitive answer or web site on this?

 

[sjcruiser]

I think being cheaper is all that matters!

Edit: some comparisions...
http://www.arrowheadradiator.com/Radiator_Diagnosis,_ Repair,_ &_ Replacement_ Tips.htm

 

[turbocruiser]

I'm actually still on the fense as to whether or not the brass is a better cooling radiator.

Considering:
aluminum transfer heat better than brass

Anding another row restricts air flow

And each subsequent row cools less than the one before

It would almost seem to be a tie

Anyone have a definitive answer or web site on this?

There was a wonderful thread awhile ago about this but "we" basically dont know which rad has the better cooling capacity as far as i remember. My personal preference after alotta research and alotta help from fine folks here is the Al so whenever the time comes, I'm already planning to send Dan's dogs the extra 90 for the Al rad. From the phsyics of the thing, I think the AL is the clear winner all around for all the points you mention as well as the fact that the two rows are much wider tubes than the three rows' tubes which might help some and the possiblility that the Al has a higher burst rate which also might help some.

I know that the cooling system on my rig almost never allows the coolant to go over 90 celsius, only one time since installing the aftermarket temp gauge I saw a short peak of 96 celsius which was when I was really really pushing it hard up some steep sections of loose gravel roads (Gold Camp Road for you Coloradoans!). The spike came after a romp of running between 3K and full out flat for over five minutes and yet as soon as returned to the normal lopy pace, the thing returned to 90 within one minute tops, prolly just 45 secs. Overall I am impressed with the proven cooling capability of the Al. I still think the main advantage to the brass is the cost, if thats the case, and especially if the Al actually cools better, than I'd want the Al just to stick with what works well for me.

One thing I've always wanted to know is some average temps (just like I gave here) from others who run the brass rad and an aftermarket temp gauge. It oughta be easy enough to get those figures here, come on fellas, post some temps and say what type of temps you're runnin.

Ohh, BTW, here is that thread, good stuff:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=27705&highlight=aluminum+radiator

 

[cruiserdan]

Aluminum makes GREAT beer cans...........





Iff'n you want to buy Coors Radiators I'll stock 'em.....

 

[landtank]

From the link provided by sjcruiser:

" Copper/brass has been the material of choice for most radiators until recently because of its superior ability to conduct heat "


Always thought it was the other way around.

 

[landtank]

Aluminum makes GREAT beer cans...........





Iff'n you want to buy Coors Radiators I'll stock 'em.....

'spose Keystone comes in brass

 

[RavenTai]

Aluminum conducts better than common brass but copper conducts about 3 times more than aluminum, there are many alloys based on copper. Brass and bronze are common names for many different copper alloys.

On a friends Tacoma (think it was a 96?) it defiantly has copper fins not sure about the tubes,

I have asked this before and CDan said the radiator was "brass".

 

[Docmallory]

They also sold me a lined constant tension hose clamp and here's the P/N for anyone else looking for it: P/N BK 705-1500. It was $3.99 and I'm planning to use only one.

Doug,

Aren't you concerned that the silicone hose will weep when cold with a conventional clamp, or do you just consider the risk not worth the hassle of getting two constant tension clamps on there?

(Easy for me to ask - I have girly hands!)

 

[Rich]

The reason to use lined clamps with silicone hose is to prevent the soft silicone from extruding up through the serrations and basically amputating itself. I don't know, but suspect this would also be an issue with the Toyota spring clamps. You can see that they do leave quit an imprint on the stock hoses.

I would expect that the Toyota spring clamps would prevent cold leaks, same as constant torque clamps.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Doc,

On my 93, I used a Toy spring clamp against the block, AND one on the other end. My thought was that these spring clamps would shrink down if/as the silicone hose material moved. After one false start where I got some leakage and discovered I had not gotten the clamp away from the block properly square, it has worked beautifully. No seepage. And it's comforting to know I can now literally change out the PHH hose in about 10 minutes with only a pair of ordinary channel lock pliers. My experience has been that the PHH is a pain only from the perspective of getting the freakin' factory clamps off - they have to be cut/snipped off and then the old hose is welded on and must be cut/split and torn off. With little space, this part of the operation is really the ugly part. Otherwise, you're laying on your back and have to do the job partly by feel which is not uncommon when swinging a wrench on a car. By contrast, the silicone is not supposed to bond to the metal pipes as harshly.

At that time, I also purchased a pair of the then-snazzy new Gates heat shrink hose clamps to use. One look at how stout they were and I relegated them to the spares box. They'll actually take a grinder or hacksaw to remove and there's no way you're even getting the tiniest Dremel tool in there to cut the block side off.

On my bro in law's 93, I did the exact same as on my 93 with a scrap of the silicone hose from my changeout.

So to answer your question, this time, I'm using the snazzy constant tension lined clamp purely for fun as I've already found something that works. Something to talk about here and around a campfire some day, I guess. Interestingly, the thing is actually quite bulky and I have some misgivings about getting it up there and tightened. I'll report back on that.

That shiny box of parts is killing me. Even a set of new factory shocks laying out there - taunting me.

DougM