Illuminated HID & FOG Switches (1 Viewer)

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Here's how the #1/#2 switches and the connector 90980-11533 look together...


























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.

Fits like OJ's glove! :flipoff2:



Anyway, I'd like to thank Rich for motivating me to do what I should have done before I started offering the switches in the first place and also would like to thank Sheldon for having been inspired to identify the correct connector for the switch(es)! :beer:

I hope you guys (Mudders) benefit from this trivial info!



BTW, THEIZZARDKING,

Sorry that I can't help you with your question!
I hope someone who knows will chime in soon!

GOOD LUCK!!
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It needs no explanation...trust me she gets it..:)

explain to her that you got the Landtank seat extenders for more "head room" and expect them to be used as such.
 
Perfectumundo....can I get two complete sets now please? :)

Here's how the #1/#2 switches and the connector 90980-11533 look together...


























.


.


.

Fits like OJ's glove! :flipoff2:



Anyway, I'd like to thank Rich for motivating me to do what I should have done before I started offering the switches in the first place and also would like to thank Sheldon for having been inspired to identify the correct connector for the switch(es)! :beer:

I hope you guys (Mudders) benefit from this trivial info!



BTW, THEIZZARDKING,

Sorry that I can't help you with your question!
I hope someone who knows will chime in soon!

GOOD LUCK!!
 
Rich,

I can send out two of the "click'n stay-in" (#3) switches, with the matching connectors and the two connectors for the switches you already have. PM me and let me know where and how quickly you want them.

Also, one concern my stupidity might cause me to have...

These connectors seem to have a smaller portions in them that came not clicked in to the connector. I'll post a pic, but the logical reason for them being there is that once you get the wires and stuff in there correctly, you snap these pieces in, to secure them.

Let me know what you think.
Being a retard I was, I "acciedentaly" snapped a couple of them in their place. I "might" be able to unsnap them, but have not tried that yet (Afraid to break them!)

If you're fine with the snapped-in-place connectors (I only did a couple/few of them. :doh:) then I can ship them ASAP, but if not, then there could be a further delay. :doh::doh:

Let me know!!

Mot
 
The pin lock thingy can be snapped and unsnapped lots of times.
Dental pic works nicely, or a small precision screwdriver to pry the thing out.
Get the Wire harness repair manual. It explains how to unlock all the weird and wonderful plugs.
 
The pin lock thingy can be snapped and unsnapped lots of times.
Dental pic works nicely, or a small precision screwdriver to pry the thing out.
Get the Wire harness repair manual. It explains how to unlock all the weird and wonderful plugs.

Sheldon,

Is there anything that you don't have an answer for?

What's the meaning of life? :hillbilly:

Not trying to sound like a broken record/CD, but .... Thanks again!!

Mot
 
ok so i quit being a pussy and busted out the multi meter,

on switch 84160-28010 as staed in my last post on this thread is simple

install without pig tail.

take switch remove yellow/white plastic pigtail connector from back of switch, use the supplied connectors from the fog lamp kit to connect to the back of the switch the small prongs should now be completely exposed after removing the pig tail connector

now the prongs are really easy turn the switch as if your going to mount it, the top 2 prongs are for the light inside of the switch and the bottom 2 are for power and ground, i'm just now working out how to wire this into the dash lighting for dimming effects or i may just wire it a aux on power source, it is know the 2 lower prongs are strictly for power and should go to ground and to the battery.

(sorry if this is a hijack but if you google 84160-28010 there are only 3 threads in the whole world on it and this is by far the best one)

sorry again and thats all you'll here from in this thread on this subject ;-)
 
Dude!

Not sure if you were referring to me, but I'm not sure if the folder that had contained the PN info. made it to the US with me or not. :doh:

I'll have to see if it's buried in one of the 20+ boxes I brought...
 
Dude!

Not sure if you were referring to me, but I'm not sure if the folder that had contained the PN info. made it to the US with me or not. :doh:

I'll have to see if it's buried in one of the 20+ boxes I brought...

Dude! Just referring to anyone who might have the part number. The pic in post #3 shows toyota packaging behind it, so i guess i was referring to Filmpros... Hope you or someone out there has it!
 
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Anyone have the part # for this switch?

Here's how the #1/#2 switches and the connector 90980-11533 look together...


























.


.


.

Fits like OJ's glove! :flipoff2:



Anyway, I'd like to thank Rich for motivating me to do what I should have done before I started offering the switches in the first place and also would like to thank Sheldon for having been inspired to identify the correct connector for the switch(es)! :beer:

I hope you guys (Mudders) benefit from this trivial info!



BTW, THEIZZARDKING,

Sorry that I can't help you with your question!
I hope someone who knows will chime in soon!

GOOD LUCK!!
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OK,

Call me a slacker, but I finally went through the connectors that I've picked up and/with the switches I had.

Here are the findings...




The defrost switch and the connector that I begged Toyota to look up ....


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View attachment 355265View attachment 355266View attachment 355267
I know this posts old as the hills but can these plugs be ordered tbrough toyota?
Ive got switches but no plus and need more switches also but most are sold here without pigtails.
Ive found some early and late 80 series cdl switches to here on aussie ebay if anyones on the hunt
 

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