I keep a extra 10 pack of crush rings as well as some of the Microscopic o-Rings on-hand in shop basement parts dept. at all times
Idle solenoid appears cut? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Dclowd9901
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I keep a extra 10 pack of crush rings as well as some of the Microscopic o-Rings on-hand in shop basement parts dept. at all times
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- Thread starter
- #43
Alright, here's where I've landed with this whole saga, after 3 days of testing every got dang vacuum system component on that effer.
I've managed to get the truck at least idling pretty smoothly and getting about half the power out of the torque.
Many of the components (EGR) for instance, are failing tests left and right. They rely on vacuum from the air cleaner, but there is no vacuum coming from it, as far as I can tell. There _is_ vacuum in the intake manifold.
I did a fog test on my air cleaner and there is fog coming from _everywhere_. I can't even pinpoint it because it's so much. I did manage to see a few hot spots that def. need attention: the portion where the air cleaner meets the head, wingnuts that are supposed to keep it down and sealed, and around the intake manifold (less obvious there, but worth noting).
I guess next I will be taking apart the air cleaner to see if sealing it back up will do the trick (I'll have to do this anyway once I get the fuel cut solenoid delivered). If I see noticeable improvement there, I'll continue on and try to figure out what to do around the intake manifold.
I've managed to get the truck at least idling pretty smoothly and getting about half the power out of the torque.
Many of the components (EGR) for instance, are failing tests left and right. They rely on vacuum from the air cleaner, but there is no vacuum coming from it, as far as I can tell. There _is_ vacuum in the intake manifold.
I did a fog test on my air cleaner and there is fog coming from _everywhere_. I can't even pinpoint it because it's so much. I did manage to see a few hot spots that def. need attention: the portion where the air cleaner meets the head, wingnuts that are supposed to keep it down and sealed, and around the intake manifold (less obvious there, but worth noting).
I guess next I will be taking apart the air cleaner to see if sealing it back up will do the trick (I'll have to do this anyway once I get the fuel cut solenoid delivered). If I see noticeable improvement there, I'll continue on and try to figure out what to do around the intake manifold.
do you have a Digital Bore scope tool by any chance ?
the wand with a small camera on end type thing
- have u tried simply taking your Finder and covering the fuel cut threaded hole while truck is running
to see if a major vacuum leal is coming from the open fuel cut threaded hole maybe ?
I would suggest going to your local Auto Zone and Purchasing a 52mm Type simple Vacuum Gauge assy
a basic one should be Under $20 , NOT a vacuum Boost Giuage , but stand alone VACUUM analog full
sweeping needle
a small piece of vacuum Hose and a T or Y fitting
i would NOT rely on a smoke test they tend to be messy and give false readings on a 30-40 year old engine
having a vacuum gauge is a invaluable way to fine tune set your ignition Timing later as well
this is My 52mm YAZAKI Vintage Vacuum Gauge iv had since high school vo-tech
it would be good measure to know what exactly your engine vacuum is right now and as u continue to make repairs and run diagnostic tests your would know instantly if u have made any corrections or improvement
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- Thread starter
- #45
Yep; it’s how I got that picture of the solenoid port in the original post. Why?
well ,
while u have your air cleaner off , prop open fully your carb Butterfly VERY carefully with a Phillips or flat screwdriver out side on linkage , carefully
insert the wand down past carb base and inspect the very bottom of the intake Manifold for anything that looks
like a hair line crack , i have seen more the one 2F engine develops one , kinda instantly , because the Heat riser
gets stuck over time in the on position , and the exhaust gas super heats the bottom on the intake manifold
the subsequent crack then becomes a Major Source of a Vacuum Leak , and remains hidden from view
but first start by rotating by hand your heat riser shaft to see if its seized or has its FULL range of motion ?
there should be a Bi-metallic Coil spring on either side keeping it in the open position when engine is HOT
make sure the spring is present , thy tend to fall off after 30+ years
use caution inserting the wand down the carb BORE also , the ventures are a tight squeeze
u can also wait-till solenoid comes and install first to see if the obvious initial issue fixes the problem too ?
while u have your air cleaner off , prop open fully your carb Butterfly VERY carefully with a Phillips or flat screwdriver out side on linkage , carefully
insert the wand down past carb base and inspect the very bottom of the intake Manifold for anything that looks
like a hair line crack , i have seen more the one 2F engine develops one , kinda instantly , because the Heat riser
gets stuck over time in the on position , and the exhaust gas super heats the bottom on the intake manifold
the subsequent crack then becomes a Major Source of a Vacuum Leak , and remains hidden from view
but first start by rotating by hand your heat riser shaft to see if its seized or has its FULL range of motion ?
there should be a Bi-metallic Coil spring on either side keeping it in the open position when engine is HOT
make sure the spring is present , thy tend to fall off after 30+ years
use caution inserting the wand down the carb BORE also , the ventures are a tight squeeze
u can also wait-till solenoid comes and install first to see if the obvious initial issue fixes the problem too ?
- Thread starter
- #47
Will do; thanks for the suggestion
- Thread starter
- #48
do you have a Digital Bore scope tool by any chance ?
the wand with a small camera on end type thing
- have u tried simply taking your Finder and covering the fuel cut threaded hole while truck is running
to see if a major vacuum leal is coming from the open fuel cut threaded hole maybe ?
I would suggest going to your local Auto Zone and Purchasing a 52mm Type simple Vacuum Gauge assy
a basic one should be Under $20 , NOT a vacuum Boost Giuage , but stand alone VACUUM analog full
sweeping needle
a small piece of vacuum Hose and a T or Y fitting
i would NOT rely on a smoke test they tend to be messy and give false readings on a 30-40 year old engine
having a vacuum gauge is a invaluable way to fine tune set your ignition Timing later as well
this is My 52mm YAZAKI Vintage Vacuum Gauge iv had since high school vo-tech
it would be good measure to know what exactly your engine vacuum is right now and as u continue to make repairs and run diagnostic tests your would know instantly if u have made any corrections or improvement
View attachment 2068802
I hadn’t seen this message earlier. I actually have a vacuum gauge. The only place I’m reading vacuum is the intake manifold at this point. No readable vacuum is coming from the air cleaner.
Also, because it would probably be bad to assume otherwise, I’m going off the assumption that the end snapped off the solenoid until I can ensure otherwise. Now how to do that...
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you really would not have a measurable Vacuum above the Carburetor Air horn / Base Butterflies
you would ONLY want to tap into your Intake Manifold and measure the Strongest Possible Vacuum u have
this way u know
your Goal Is ALWAYS the Strongest Possible vacuum at base idle , this is the Sign of a Healthy Happy 2F Series Engine ,
and would and should indicate things like STRONG compression , and properly adjusted Valves Etc.....
I personally Use My YAZAKI Hand Held 52mm Vacuum Gauge when i set any timing in any Toyota Adjustable Timing vehical
I Set to factory spec's such as the CHROME BB on the F/ 2F Flywheel , Using a Traditional Timing Light method
Then , Refer to the Vacuum Gauge for the Final Adjustment and final Lock Down Bolt Tweek of the distributor
Its a Fine Tuning Method That Really Does Work ...................
- Thread starter
- #50
you really would not have a measurable Vacuum above the Carburetor Air horn / Base Butterflies
you would ONLY want to tap into your Intake Manifold and measure the Strongest Possible Vacuum u have
this way u know
your Goal Is ALWAYS the Strongest Possible vacuum at base idle , this is the Sign of a Healthy Happy 2F Series Engine ,
and would and should indicate things like STRONG compression , and properly adjusted Valves Etc.....
I personally Use My YAZAKI Hand Held 52mm Vacuum Gauge when i set any timing in any Toyota Adjustable Timing vehical
I Set to factory spec's such as the CHROME BB on the F/ 2F Flywheel , Using a Traditional Timing Light method
Then , Refer to the Vacuum Gauge for the Final Adjustment and final Lock Down Bolt Tweek of the distributor
Its a Fine Tuning Method That Really Does Work ...................
Cool; I’m definitely not used to this world, so these insights are incredibly helpful.
One thing I noticed this morning (in the cool weather) is my truck was running remarkably well. I’m curious if an intake pipe off the air cleaner would help on the hotter days (it doesn’t currently have one).
- Thread starter
- #51
I wrap up the saga here:
Truck is back to normal, more or less. One of the key issues seemed to be an errantly disconnected vent line from the distributor (unsure how that happened).
I replaced the fuel cut-off solenoid, and it no longer diesels after shutoff, which is great; doesn't sound like I"m driving some old jalopy when I shut it off. And the other solenoid's head wasn't stuck in the carb, so I have no idea why the PO cut this one. Maybe the truck would die when letting off the gas?
I had some starting issues, both cold and hot for a bit. On first taking possession of the truck, I didn't have to leave the choke on at all once it was started, but now I do for only a little bit, then it's fine. I think this is pretty normal. Hot starting problems were related to the way I was starting the vehicle, and the fact that my carb cooling fan wasn't hooked up at all (the number of things simply turned off on this truck for no apparent reason...).
I still lack power in the midrange. I think that's related to my CARB-tuned carburetor. Not much I can do there, as Oregon follows CARB standards.
Anywho, thanks for all the help, everyone. I'm going to continue fixing up stuff on this truck for a while, so I'm sure you'll see more posts from me.
Truck is back to normal, more or less. One of the key issues seemed to be an errantly disconnected vent line from the distributor (unsure how that happened).
I replaced the fuel cut-off solenoid, and it no longer diesels after shutoff, which is great; doesn't sound like I"m driving some old jalopy when I shut it off. And the other solenoid's head wasn't stuck in the carb, so I have no idea why the PO cut this one. Maybe the truck would die when letting off the gas?
I had some starting issues, both cold and hot for a bit. On first taking possession of the truck, I didn't have to leave the choke on at all once it was started, but now I do for only a little bit, then it's fine. I think this is pretty normal. Hot starting problems were related to the way I was starting the vehicle, and the fact that my carb cooling fan wasn't hooked up at all (the number of things simply turned off on this truck for no apparent reason...).
I still lack power in the midrange. I think that's related to my CARB-tuned carburetor. Not much I can do there, as Oregon follows CARB standards.
Anywho, thanks for all the help, everyone. I'm going to continue fixing up stuff on this truck for a while, so I'm sure you'll see more posts from me.
