ICON Wheels?
- Thread starter mpho
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thats what the Expedion overland guys use on their 200's... so must be strong enough. not sure of the weight rating compared to stock?
Taco2Cruiser
Crazy American Off Road
Or the fact that XO is sponsored by Icon, they got them at a reduced price.
I admire the XO crew, but with the level of sponsorship they have earned (and I mean that, they earned it) I wouldn’t take the products they use as necessarily the best options available, but the best option for their situation.
Slee was rolling them on their LX570 last time I saw it, they look great and have a nice offset for the 200 IMO. I read somewhere(I'll try to find the link) they Icon was coming out with a version that would have a higher weight rating. If memory serves me the @AutoCraft Aus guys have some experience with this wheel, I could be wrong though?!?!
Here's the link with @AutoCraft Aus talking about Icon coming out with a higher weight rated version for use on their heavy 200's.
GVWR, how much can a 200 safely carry?
GVWR, how much can a 200 safely carry?
Not a reduced price, free. I have on very reliable sources not only do they demand everything they get is free, they also require $ contributions on top of that for sponsorships.
I have them on my 200. Wheeled them in Breckinridge and on some trails in UT and AZ. I like them, but at 116.5mm bore they are not hubcentric. I haven't had any real balance issues, even running 285/75R17 Nitto Ridge Grapplers, which are very heavy tires. They're not RWs, but I like the color and +25 offset.
I have a set of aluminum hubcentric rings I had custom made for $30 but the center caps on the Icons are push through so you can't use center caps and hubcentric rings at the same time. The center caps are 1mm thick and I've considered having hubcentric rings made 2mm smaller to ensure they are centered ok. Without balancing issues though I haven't bothered.
Other than not being hubcentric my only real complaint is that even though the center caps are push through they are a 2 piece design. The actual center cap is plastic and it clips onto the metal ring. I had one cap pop off on a trail. Icon was kind enough to send me a replacement for free. I used gorilla super glue on the other caps.
I have a set of aluminum hubcentric rings I had custom made for $30 but the center caps on the Icons are push through so you can't use center caps and hubcentric rings at the same time. The center caps are 1mm thick and I've considered having hubcentric rings made 2mm smaller to ensure they are centered ok. Without balancing issues though I haven't bothered.
Other than not being hubcentric my only real complaint is that even though the center caps are push through they are a 2 piece design. The actual center cap is plastic and it clips onto the metal ring. I had one cap pop off on a trail. Icon was kind enough to send me a replacement for free. I used gorilla super glue on the other caps.
AutoCraft Aus
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The centre caps all come glued now.
I think anyone who knows wheels can see where these wheels are made, and the bead inner and outer are a good design, and when I spoke wih Icon some time agao they were retesting for a 2800lb load rating on the 6 stud.
When you look at the outer lip it has no bolt on ring, its all one solid bit of alloy, making it very strong.
I am yet to have confirmation that has been completed.
When measuring the wheel thickness and design, as an 8 stud they come with a 3800lb load rating, with the 6 stud being the factor for less.
Because we build big heavy tourer set ups from 7000lb, all the way to 13,300lb on 6 wheelers, we want strong wheels, because for our outback touring on bad 2 wheel tracks at 40-70 mph running low 20s air pressure, you dont want rims that look like a stop sign, or worse.
Not many wheels are "hubcentric" these days.
I run them on my own vehicle.
I rate them as being as strong as the factory alloy wheel but with a better offset for bigger tyres.
I think anyone who knows wheels can see where these wheels are made, and the bead inner and outer are a good design, and when I spoke wih Icon some time agao they were retesting for a 2800lb load rating on the 6 stud.
When you look at the outer lip it has no bolt on ring, its all one solid bit of alloy, making it very strong.
I am yet to have confirmation that has been completed.
When measuring the wheel thickness and design, as an 8 stud they come with a 3800lb load rating, with the 6 stud being the factor for less.
Because we build big heavy tourer set ups from 7000lb, all the way to 13,300lb on 6 wheelers, we want strong wheels, because for our outback touring on bad 2 wheel tracks at 40-70 mph running low 20s air pressure, you dont want rims that look like a stop sign, or worse.
Not many wheels are "hubcentric" these days.
I run them on my own vehicle.
I rate them as being as strong as the factory alloy wheel but with a better offset for bigger tyres.
AutoCraft Aus
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There is also a new wheel "rebound" coming next month, should look good on a 200, as well.
Oh damn those look good, any idea of sizes and offset for the 200?There is also a new wheel "rebound" coming next month, should look good on a 200, as well.
AutoCraft Aus
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Not as yet, no details released, only a set on the Jeep at Sand show last weekend, then an image released during the week.
gaijin
GOLD Star
There is also a new wheel "rebound" coming next month, should look good on a 200, as well.
Ah..... If only the 200 had 6 lug wheels ...
gaijin
GOLD Star
I guess that means they can not be used in the stock spare tire location on the 200?
AutoCraft Aus
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No, the plastic cap in the inner steel cap, not into the wheel 
Mine came glued but the glue apparently loosened over about 5000 miles, I assume from heat or vibration. Once the glue loosened the center cap could be removed from the center ring. I feel you have these wheels I would check the center caps periodically and if you can turn the plastic cap while it’s still on the truck they need to be reglues. A few drops of gorilla glue on the plastic tabs so far has seemed to do the trick for me.
Mine fits in the spare location fine, even on 34s. The center cap is a 2 piece push through design and is removable
gaijin
GOLD Star
No, the plastic cap in the inner steel cap, not into the wheel
OK, got it! That makes sense.
AutoCraft Aus
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Yep, Im hoping the rebound has a bolt on cap looking at the pics, rather than a push through, save the gluing, and losing of the clip ons.
Also covers the holes slotted where the material is thin.
Also covers the holes slotted where the material is thin.
Running them for 6 months first with 285 70 17 BFG ATKO2's. Recently put on a full set of 285 75 17 Ridge Grapplers, very happy so far. I do hit the KDSS bars at full right lock, but it's not very often that happens.
My caps came off after a few high speed desert runs, but a previously mentioned, ICON set me a few to replace. They are all glued on with Loctite Extreme, supposed to be heat and shock resistant, only time will tell.
My caps came off after a few high speed desert runs, but a previously mentioned, ICON set me a few to replace. They are all glued on with Loctite Extreme, supposed to be heat and shock resistant, only time will tell.
My $0.02 - Icon needs to redesign the center caps used on the Six Speed wheels. The two-piece push through cap is dumb, and the lack of a hubcentric design makes no sense given the market is the LC and Tundra, both of which use a 110mm bore.
If they insist upon a push through design the metal ring should be thicker at the base to act as a hubcentric spacer so that they are guaranteed to align correctly. Really a bolt-on cap would best (and would allow use of aftermarket hubcentric spacers), but since the inner bore is smooth I don't know that they could retrofit something without changing the wheel.
If they insist upon a push through design the metal ring should be thicker at the base to act as a hubcentric spacer so that they are guaranteed to align correctly. Really a bolt-on cap would best (and would allow use of aftermarket hubcentric spacers), but since the inner bore is smooth I don't know that they could retrofit something without changing the wheel.
