I want to burn metal with FIRE!

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Sep 19, 2010
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Location
Pasadena, CA
I am just starting my first FJ40 project and know very little about what I am doing, but am very excited about figuring it out.

I have already found a few simple project that will require welding. Yeah! I have wanted to acquire this skill for sometime and now feel motivated to pull the trigger. This however is an other thing I know little to nothing about other than what I have seen on TV. My plan is to practice, practice, practice on scraps and then go for it!

Question: Which type of welder should I buy for automotive applications?

Advice and encouragement are much appreciated!:bounce2:
 
get a 220v mig. Lincoln or miller. Check craigslist. I got a new unopened lincoln for $375. In order to keep this thread going....what needs to be welded/repaired? Show us some pics.
 
I use a 120 lincoln mig, In case you do not have 220. It will do the job and is much more portable since you can use it anywhere and not forced to be near a 220. with 120 or 220 get once that will do wire welding with gas of flux cord. Like you said practice practice. Old lawn mower or edger blades are free to come buy and make both great practice material. Start with thick metal and practice then move to thinner metal and enjoy.
 
Lincoln is good.

I love my Miller (MM180) and plan to buy a Miller TIG at some point.

X2

I used a snapon 225 amp 220v machine for years but got tired of dragging it around the shop (its old and big).

So I got a Miller 180A 220v machine on craigslist with no bottle for $400. Figured I would still use the snapon for big stuff, wrong I just weld the big stuff with the MM180.


Please get a 220V machine. I have sat behind too many DIYers with ripped of spring hangers cuz they went cheap and got a 120V machine. And if you end up with a 120 machine, never use bigger than .023 wire.

Its so much easier to learn with a machine that will make some heat, not spit marbles at metal. Little current and dirty metal make noobs frustrated. Clean the weld area and use a 220v machine and you will have fun.

GET A MACHINE WITH A BOTTLE. Flux core is for tweekers to weld on scooters with.
 
I would avoid the Harbor Freight Century Welders. They work somewhat but are quick to die a horrible death:lol:

YES YES YES. Junk! Most have hot wire at all times too, making it hard to weld even if you have experience.

Dont buy hardware store welders or harbor freight or dollar store welders.

You get what you pay for, JUNK.

If its not a miller, lincoln or hobart then stay away from it.
 
X2

I used a snapon 225 amp 220v machine for years but got tired of dragging it around the shop (its old and big).

So I got a Miller 180A 220v machine on craigslist with no bottle for $400. Figured I would still use the snapon for big stuff, wrong I just weld the big stuff with the MM180.


Please get a 220V machine. I have sat behind too many DIYers with ripped of spring hangers cuz they went cheap and got a 120V machine. And if you end up with a 120 machine, never use bigger than .023 wire.

Its so much easier to learn with a machine that will make some heat, not spit marbles at metal. Little current and dirty metal make noobs frustrated. Clean the weld area and use a 220v machine and you will have fun.

GET A MACHINE WITH A BOTTLE. Flux core is for tweekers to weld on scooters with.

110V machines and fluxcore can make very strong welds in metal up to about 1/8" thick. All it takes is practice.

The difference between Flux core and Wire feed with a gas comes down to preference. The gas helps a lot with cleanup (depending on mix). But the Flux core gets a lot more penetration.

Up to you honestly. If you weld outside, Flux core is a hell of a lot better. Gas just blows away..
 
I went from an arc welder to mig welder.



Arc welding is a bit of a challenge to take up. But it is a cheaper machine to get into.

unless you are oxy welding, it's all arc welding.
 
The best way to learn is to get someone who is very good at it to show you some tricks, and guide you along.
You wouldn't believe how much you can improve with liitle time and help from someone like that.
 
I love my Miller 180 with C25. I wired my shop for 220 at both ends and made a 10 foot extension cable from the thickest wiring I could find (want to say 00 gauge?) to keep resistance down and so I could reach both ends of the shop with the machine. I use it more than my inverter TIG, mostly because it's quicker and I've got the TIG set for plasma cutting at the moment.

Really as long as it's a Miller, Lincoln, or Hobart you'll be okay. A friend has a Clarke and I believe they're more popular in Europe but I wasn't too impressed with the machine's cheap gas line and regulator.
 
BTW, I LOVE my ESAB, but finding parts for it is a PITA.
 
I started out with a 120V MIG. Added a Lincoln stick welder for heavier stuff. Eventually upgraded from that to a 220V MIG and 220V TIG. But the MIG/Stick combination worked for a lot of years and you can likely find both for under $500 total in the classifieds either from people upgrading or who bought it and never used it much.

The 220V MIG is much nicer than working with the 120V unit, even on the little stuff. But you have to start somewhere and I'd rather go with used name brands than buy a new HF unit.
 
flux core is a MUST if you plan on welding galvanized or outside where there is lots of wind, or welding dirty/rusty metal. Wear a quality respirator when doing this.
 
BTW, I LOVE my ESAB, but finding parts for it is a PITA.

What parts are you going to need? Your Migmaster 250 will most likely last forever like my Millermatic 200..
 
My Migmaster 250 is set up for 220V to run 035 wire (w/gas) for anything thicker than 16 ga. metal, my Lincoln is a little 130 SP that's 110v, I have it set up for gas and .023 wire for thin stiff (sheet metal), so I got the thin and thick stuff covered so I don't have to change wire etc., now.. I just change welders. I have found parts for the migmaster here in Austin, Tx at Praxair and also Alamo Welding supply. But I think FJ40 Charles knows of a website to find things a little cheaper possibly.
 
why not run it in the real welder?

If you mean the ESAB..
Cause the ESAB was setup to run gas when I got it.
I prefer not having to clean off slag.
The ESAB does not weld outside. (big reason)
And I get plenty of penetration without going to flux-core.

Actually, I am contemplating going with a dual-shield wire in the ESAB for the weld quality. That is using flux-core wire with gas...

Also, I have a roll of .035 flux core wire sitting on the ESAB just in case I run out of gas on a Sunday and need to keep welding..
 

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