I think its time for a trans flush

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Dec 11, 2007
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Car has just reached 80k and I do not know the history of the trans fluid. Although I do not suspect any problems with the trans, I figure changing the fluid can't hurt. I do notice sometimes when I am rolling and I press on the gas I get a small clunk, but i think this may be a MM or TM from what I have read...

I adjusted the kickdown cable when I was getting the rev from 2nd to 3rd and it worked great. Thanks to the people that gave me that info...
 
so this is not accurate?

"The difference between a flush and fluid change is. A flush uses a machine that pulls the old fluid out while it pumps new fluid in. It usually does this through a [COLOR=green ! important][FONT=Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,MS Sans Serif][COLOR=green ! important][FONT=Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,MS Sans Serif]transmission [/FONT][COLOR=green ! important][FONT=Verdana,Tahoma,Arial,MS Sans Serif]cooler[/FONT][/COLOR][/FONT][/COLOR][/COLOR] hose so you do not remove anthing from the transmission to do this. If you do a fluid change most avg mechanics. Remove the transmisson pan and dump the fluid out and then refill it. The benefit of the flush is it removes all the old fluid where the fluid change does leave a small amount of old fluid in the transmission. I would ask for a flush that removes all the old fluid but ask them not to use any chemical or additives. Typically when you do a flush you add chemicals but you can flush the trans without them."
 
There is a method called a Fluid Exchange. This also gets all the old fluid out in one sitting. The difference with this is it uses the transmissions own pump where the flush uses an external pump at higher pressure. It is less likely that a particle or gunk will get lodged where it shouldn't using the transmissions own pump. This also does not require dropping of the pan.


So if you go to a shop ask if they are doing a flush or an exchange.
 
A fluid exchange is the way to go if you don't know the history of the existing fluid. It ran me @ $30 and I provided the fluid.

I am a big proponant of synthetic ATF. It provided a noticeable improvement in my trucks shifting.

:cheers:
 
Do a search as there is an excellent write up on DIY'ing it. It couldn't be simpler to do and it'll save you some decent $$ with good results.

I replaced mine at around 142k (no svc. history avail.) and noticed smoother shifting right away. The color change alone was pretty remarkable.
 
<SNIP>
This also does not require dropping of the pan.


So if you go to a shop ask if they are doing a flush or an exchange.


You WANT the pan to be dropped.
You want to clean/change (can't remember if these trannies have a screen or replaceable filter) the filter and inspect the debris that's in the pan.
Any place that doesn't drop the pan and change/clean the filter is simply doing you a huge dis-service.



Fred
 
My procedure is to add LubeGard's tranny flush/cleaner product before a complete fluid exchange using Mobil 1 synthetic ATF. Key words being complete exchange. Some shops, including some Toy dealers, do not do a complete fluid exchange IME, so half the cleaner they put in before the service remains in the tranny. Ditto; much better shifting after that service using synthetic ATF.
 
OK...Let me get this straight. Do I do a fluid change or fluid flush? I have 136000 miles on mine with no history, either. If i took my 80 to AAMCO I would tell them to flush the trans without additives and chemicles and use synthetic ATF?? I'm no mechanic and i don't have the equipment to do this if i read up on the DIY thread
 
OK...Let me get this straight. Do I do a fluid change or fluid flush? I have 136000 miles on mine with no history, either. If i took my 80 to AAMCO I would tell them to flush the trans without additives and chemicles and use synthetic ATF?? I'm no mechanic and i don't have the equipment to do this if i read up on the DIY thread

Tell them you want a "fluid exchange", not a flush, and, you want the pan dropped and the filter replaced (or cleaned if it's a screen type). That'll give you/them a chance to see what's in the pan.
Don't let them sell you anything (like a re-build) because there's debris in the pan. Some debris is perfectly normal.
You could take a camera with you and take a photo of whatever's in the pan and post it up, if they try to sell you a re-build.
I owned a transmission shop for several years ;)
Synthetic ATF is well worth the money, however it would be, probably, a fair amount cheaper if you bought the ATF yourself and had them use it, if they'll let you do that.
Some shops won't.



:)
Fred
 
Tell them you want a "fluid exchange", not a flush, and, you want the pan dropped and the filter replaced (or cleaned if it's a screen type). That'll give you/them a chance to see what's in the pan.
Don't let them sell you anything (like a re-build) because there's debris in the pan. Some debris is perfectly normal.
You could take a camera with you and take a photo of whatever's in the pan and post it up, if they try to sell you a re-build.
I owned a transmission shop for several years ;)
Synthetic ATF is well worth the money, however it would be, probably, a fair amount cheaper if you bought the ATF yourself and had them use it, if they'll let you do that.
Some shops won't.



:)
Fred



So you wouldn't recommend a flush? when would i have to do that?
 
I had a shop do a flush for me about 15k miles ago. The fluid was looking alright, and afterwards, there was no noticeable improvements, but the reason I did it was cause they also changed the pan gasket and inspected the lower parts of the transmission.
 
So you wouldn't recommend a flush? when would i have to do that?

A "flush" is just them charging you $40 to add a quart of $5 cleaner before they do the fluid exchage.

A "flush" is not what you really want. Reread FredTJ's post. This is exactly what you are after.
 
As far as I know, pulling the tranny plug on these cleans the tranny filters from the way it is setup.
 
ok so we're talking about transmissions...now what about the transfer case? differentials?
 
ok so we're talking about transmissions...now what about the transfer case? differentials?
They're easy.
Pop the check plug, note the level of the fluid (full if it dribbles out or if it's even with the bottom of plug hole) and the condition of it (color, smell, etc). Note if there is a hissing or pop when you open the check plug, this means your breathers are clogged.

Pop the drain plug and drain

Flush a bit through if you have a fluid gun (I do, or did at work)

Close the drain plug

Fill the box until it's dripping, close it up once it's done dripping a lot.

Close the check plug

Finished.

I use 80-90 GL5 in all boxes. They all have 24mm plugs stock. My experience is that the tcase and rear diff are good for extended intervals, but the front diff gets contaminated easily and I change it frequently.
 
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I was under the impression that the t-case fluid was also the same fluid that goes in the transmission.


So just draining and filling the transmission would also get the fluid in the t-case.



Is that the case? Or am I a moron? Well. We know I'm a moron. But still. Why did I think that?
 
I was under the impression that the t-case fluid was also the same fluid that goes in the transmission.


So just draining and filling the transmission would also get the fluid in the t-case.



Is that the case? Or am I a moron? Well. We know I'm a moron. But still. Why did I think that?
Well, some setups are like this - the LC is not. It's common on AWD cars and I know some 4runners have tcases integrated with the automatic transmission and share fluid.
Some transfer cases take ATF, this may have confused you.
 

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