I replaced the alternator brush kit before it wears out (1 Viewer)

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I replaced the alternator brush kit today. I believe the alternator is OEM, so does the brush kit.

Steps to remove the alternator
IMPORTANT: Disconnet the battery
Drained the coolant and removed the coolant reservoir tank
Removed the air cleaner box
Took lower radiator hose off at the thermostat housing
Removed the power steering pump and its reservoir (just move it out of the way, no need to remove power steering fluid or disconnect any hose)
NOTE: the wire plug was pretty tight fit to the alternator. I pressed in the tab on the wire plug and with a 90 degree pick tool, I carefully pried it against the alternator body on two opposite ends and yes, it worked!!
Pulled the alternator from the top.

Installation:
Make sure to apply some DIELECTRIC grease to the wire plug to prevent any corrosion and to ease the removal of wire plug next time.

See the size of the old brushes, I'd say about 30% is left. From this 30% only about 15% may be usable. Glad I decided to R&R the brush kit.

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Great write up thanks. Probably similar to the Nippon Denso starters, all that wears is the plunger and contacts!
 
On the reman units I have came across in my corolla they rarely replace the brushes in them. i have replaced that thing 3 times. it's much cheaper to just replace the brushes on the OEM unit and go on down the road. As long as the bearings aren't making any noise... Those brush holders can be had for under $10 on ebay. Just have to find the correct one. I'd suspect the 2 contact terminals are on the same plane for this one.
 
I've been driving toyotas since 1990 and all the toyotas we have got still runs on factory alternator and starter. The only thing that get replaced is the brush kit (stay with OEM to get the 14.4 volts, aftermarket does not give this voltage) and starter solenoid contacts.

The OEM brush kit is about $16 at Camelback toyota
 
Is it pretty self explanatory pulling it apart and replacing? I am planning the timing belt in a few months and this would be fairly easy to access while I have it all apart. I have 145K and I believe it is the original alternator.
 
Yes. Just replace the alternator brush kit. I am at 230Kmiles. I did the timing belt alone and first time on a cruiser.
 
A few years ago at 200k I replaced my alternator with 12v 100 amp reman Denso OEM unit. Currently at 320k and I have my front end apart for timing belt, radiator, fan bracket, valve covers, various hoses and "while I'm in there" refresh. Wondering if the brush for the 80 amp unit (part #27370-75060) is the same fitment for the 100 amp unit? Thanks for any assistance on this.
 
I believe so. My 92 corolla, 97 4runner and 00 cruiser uses the same brush kit.
 
I’ve found it a very worthwhile thing to do. Hardest not is getting the alternator out - I’m theory you could do it in Situ (on a 1hz, not an fte no idea about 2uz). It’s good to have some sort digital gauge - my old hzj105 ran at 14.1v cold down to 13.8-14.9 hot. Then it started going to 13.8 cold down to 13.5 hot. Did the bushes (pretty worn down but not 100%) and it shot up to 14.2-14.3 cold, 13.9 hot. When I put the fte in my 105 I did the brushes as a pre emotive as it’s so tightly packed around the alternator I didn’t want to pull it out ever, and at 395k I assumed they’d be past their best. Again I get 14.2 cold and 13.9 hot. Voltages measured from the aux battery in cab once the vsr has switched over, more like 14.4v+ at the alternator when warm at idle. I always use OEX aftermarket brushes as they’re cheap and easy to get.

When I had an alternator (original) fail completely (no charge) on a 1992 hzj75 recently new brushes had it good as new again.

If you ever have the alternator out and they haven’t been done recently do them!
 
Just did the same thing a month ago. 100% agree on trying this before trading in your nice-but-broken core for a working-but-crappy reman. After 171k miles the brushes were shot. I gained a small amount of voltage, enough to put it back within the range I wanted, albeit still on the low side. I'm happy enough with that.
 
^ Did you use an oem brush kit? You also have to get the brushes to wear a bit to make fully contact with the armature.
 
^ Did you use an oem brush kit? You also have to get the brushes to wear a bit to make fully contact with the armature.
Could brand new brushes result in lower voltage while they settle in? I just replaced mine with the OEM kit and the older ones were worn to make better contact. However, I am getting a lower reading now (about 13.68) than I had before.
 
I had about the same voltage after the replacement. Probably due to less contact with the armature.
 
Did you notice any whine in your alternator or just a drop in the voltage?
 

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