I need some help with wheel bearings

[KC100series]

So today I decided to tackle my front wheel bearings. There was definitely an attempt at least. I'm 6 hours in and have nothing to show for it.

On the DS, I was able to get everything disassembled, all of the old bearings and races out. Reassembled everything, put the drive flange back on and the CV shaft isn't extended far enough out to get a snap ring on it. I disassembled again, ensured the new races were completely seated, reassembled and same thing

So I figure I'll disassemble the PS and have a look at a known good side... well, I get the adjusting and lock not off, and outer wheel bearing, but the rotor and hub seem to be stuck on the spindle or something is holding it on. I can move the rotor and hub forward about 1" and that's all the movement I can get. Tried everything I could think of, but it does not want to slide off of the spindle.

Any ideas? Or should I just convert it to a 2wd haha

 

[AimCOtaco]

If you got a lot of grease into the cv axle bushing (inside the spindle) then you will usually have this problem (and you should lube this area while you're in there).

I made a tool just for this but really all you need is to thread an M8 bolt into the end of the cv stub and use a lever to pull it out further. My tool is just a 1/2" square tube with an 8mm hole in it that I work over a lug nut to pull the CV outward.

EDIT: And on the second side it sounds like you've come up against the hub seal perhaps but a solid tug should do it unless I'm not following you correctly.

 

[KC100series]

Hmm, I was using a puller and got a metallic think when I had it pulled out, but that was as far out as the CV shaft would go.

On the PS, I pulled on it in various manners for a good 30 minutes and even tried tapping the rotor from the back side with a hammer and rotating it after every tap. The drivers side came off immediately and effortlessly

 

[reznunt]

What AimCOtaco said... thread in a bolt into the end of the shaft and find some leverage and pry it out. I just put a prybar on the top of one of the studs and underneath the lip of the head of the bolt you thread into the shaft. Some gentle prying/levering and it should seat just fine.

 

[KC100series]

Well I will definitely give that a shot. Thanks to both of you for the replies. I had to give up on it for the day and come back to it tomorrow. Hopefully she wants to cooperate more then

 

[Jeepster09]

I was able to just push on axle from back side and it slid out far enough. I did mine last week.

 

[KC100series]

That was the very first thing I tried. I went in with so much confidence and 4 separate printouts of methods for bearings. Then I failed completely. I have never had the land cruiser humble me more than today

 

[Trunk Monkey]

For the PS grab the rotor at 3 and 9 and give it a good yank straight towards you. As a trick you can also thread on one spindle nut loosely and then pull it, if done right it will pop the rear bearing and seal off. Those are some nice work socks too.

 

[aljollano]

It almost sounds like you may have a lot of grease on the passenger side that is creating vacuum. Just pull with cojones!!

A.J

 

[bwell]

How bad was the front end howling or shaking prior to disassembly? -That's kind of a dumb question as you are still trying to get it apart on that one side. Do as others have stated with the stub shaft.

However, the only way that inner bearing is still holding rotor on is if there is some sort of groove warn in to the spindle itself, or has come apart in which case it would be very awkward or hard to rotate rotor. Though not preferred you might try using a piece of wood(to protect the spindle and a leverage point)and a prybar to lift up on the inside part of the rotor to see if you can get over whatever that inner bearing is catching on, on the spindle itself. Hopefully I articulated that okay, just my