2000 LX470 - sitting 5 years - In Georgia USA. I need some help. How to check if engine is seized? (2 Viewers)

[Trunk Monkey]

No ABS codes tied to the seats, you're fine to unplug/plug them with the battery connected. Be a really good time to put some sound deadening material all over too, esp. the cargo area. For the batting, look up automotive jute backing. OEM is probably available too.

 

[Super77]

No ABS codes tied to the seats, you're fine to unplug/plug them with the battery connected. Be a really good time to put some sound deadening material all over too, esp. the cargo area. For the batting, look up automotive jute backing. OEM is probably available too.

Was thinking the OP may eventually get to the seat belts, which, if mold is an issue, are probably a horror show. Unplugging the pretensioner squib would throw a code, no?

I’m honestly kind of jealous looking at this project. Landing a nice rig for a fair price is one thing, but getting one cheap enough to just renew everything and knowing that you’re not over investing really makes it feel special.

 

[Zuberg]

Nice work - totally worth the work to get it looking fresh again. Any quality carpet or rug store will be able to sell you jute underlayment. I used that in prior vehicles with solid results. On my 100 I've been using this (which is shockingly cheaper than quality jute from my local carpet stores these days....):

Under Carpet Lite™ Sound Absorption & Insulation - 70" x 24" (11.6 sq. ft.)

Under Carpet Lite is a superior sound decoupling material for those hard to cover areas like door liners, rear decks, headliners and more.

www.designengineering.com

Made in USA and when you call the company a stateside employee answers! Highly recommend them. Underlayment works great on the roof as well - just get some 3m spray adhesive.

For the center console metal bits, clean prime and rattlecan. For whatever reason they came bare metal from Mr. T and every one of those brackets in every truck probably has some level of rust at this point.

 

[MissTake]

You’ll get ABS codes if you disconnect any of the system before disconnecting the battery, but in an early truck like yours the codes in an otherwise functional can be DIY cleared with a paper clip and a couple of wires at the engine bay diagnostic port.

No ABS codes tied to the seats, you're fine to unplug/plug them with the battery connected. Be a really good time to put some sound deadening material all over too, esp. the cargo area. For the batting, look up automotive jute backing. OEM is probably available too.

Copy that. I was hoping i didn't some how confuse the (ECU?) of the vehicle. I've seen people saying you disconnect and wait 30 minutes, then other camps that just say fully D/C before you do. I mean whatever is done is done now. Will update post for the record though.

Was thinking the OP may eventually get to the seat belts, which, if mold is an issue, are probably a horror show. Unplugging the pretensioner squib would throw a code, no?

I’m honestly kind of jealous looking at this project. Landing a nice rig for a fair price is one thing, but getting one cheap enough to just renew everything and knowing that you’re not over investing really makes it feel special.

Seatbelts are definitely not supposed to be feces brown, I made a clean spot and figured that out. I thought they were like medium brown as a color, but nope. (you can see it in the pics) I plan to extend all the way powerwash with simple green and a APC cleaner. Dont be too jealous and keep an eye on this thread.. who knows how far i'll get. And I cant really haggle on here as everyone knows the history -- lol. But hopefully i'll get it all going. Should I be disconnecting the squib to pull all the way out, shut door, and power wash them?

Nice work - totally worth the work to get it looking fresh again. Any quality carpet or rug store will be able to sell you jute underlayment. I used that in prior vehicles with solid results. On my 100 I've been using this (which is shockingly cheaper than quality jute from my local carpet stores these days....):

Under Carpet Lite™ Sound Absorption & Insulation - 70" x 24" (11.6 sq. ft.)

Under Carpet Lite is a superior sound decoupling material for those hard to cover areas like door liners, rear decks, headliners and more.

www.designengineering.com

Made in USA and when you call the company a stateside employee answers! Highly recommend them. Underlayment works great on the roof as well - just get some 3m spray adhesive.

For the center console metal bits, clean prime and rattlecan. For whatever reason they came bare metal from Mr. T and every one of those brackets in every truck probably has some level of rust at this point.

Thank you for this. I figure since its all at this stage, might as well. Just trying to at least get carpet done while I can still air dry stuff outside. Its going to start raining again soon. When you say clean prime and rattlecan, is that a product? Clean Prime? Sorry for the basic questions, im figuring this all out as I go along.

 

[Zuberg]

I was a bit hasty in my response. Clean the metal, prime it, then paint it. I think I did a quick pass with the wire wheel, coat of phosphoric acid to convert the rust. Then paint.

I know a lot of folks have success with the power washer on the seatbelts. A more gentle approach is to soak the belts in some cleaner - I use LA awesome cleaner diluted in hot water. After they soak a bit, use a steam cleaner to wash all the crud out. Remove the top belt holder from the B and C pillars and you can get most of the belt into the bucket.

 

[Super77]

I was a bit hasty in my response. Clean the metal, prime it, then paint it. I think I did a quick pass with the wire wheel, coat of phosphoric acid to convert the rust. Then paint.

I know a lot of folks have success with the power washer on the seatbelts. A more gentle approach is to soak the belts in some cleaner - I use LA awesome cleaner diluted in hot water. After they soak a bit, use a steam cleaner to wash all the crud out. Remove the top belt holder from the B and C pillars and you can get most of the belt into the bucket.

+1 on seatbelts. Don’t power wash them. Mine cleaned up nice with a couple of successive soaks in dish detergent water and a pass with a soft bristled brush.