I might have killed my Orion

[peesalot]

as far as gear engagement of new gears with old collar , the dogteeth on new gears are smaller so yes there is less material to mesh with.
The lock tab bolt that retains the shift rail , what poser is saying is the heighth of that surface determines shift collar position.
We have established that new collar is prolly best.
Other than that it is runnin very well , super quiet when crawling.
leaked out the rear output when I put man a fre's disc e-brake on , thats is off now and waiting for shipping to Honk . Only thing I don't like is you get 0 wheel speed in first and second now so climbing slippery stuff will be fun .

 

[green73]

Just got my Orion assembled last night. A/A didn't send instructions So, I mostly winged it. It seems to spin and shift okay. I do have a question after reading this thread. Was I supposed to re-use the shifter fork shaft, or use one of the supplied "specially machined" bolts in its place? Damn I wish I would have gotten instructions! Gonna call A/A Monday!

Also, on the large diameter primary gear shaft. I slapped it with a plastic deadblow hammer, and broke the tab off. Yeah that wasn't the smartest thing I have ever done. My question here is, Can I put a couple of tack welds on there, or an I screwed? hopefully a tack weld will work.

 

[honk]

as far as gear engagement of new gears with old collar , the dogteeth on new gears are smaller so yes there is less material to mesh with.
The lock tab bolt that retains the shift rail , what poser is saying is the heighth of that surface determines shift collar position.
We have established that new collar is prolly best.
Other than that it is runnin very well , super quiet when crawling.
leaked out the rear output when I put man a fre's disc e-brake on , thats is off now and waiting for shipping to Honk . Only thing I don't like is you get 0 wheel speed in first and second now so climbing slippery stuff will be fun .

WHAT?! I get an oil soaked brake??

 

[Poser]

Just got my Orion assembled last night. A/A didn't send instructions So, I mostly winged it. It seems to spin and shift okay. I do have a question after reading this thread. Was I supposed to re-use the shifter fork shaft, or use one of the supplied "specially machined" bolts in its place? Damn I wish I would have gotten instructions! Gonna call A/A Monday!

Also, on the large diameter primary gear shaft. I slapped it with a plastic deadblow hammer, and broke the tab off. Yeah that wasn't the smartest thing I have ever done. My question here is, Can I put a couple of tack welds on there, or an I screwed? hopefully a tack weld will work.

AA dropped the ball by not sending you instructions, but they are on thier web site about the Orions...Very nice pictures and detailed instructions...


http://www.advanceadapters.com/orion.html


Have you checked you counter shaft orings? Was your cluster gear that rides on that counter shaft installed when you recieved your case? If so, I would slide that shaft out just a bit, and install new orings, as ALL the orings that AA installed on the cases that I recieved from them have been cut. MAKE SURE you lube those orings WELL before installing them, and driving the shaft back into the case....




Good lucK!


-Steve

 

[treerootCO]

didn't get a chance to pull the cover today...

 

[green73]

Crap! I didn't think they'd have the instructions online. Now I really do feel stupid. Looks like everything is okay though. The countershaft was installed by A/A, and that is what I broke the groove/tab off of (I guess that is what you'd call it). I am going to call A/A and see If I can get a replacement from them I think. I am betting it is'n gonna be cheap. Thanks "Poser" for the heads-up on the instructions.

I wonder if I can replace that shaft without disassembeling the case? Any input here?

 

[green73]

Good news from A/A. They are sending me a new cluster shaft, at a good price. Now I don't have to press with the idea of welding on the one I broke.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Poser, when checked your o-rings, did you move the shaft both ways, towards front and back to view both o-rings? I replaced my front side one that was in several pieces, but I wasn't sure if moving the newly replaced front o-ring would be clipped when moved back to front after checking rear side. I was under the impression that to see the o-ring on one side would bring the opposite o-ring inside the case. If that's the case, even with chamfering on the inside edge, my money's on the o-ring getting clipped as it moves from inside the case to inside its bore. I know I had to cram the front o-ring here and there from the outside as I tapped it back into place to keep it from getting cut.

 

[Poser]

I wonder if I can replace that shaft without disassembeling the case? Any input here?

This is what I would do:


Tap the shaft forward enough to remove the o-ring, and then throw it away. Then tap the shaft rearward, towards the side of the case where the little tab retains the shaft, and as the other shaft is sliding out, I would have the new shaft follow the old one right through. I would block the case up on a workbench or floor so that you will be working with the countershaft going strait up and down, so that the thrust washer inside the case does not want to move and possibly get hung up in one of the o-ring grooves on the shafts. Go slowly. If something starts to bind, you do not want to force it. Should not be a problem.




Blue77fj40:



The boss area in the case where the o-rings seal the countershaft to the housing appears wide enough in that area, that tapping the shaft forward and aft to expose the o-ring groove for replacement of the o-ring, will not allow the opposite o-ring to come out of its sealing boss on the inside, and cause damage to it. You would have to drive the shaft out considerably further than needed to get the o-ring to bind on the inner part of the case.



Good luck!


-Steve

 

[1Fine40]

So, I'm gathering from what is being said in this thread, that you have to: 1) get a new shift collar and , 2) if possible, get a new output shaft for fresh virgin splines; and 3) watch very critically the detents in the shift rail to be sure they line up in the proper spots to allow full tooth engagement with the shift collar, gear dog teeth and output shaft splines. Does this sound right?? And as Poser mentioned, check your O-rings! Gonna try to assemble mine this month as soon as I get a new output shaft....(which Toyota gracefully discontinued making... )

 

[Poser]

Sounds right to me.


Contact Randy at AA, he might be able to help you locate a shaft...Toyota stopped making them, but I think that they are available aftermarket outside the USA still...



Good luck!


-Steve

 

[1Fine40]

Thanks man! (the only time i will thank someone for getting me the shaft>>>>heh.)

Cheers!

 

[green73]

It never ceases to amaze me how simple a solution can be. I had never even concidered turining the t-case, so that the cluster shaft is pointing up and down. All the while doing this I'll be replacing the seals as recommended.

 

[Poser]

We have to use our friend gravity to our advantage as much as possible...


Congrats on the tranny! You will LOVE it in front of the Orion.



Good luck!



-Steve

 

[pontiota]

I wish someone would have mentioned the idler shaft O-rings a while back AA installed mine ( it must have been one of the first ones because my buddy got his uninstalled and his case # was only 9 #'s newer) and after sitting in the garage all winter I finally installed it a couple weeks ago and sure enough its seeping out of the front of the shaft.
A little pissed at AA to say the least, I hate leaks they might have thought they were doing me a favor instead they are going to cause me more work
Other than that like the case
very quiet and verrrrrry slow

 

[treerootCO]

I installed the o-rings on mine and there are no leaks yet. I also like to soak the paper gaskets in water until they sink (about a minute) and install them without any kind of sealer. So far I haven't had any leaks.

 

[Poser]

I wish someone would have mentioned the idler shaft O-rings a while back AA installed mine ( it must have been one of the first ones because my buddy got his uninstalled and his case # was only 9 #'s newer) and after sitting in the garage all winter I finally installed it a couple weeks ago and sure enough its seeping out of the front of the shaft.
A little pissed at AA to say the least, I hate leaks they might have thought they were doing me a favor instead they are going to cause me more work
Other than that like the case
very quiet and verrrrrry slow

I did mention it a while back....


AA was not really trying to do anyone any favors, more, they were making sure that the case was machined enough to fit the two thrust washers and the counter gears, as there were a couple cases that did not end up being opened up enough for the gearset to drop in, or for it to fit between the thrusts inside the case...



What is your case #


-Steve

 

[pontiota]

The Case I ended up with was # 91 If I remember right
Long story short the first Case I got from AA was # 63 but it had a casting flaw so AA exchanged it for a new case both cases had the idler installed but my buddies case is # 54 and it was empty


I like the soaking the gasket idea never heard that one before I usually install mine dry or with the flexable permatex never any problems with leaking

 

[Poser]

ttt

 

[treerootCO]

I'll see if I can pull the tcase this Saturday