Some more pics:
I designed some sliders for my 60
- Thread starter 5280Hawk
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NTSQD, I like your second to last gusset. I think it has the best torsional strength of the designs you showed.
It would be my personal choice as well.
What's the deal with the circle cut out in the fist picture on post number 21? Were you thinking of fish eye welds?
A sequence of holes to allow for Rosette welds instead of welding the vertical sides of the plate. Not as effective at spreading out the load (as such a plate is intended to do), but sometimes the best option.
FWIW, I went with the Marlin sliders (midified to fit the 60)...Anyway, its .120 wall stuff, and I had the whole passenger side come down on top of a boulder on the Rubicon last year. I was pleasantly surprised to find that nothing cracked, broke or dented (including my welds
) and it was a really NASTY hit.
Just to lend some real world experience to the resilliance of the .120 wall steel.
Pics look great, but as someone mentioned above, its nice to have the sliders extend OUT to help keep obstacles away from the body, and it can also be used as a pivot for the tight turns.
Chicago
) and it was a really NASTY hit.Just to lend some real world experience to the resilliance of the .120 wall steel.
Pics look great, but as someone mentioned above, its nice to have the sliders extend OUT to help keep obstacles away from the body, and it can also be used as a pivot for the tight turns.
Chicago
When I get around to this part of my build (at current progress, about 2037... ) I plan to extend them out far enough that my GF can use them as a narrow running board. Not excessive, but far enough for this use. I'm thinking to cover the tops with some of the boat deck grip tape. If anyone has done this I'd be interested in feed-back on the gritty type vs. the non-gritty type.
That was my initial thot as well. What prompts considering the non-grit version is thinking about climbing under the 60 and using the sliders as hand-holds to hoist myself under and out. The grit type can be hard on bare flesh, but I worry that the non-grit will be OK when wet (should be) but not so OK when muddy.
if it hasn't been said... avoid vertical welds on the frame. The vertical welds "could" cause a weak point in your frame and could crack. Since the weight of the truck and the flex would break vertically this is why I was told to not weld that way. Instead circular or diamonds work. I'd rather make bolt on sliders myself.
i used 1/4" wall for the main 2x4 sliders like i said above, but also wanted to add that I used 1/8 2x4 tubing to extend down to the frame, with rectangular 1/4" thick plates on the frame with vertical welds. used three outriggers per side, and no gussets. I've beat the crap out of them on rocks an they've done great. I have dropped onto them from a few feet up A LOT. I left about a 3/8" gap between the body and slider and wish i'd gone with more of a gap. it has not changed at all, and has never touched. Just make sure your welds are good... not an easy task on your back tucked under the rocker.
I've even winched off of them.
just more input for ya.
I've even winched off of them.
just more input for ya.
great experienced input. I learn something every day.
Brownbear, thanks for the vertical welds input. That should keep me out of trouble in the future.
- Thread starter
- #35
Thank you all so much. I am planning to start these as soon as i get the proceeds from the OT ive been working. I think i'll go 3/16" thickness, w. peices of 2x2 angle cut for the gussets, and Diamond shaped mounting plates,
oh yeah, and 3M grip tape on top for getting in and out/standing on.
I'll post a revised Drawing as well.
oh yeah, and 3M grip tape on top for getting in and out/standing on.
I'll post a revised Drawing as well.
- Thread starter
- #36
OK, i changed the mount Plate a bit to help with the frame strength issue. I can't get too crazy with the angle on the plate because of the outrigger tube location, but any angle here will help i think.
and upon further review, i changed the gussets to 1/2" plate. They wont go anywhere, especailly on the 3/8" ourtrigger.
I changed the view of the model to try to show the clearance of the slider past the body. Measured on the model, it comes out about 3" past the body on the Horizontal plane. Also, I want them to be low profile, and as Chris said, my experience in CO and Utah, has been that you get hit from Below more often that not.
Thanks again guys, I will post up more photos once i start cutting and Welding!
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One further suggestion that has little to do with strength, but makes the welding go a little easier. Don't take the gusset to a sharp corner. leave the end 90* up off whatever you welding it to by a little more than what you expect the height of the weld bead to be, then radius it into the taper.
The reason for doing it this way is that the sharp corner will 'burn back' when welding resulting in not much penetration into the gusset because there isn't any gusset there! Also, in places where it's visible, it tends to look more finished and not a knobbly in that portion of the weld bead.
The reason for doing it this way is that the sharp corner will 'burn back' when welding resulting in not much penetration into the gusset because there isn't any gusset there! Also, in places where it's visible, it tends to look more finished and not a knobbly in that portion of the weld bead.
Regarding welding to the frame: I have bolt-on SROR sliders that have taken a beating as previously mentioned. They haven't moved at all since the install, I have even lifted the entire truck off the ground using just the sliders. I also like the option of taking something off if I ever need to go to a different truck. Just my 2¢.
- Thread starter
- #39
I have a quick update -
I got some cutting and welding done, but its been tough with the cold weather and Christmas coming quick! All the kids Christmas shopping is finally Done!
I changed the cut angles to 30 degrees.
After welding the caps on
Here's a shot of the Mock up i made out of some cardboard 2x2 and 2x4, im using it the verify the clearance for the body and frame, ect.
Here's a shot for you with the basket re-mounted! I had it off while i was doing body work this last year.
I should be able to get some more done after Christmas
I got some cutting and welding done, but its been tough with the cold weather and Christmas coming quick! All the kids Christmas shopping is finally Done!
I changed the cut angles to 30 degrees.
After welding the caps on
Here's a shot of the Mock up i made out of some cardboard 2x2 and 2x4, im using it the verify the clearance for the body and frame, ect.
Here's a shot for you with the basket re-mounted! I had it off while i was doing body work this last year.
I should be able to get some more done after Christmas
