I could use some advice (1 Viewer)

[mwebfj60]

The PO had sprayed some type of oil/coating all over the undercarriage..in the door panels...pretty much anywhere they could that wasn't painted blue. It worked as there is zero rust on the body.

Problem: Some of that coating has disappeared in spots and I need to take care of the surface rust. The pics show the situation. You can see where I have scraped a little of the coating off and it's perfect underneath. It scrapes right off so it's not a rubberized coating or anything. Amsoil?

Suggestions are greatly appreciated.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Buff/wire wheel the surface rust and then use Fluid film or marine grease to re-coat.

I prefer the blue marine grease.

J

Amazon.com: As11 Fluid Film 11.75oz Spray Cans: Industrial & Scientific

Amazon.com: Lucas Oil Marine Grease - 14oz. 10320-30: Automotive

 

[mwebfj60]

How thick of a layer do you put on when using the grease?

 

[Output Shaft]

Before you apply anything to your car, make sure you can tolerate the smell of it.
Apply a large swath of whatever you're going to use onto a big piece of foil & leave it in an enclosed room. Preferably a bathroom that can later be ventilated.

Close the door over night & take a whiff in there the next day. See how you like that. Many of these so called corrosion inhibitors can contaminate your car and make it stink for YEARS

 

[SteveH]

If you're slathering on grease with your bare hand (a good way to get in touch with your Cruiser), I would leave 1/16" thick coating on the parts you are covering. You don't need giant globs of grease, but you need enough to withstand some wear and car washes, etc. Over time, dirt will stick to the grease and make a durable coating. Where the frame layers are delaminating (in your photo), I would dilute some gear oil with a solvent and spray/squirt some in there to stop that rust. One drawback of a thick grease is that it cannot creep into tight areas - so use oil (even ATF) and get something into those tight spots.

There are many threads on rustproofing on Mud - just stick with oil or grease-based products that remain gooey or stick, and NOT any that form a hard shell over the metal. Spray tar products (sound deadeners) that dry hard can be worse than nothing at all, especially when applied over another failing coating.

 

[mwebfj60]

That's about what I had in my mind. I was thinking a stubby thick bristle paint brush to push the grease into the cracks and crevices. Thanks!

 

[mwebfj60]

Before you apply anything to your car, make sure you can tolerate the smell of it.
Apply a large swath of whatever you're going to use onto a big piece of foil & leave it in an enclosed room. Preferably a bathroom that can later be ventilated.

Close the door over night & take a whiff in there the next day. See how you like that. Many of these so called corrosion inhibitors can contaminate your car and make it stink for YEARS

What have you used that didn't stink up the cab?

 

[Malleus]

Or you could just do what I did: ignore your leaking rear main until the chassis and body are liberally coated with engine oil (takes about ten years and saves lots of oil changes ).

 

[doug720]

^^^That's called the "Continuous Oil Change!"

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Fluid film is derived from lanolin... so if you don't dig the smell of wool or even wet sheep stay clear.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

What have you used that didn't stink up the cab?

He uses boiled Linseed.

 

[SteveH]

I think Fluid Film on the exterior chassis components is fine, but I would not inside rear quarter panels and parts that directly connect with the interior. I drowned the bottom of my previously-in-New-York '03 Highlander with 2 aerosol cans of Fluid Film, and the car smells no different inside. The garage smelled for a day or two. I'm sure it's all covered in dust from my dirt road by now.

On my FJ62, I sprayed aerosol Lithium grease (the kind you use on door hinges and hood latches) all over the inside of the rear quarter panels. There is a faint old truck smell in my truck (ahh!) but I cannot attribute any of the odor to this spray Lithium grease. What I like about spray Lithium is that it's $4/can a Walmart, it's runny into crevices, it clings, and it doesn't stink. Fluid Film is 3x the price and reeks of wet sheep.

 

[Malleus]

Fluid film is derived from lanolin... so if you don't dig the smell of wool or even wet sheep stay clear.

Did you say wet sheep?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Did you say wet sheep?

That I did.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Appears he said it too... ^^^ @SteveH.

 

[mwebfj60]

Great, getting advice from a bunch of sheep herders

 

[stockhorse]

Better than Camel herders

 

[gregnash]

What about nerf herders?

 

[SteveH]

Fluid Film does have a wonderful clingy property where it hangs onto the metal and saturates any surface rust underneath it. It's neat stuff, it's just not the only stuff, and it's pretty expensive.

At some point, rustproofing is nothing more than a greasy layer on top of steel to firmly displace any water molecules from getting to the steel. Any ol' grease will work in the big picture.

 

[doug720]

Do you know why sheep herders tuck the sheep's rear legs into their high boots and stand next to a cliff? Wait...this is not OTT and the Black hand is watching...Sorry!