HZJ77 JDM import and death wobble (5 Viewers)

[bshanna]

Is the CT26 the turbo that was used on the 13B-T ?

Very limited especially if you have factory A/C. Odd Iron utilized the space inside of the ARB brush bar for some of the components. No two of his designs are the same and he is not a proponent of "one size fits all" when it comes to turbos.

Yeah that makes sense. I've got a great shop here local, does all the work on my MR2s but he knows a bit about these older LCs as well if i decide to go custom.

Do you know if the CT26 the turbo that was used on the 13B-T ?

 

[Gun Runner 5]

The CT26 was used on my BJ74 (13B-T)

 

[roscoFJ73]

Nice! I'm just wondering what people do for intercoolers and piping, seems like space is limited.

Because of the large number of 1HZs in Australia, most of this has already been worked out. Ebay is good for pics. AXT have one. This is a HPD kit

 

[bshanna]

The CT26 was used on my BJ74 (13B-T)

good to know.. i think i was confusing my previous thoughts of OE turbo charger with that.

 

[bshanna]

Because of the large number of 1HZs in Australia, most of this has already been worked out. Ebay is good for pics. AXT have one. This is a HPD kit

Awesome, will check it out.

 

[Behemoth60]

Hello,
I recently acquired my dream car... an 1989 AW11 S/C MR2. I am having fun starting to learn about it. I've taken it to a few auto-cross training days to get a feel for the car... In the corners, it's is definitely a better car than I am a driver!

I sadly have had lots of experience with Death Wobble, and the root cause has never been the same twice. One time, it was a broken frame, right at the attachment point of the leaf spring hanger to the frame! Bad steering damper. worn suspension bushings. out of round tires.

Other folks have already mentioned the common causes... spring bushings, caster, rod ends, wheel balance.

One thing no one has mentioned yet is the steering damper... it's primary role is to prevent death wobble. For starters, it needs to be in good operating condition. Secondly, I see from the pics yours has a spring on it... I don't think that's wise because of...

Thirdly, It's my belief that Toyota made an engineering error in attaching the steering damper to the frame. Rather, it is my assertion that the damper should be attached to the axle housing. In attaching it to the frame, if there IS any wobble between the axle housing and frame (due to worn bushings, TRE's etc) , the damper will AMPLIFY said wobble by pushing on the steering as it counteracts the wobble, having the exact opposite intended effect of minimizing said wobble. I would suspect the spring on your particular damper is really super-powering your death wobble.

My advice, (in addition to all the other advice already imparted) replace the steering damper, and as you do so, and fabricate a mount so it attaches to the axle housing instead of the frame.

 

[Loober]

@Behemoth60 interesting suggestion about the steering stabilizer mount on the axle, looking online it looks like there are examples of both, wonder how much diff that would really make....

 

[elkaholic]

Odd Iron Off Road designed a custom setup for my Cruiser utilizing an air/water Intercooler. Unfortunately I sold the Cruiser several weeks ago.

Guess I need to pipe in with pics

 

[SNLC]

I don't see the JDM mods I suspected might be in there.


Like others have said; go through the shackles, tie rod ends, check wheel bearings, replace that damper, torque your u-bolts and get your wheels balanced. If the wobble is there after that, dig in deeper.


Cheers

 

[bshanna]

Hello,
I recently acquired my dream car... an 1989 AW11 S/C MR2. I am having fun starting to learn about it. I've taken it to a few auto-cross training days to get a feel for the car... In the corners, it's is definitely a better car than I am a driver!

I sadly have had lots of experience with Death Wobble, and the root cause has never been the same twice. One time, it was a broken frame, right at the attachment point of the leaf spring hanger to the frame! Bad steering damper. worn suspension bushings. out of round tires.

Other folks have already mentioned the common causes... spring bushings, caster, rod ends, wheel balance.

One thing no one has mentioned yet is the steering damper... it's primary role is to prevent death wobble. For starters, it needs to be in good operating condition. Secondly, I see from the pics yours has a spring on it... I don't think that's wise because of...

Thirdly, It's my belief that Toyota made an engineering error in attaching the steering damper to the frame. Rather, it is my assertion that the damper should be attached to the axle housing. In attaching it to the frame, if there IS any wobble between the axle housing and frame (due to worn bushings, TRE's etc) , the damper will AMPLIFY said wobble by pushing on the steering as it counteracts the wobble, having the exact opposite intended effect of minimizing said wobble. I would suspect the spring on your particular damper is really super-powering your death wobble.

My advice, (in addition to all the other advice already imparted) replace the steering damper, and as you do so, and fabricate a mount so it attaches to the axle housing instead of the frame.

The AW is a sweet little chassis, especially s/c. Congrats on the pick up!

Interesting on the steering dampener.. i definitely don't know enough about that to tell whether that would be a good idea or a bad one? Seems like for the most part, people don't have the issue when their suspension and steering components are fresh anyway? At least my previous searches for death wobble in the 70 sub forum don't seem to pull enough results that it's an endemic issue that would point to a design flaw. As i said, definitely not my area of expertise but would be curious if folks had feedback there.

 

[bshanna]

I don't see the JDM mods I suspected might be in there.


Like others have said; go through the shackles, tie rod ends, check wheel bearings, replace that damper, torque your u-bolts and get your wheels balanced. If the wobble is there after that, dig in deeper.


Cheers

Thanks again, will report back. i kind of want to be scientific about it and replace parts one at a time, but also kinda just want to replace everything to save some time. Will probably do the latter for the smaller bits.

It's funny you talk about JDM mods as a potentially bad thing - in the MR2 world, the JDM mod market is for the most part thought of as the pinnacle.

 

[bshanna]

Guess I need to pipe in with pics

wouldn't mind, if you have anything handy.

 

[onemanarmy]

Those wide tires and wheels aren't helping anything.

 

[elkaholic]

Engine pics .... as noted, there ain’t much room under the hood


Water to air intercooler - buried under there is a Garrett (now Honeywell) turbo

Intercooler in background. Black tank next to washer bottle is a coolant reservoir for the water side of the system.

One of two radiators in the Left wing of ARB

View of radiator from above

Radiator in RH wing of ARB

All of the work above is done by Rob of Odd Iron Off Road. The mini radiators are off of a Yamaha motorcycle of some sort.

 

[Gun Runner 5]

Don't give away all of the trade secrets.

 

[Gun Runner 5]

The turbo before it was splattered with road debris.

 

[JuanJ]

These are what i took a while ago, i'm in fairplay and the truck is in denver right now.

one more not great shot when it was still in japan
Will check the turbo when i'm back though.. if there's one thing i'm used to at this point it's checking turbos :/ No EGT gauge, there's an aftermarket (nice one too - HKS) boost gauge though. Not running a bar here at elevation, not that i've even got on it yet.

Hello,

Nice 77 Series.

Your steering links look tampered with. A creative Japanese mechanic, I suppose.

You should replace the steering damper. In the picture below, I marked the proper anchoring point with a circle. Some mechanic fitted a stabilizer with a flange of sorts, which I marked with an arrow. This in NOT OEM.

EDIT: the other steering damper mount is not OEM either. Marked with a box on the picture below.

On a second look, the whole linkage looks reversed. That might explain at least part of your problems. I would replace the whole thing, but that is just me.

This is another view of the fabricated flange, again with an arrow. I am not sure the yellow spring and its adapter, circled in the picture, were part of the steering damper.

The tie rods look worn. You might want to replace them. Make sure that there is the same length of thread on each side.



Last but not least, if you sustain high speeds or engine rpms during prolonged periods, allow the turbo to cool down by allowing the engine to idle during 5 to 10 minutes after. I might be stating the obvious here, but better safe than sorry.







Juan

 

[bshanna]

Hello,

Nice 77 Series.

Your steering links look tampered with. A creative Japanese mechanic, I suppose.

You should replace the steering damper. In the picture below, I marked the proper anchoring point with a circle. Some mechanic fitted a stabilizer with a flange of sorts, which I marked with an arrow. This in NOT OEM.

View attachment 1712876

EDIT: the other steering damper mount is not OEM either. Marked with a box on the picture below.

View attachment 1712892

On a second look, the whole linkage looks reversed. That might explain at least part of your problems. I would replace the whole thing, but that is just me.

This is another view of the fabricated flange, again with an arrow. I am not sure the yellow spring and its adapter, circled in the picture, were part of the steering damper.

View attachment 1712882

The tie rods look worn. You might want to replace them. Make sure that there is the same length of thread on each side.



Last but not least, if you sustain high speeds or engine rpms during prolonged periods, allow the turbo to cool down by allowing the engine to idle during 5 to 10 minutes after. I might be stating the obvious here, but better safe than sorry.







Juan

Hi Juan,

This is super helpful, i appreciate it. Seems like people like OME stuff, do you (or does anyone else) have thoughts about their steering stabilizer vs stock? Anyone have experience with these? Tie Rod & Relay Rod End Kit For 70 Series LHD [TE-1982/45040-69075X] - $139.99 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts

Do you have a picture of how the stock (or otherwise) stabilizer should be mounted?

I hear you on the turbo cool down.. i've got a turbo timer on the MR2. Appreciate the heads up though.

thanks
bret

 

[SNLC]

Because of the large number of 1HZs in Australia, most of this has already been worked out. Ebay is good for pics. AXT have one. This is a HPD kit

Correct me if I am wrong but I have read on Aussie sites the following;

1HZ has stronger bottom end than 1HDT

1HDT has a better head.

When turbo'ing a 1HZ it is best to obviously lower compression by changing out the pistons something I have done turbo'ing an NA but what I have read is bolt the 1HDT head on the 1HZ for best results.

Familiar with this?

In my mind there is no reason not to run an I/C on any turboed engine.

Cheers

 

[Locked79]

Correct me if I am wrong but I have read on Aussie sites the following;

1HZ has stronger bottom end than 1HDT

1HDT has a better head.

When turbo'ing a 1HZ it is best to obviously lower compression by changing out the pistons something I have done turbo'ing an NA but what I have read is bolt the 1HDT head on the 1HZ for best results.

Familiar with this?

In my mind there is no reason not to run an I/C on any turboed engine.

Cheers

1hz and 1hdt bottom end is the same. If anything, the 1hdt is slightly stronger due to the bigger con rod little ends. Block and crank are structurally identical.

Swapping the 1hd head onto the 1hz is possible, but also needs 1hd pistons, rods, injectors, injector pump to work.