HZJ73 rear quarter window seals (1 Viewer)

[Mountainjnky75]

I don't post here much, but hoping maybe someone has experience with this issue. The quarter window "run channels"- the rubber guides that the sliding windows sit in- are decaying and shrinking on my LC. Fortunately, I was able to get new ones from Amayama. Installing them is where I'm stuck.

I believe the window frames need to be removed from the fiberglass top in order to pop the windows out and replace the run channels. However, I'm not finding guidance anywhere on how to do that. Anyone in the LC community out there have some tips how to figure this out?

Thanks in advance!

 

[OGBeno]

Correct. The factory manual is available in the Resources section and you can download your manual and it has step-by-step instructions.

 

[JuanJ]

Hello,

The windows are glued to the fiberglass top with what the manual refers to as butyl sealant. There is also an interior "sash" that reinforces the union.

In a nutshell:

1. Remove the interior sash.
2. There are four metal clips on each window. Each is about 1/2 in. or 12 mm in length. Remove them.
3. Cut the sealant. Old sealant becomes hard to remove. Use a scraper and proceed carefully.
4. Remove the window assembly.
5. There is a screw on the top of the window frame. Remove it.
6. Put the window frame vertically on a tarp or a soft mat.
7. Slide both windows to the center.
8. Put your left foot on one side of the frame. Put your right foot on the other side.
9. Very carefully, pull the top center of the frame while holding the bottom with your feet.
10. Pull the window out of the rail and set it aside. It is good to have someone to help you with this.
11. Remove the vertical rail. It has two small guides that tend to fall apart.
12. Pull the other window out of the rail.
13. Now you can pull the rubber guides.
14. Replace the rubber guides.

You can take the chance to clean the frame and check for rust. You may want to apply a fresh coat of rust treatment and paint.

To assemble the window, proceed in reverse order. Do not tighten the screw too much. Then you can install the window assembly:

1. Apply sealant in the fiberglass top lip.
2. Put the window assembly back. Carefully press it in place until the frame is in contact with the fiberglass top lip.
3. Clamp the window in place and let the sealant cure. Use two clamps per corner, and as many as you can in the rest of the frame's perimeter.
4. Once the sealant is cured, check for leaks. A garden hose or a pressure washer are your friends.
5. Seal the leaks, if any, wait for curing and then check. Repeat until there are no leaks.
6. Put the inner clips back.
7. Put the sash back.

Hope this helps.





Juan

 

[Mountainjnky75]

Hello,

The windows are glued to the fiberglass top with what the manual refers to as butyl sealant. There is also an interior "sash" that reinforces the union.

In a nutshell:

1. Remove the interior sash.
2. There are four metal clips on each window. Each is about 1/2 in. or 12 mm in length. Remove them.
3. Cut the sealant. Old sealant becomes hard to remove. Use a scraper and proceed carefully.
4. Remove the window assembly.
5. There is a screw on the top of the window frame. Remove it.
6. Put the window frame vertically on a tarp or a soft mat.
7. Slide both windows to the center.
8. Put your left foot on one side of the frame. Put your right foot on the other side.
9. Very carefully, pull the top center of the frame while holding the bottom with your feet.
10. Pull the window out of the rail and set it aside. It is good to have someone to help you with this.
11. Remove the vertical rail. It has two small guides that tend to fall apart.
12. Pull the other window out of the rail.
13. Now you can pull the rubber guides.
14. Replace the rubber guides.

You can take the chance to clean the frame and check for rust. You may want to apply a fresh coat of rust treatment and paint.

To assemble the window, proceed in reverse order. Do not tighten the screw too much. Then you can install the window assembly:

1. Apply sealant in the fiberglass top lip.
2. Put the window assembly back. Carefully press it in place until the frame is in contact with the fiberglass top lip.
3. Clamp the window in place and let the sealant cure. Use two clamps per corner, and as many as you can in the rest of the frame's perimeter.
4. Once the sealant is cured, check for leaks. A garden hose or a pressure washer are your friends.
5. Seal the leaks, if any, wait for curing and then check. Repeat until there are no leaks.
6. Put the inner clips back.
7. Put the sash back.

Hope this helps.





Juan

Thank you Juan, that's a huge help! Not sure if I'm going to tackle it this weekend, but sometime soon. That's a good call about the rust treatment and new paint- I was thinking the same thing... As far as glue/sealant to hold the assemblies in, any recommendations?

Thanks again,
Noel

 

[JuanJ]

Thank you Juan, that's a huge help! Not sure if I'm going to tackle it this weekend, but sometime soon. That's a good call about the rust treatment and new paint- I was thinking the same thing... As far as glue/sealant to hold the assemblies in, any recommendations?

Thanks again,
Noel

Hello Noel,

Windshield sealant is a good option. So is automotive grade silicone.

The manual recommends butyl sealant. It can be hard to find, depending on where you live. The options I mentioned above work well.

By the way, if there are leaks, the metal clips corrode before the frame does. They may need replacement.






Juan

 

[Mountainjnky75]

Hello Noel,

Windshield sealant is a good option. So is automotive grade silicone.

The manual recommends butyl sealant. It can be hard to find, depending on where you live. The options I mentioned above work well.

By the way, if there are leaks, the metal clips corrode before the frame does. They may need replacement.






Juan

Juan,

That makes sense about using windshield sealant. That should be pretty easy to track down. As far as the clips, I was on Amayama today and I believe they are available. I haven't looked yet, but if they're headed south I can probably get more.

Thanks so much for the info, and have a great weekend my friend!

Noel

 

[JuanJ]

Juan,

That makes sense about using windshield sealant. That should be pretty easy to track down. As far as the clips, I was on Amayama today and I believe they are available. I haven't looked yet, but if they're headed south I can probably get more.

Thanks so much for the info, and have a great weekend my friend!

Noel

Hello Noel,

The clips are available. Other 70 Series, namely the 75/78 Series Troopie, use the same setup.

Have a great weekend too.





Juan

 

[LDRF]

@Mountainjnky75, @JuanJ

What's the part numbers for the clips?
I'll be doing this work this summer. I have the seals, but if there are other disposables that I should pick up, I'd like to get them.

 

[sark]

@Mountainjnky75, @JuanJ

What's the part numbers for the clips?
I'll be doing this work this summer. I have the seals, but if there are other disposables that I should pick up, I'd like to get them.

Everything is here:

Side window for Toyota Land Cruiser 70, 8 generation 08.1987 - 07.2004 - Toyota Car and Auto Spare Parts - Genuine Online Car Parts Catalogue - Amayama

Side window for Toyota Land Cruiser 70, 8 generation 08.1987 - 07.2004. Buy OEM spare parts online. Low prices, proven reliability, fast shipping from Japan

www.amayama.com

The frames are what I found to be rusting on mine; about to do this project as well.

 

[Omrib]

Everything is here:

Side window for Toyota Land Cruiser 70, 8 generation 08.1987 - 07.2004 - Toyota Car and Auto Spare Parts - Genuine Online Car Parts Catalogue - Amayama

Side window for Toyota Land Cruiser 70, 8 generation 08.1987 - 07.2004. Buy OEM spare parts online. Low prices, proven reliability, fast shipping from Japan

www.amayama.com

The frames are what I found to be rusting on mine; about to do this project as well.

Same here....

 

[LDRF]

From the Factory Service Manual:

The sash clip is on the inside and there is one per side, yes? 62375-90K01-B0 (right) and 62376-90K00-B0 (left) - both NLA? Did you find them rusted out?
There are 4 small "Spacer" (62279-90K00). Not showing as NLA. Are these typically required to be replaced?
There are also 4 small "Film" (62269-90K01) per side. How do they fit into the picture?

 

[sark]

From the Factory Service Manual:
View attachment 3589056
The sash clip is on the inside and there is one per side, yes? 62375-90K01-B0 (right) and 62376-90K00-B0 (left) - both NLA? Did you find them rusted out?
There are 4 small "Spacer" (62279-90K00). Not showing as NLA. Are these typically required to be replaced?
There are also 4 small "Film" (62269-90K01) per side. How do they fit into the picture?

This is the "clip", I believe (May not be the exact part number):

It's a plastic type of material, for the most part, so it won't rust... But I do believe there are metal clips inside this unit that secure it in place, which could rust I suppose. This part above you peel away from the inside of the vehicle to start the disassembly process.

 

[Felde]

Thank you Juan, that's a huge help! Not sure if I'm going to tackle it this weekend, but sometime soon. That's a good call about the rust treatment and new paint- I was thinking the same thing... As far as glue/sealant to hold the assemblies in, any recommendations?

Thanks again,
Noel

Hi
I did the job some time ago.
Here is my writeup I advised to a buddy.
Post in thread 'BJ73 FRP windows' BJ73 FRP windows - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bj73-frp-windows.955186/post-14596956

For gluing the windows back in: Automotive sealant. Important: Use sealant, not bodywork glue, as you might want to remove the windows again sometime.
Pay attention to the thickness of the beed and the overall thickness of FRP-Top +beed + frame to make sure the clpping strip goes over it again without creating a big mess of sealant being pushed out.
Details in my writeup.

The clip strip usually not rusted, as the metal clips are molded inside the plastik. Might be dirty, though. Soapy water and a brush... make sure not to nick or twist them as they don't straighten nicely again.

Those spacers are important to put back as they provide the necessary gap for water to drain from the lower frame rail. I reused mine.
There are some drain holes in the frame and so are in the weatherstrip. Make sure those line up nicely when installing the weatherstrip.

This post has some more pics that ikustrates how things come together:
Post in thread 'BJ73 FRP windows' BJ73 FRP windows - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bj73-frp-windows.955186/post-13847873
Good Luck

 

[Mountainjnky75]

Hello Noel,

The clips are available. Other 70 Series, namely the 75/78 Series Troopie, use the same setup.

Have a great weekend too.





Juan

Hi
I did the job some time ago.
Here is my writeup I advised to a buddy.
Post in thread 'BJ73 FRP windows' BJ73 FRP windows - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bj73-frp-windows.955186/post-14596956

For gluing the windows back in: Automotive sealant. Important: Use sealant, not bodywork glue, as you might want to remove the windows again sometime.
Pay attention to the thickness of the beed and the overall thickness of FRP-Top +beed + frame to make sure the clpping strip goes over it again without creating a big mess of sealant being pushed out.
Details in my writeup.

The clip strip usually not rusted, as the metal clips are molded inside the plastik. Might be dirty, though. Soapy water and a brush... make sure not to nick or twist them as they don't straighten nicely again.

Those spacers are important to put back as they provide the necessary gap for water to drain from the lower frame rail. I reused mine.
There are some drain holes in the frame and so are in the weatherstrip. Make sure those line up nicely when installing the weatherstrip.

This post has some more pics that ikustrates how things come together:
Post in thread 'BJ73 FRP windows' BJ73 FRP windows - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/bj73-frp-windows.955186/post-13847873
Good Luck

Hey Felde,

Thanks for the how to info on this project, I'll check out your write up. I've been a little apprehensive about doing this myself, but I'm feeling good about it after all the input from the folks here! I already ordered some 3M window sealant and am hoping to reuse the sash, clips, spacers, etc. Good call about the spacer and drain hole alignment.

If I remember to, I'll take some pics throughout the process to hopefully help out others as they carry out the 1/4 window rebuild.

Cheers, and enjoy your weekend!
Noel

 

[JuanJ]

@Mountainjnky75, @JuanJ

What's the part numbers for the clips?
I'll be doing this work this summer. I have the seals, but if there are other disposables that I should pick up, I'd like to get them.

Hello,

The parts catalog calls it fastener. Some catalogs call it clip.

It took me a while but I found it. Part number is 90468-05089.

This is how it looks.

Corrosion eats up this little guy. Ask me how I know.

The dash lines in the illustration below show where these clips go.

Juan

 

[JuanJ]

This is the "clip", I believe (May not be the exact part number):

View attachment 3589313

Hello,

This is the sash or sash clip. No, it does not rust.

Four metallic clips hold the window frame against the fiberglass top lip below the sash clip.






Juan

 

[Rockaways]

Does anybody know if the rust on the frames in the rear windows tends to cause rust on the quarter panels?

 

[Mountainjnky75]

Does anybody know if the rust on the frames in the rear windows tends to cause rust on the quarter panels?

I have the FRP removable top on both of my HZJ73's, so there's not a direct pathway from the window frames to the lower 1/4 panels. However, one of my rigs has some serious rust happening at the bottom of the 1/4 panels behind the rear wheels. I suspect this was from constantly driving in rainy/salty conditions in Japan where it lived most of its life.

 

[Felde]

I just last week had this issue:
Rain runs down from the rear windows into the frame rails. By design, there are drain holes in the rubber seals as well as the frame to drain the water. That's why the spacers under the frame are important: They provide the necessary space for the water to drain.
But on heavy rain or flush at the carwash, or (in my case) when sitting at an incline, the drain holes may not cope with the amount. Water then just floods the frame rail, makes it trough under the sliding window, runs inside, behind the trim.
Same may happen, in particular when driving, if the seal between FRP-top and body is leaking.
If that happens rather in the rear, the water drips on the upper side of the rear wheel well, and from there into that ditch where wheel well and rear quarter panel meet. ... and that's where it might rust. It may also make its way either to the rear lower end of the quarter panel (under the rear lights), or to the front to the B column.
If it happens more in the front, it runs into the B column and the rocker panel below.
I had this happen last month with my BJ73, sitting in the rain outside for 3 weeks at an incline, facing downwards. The left rocker panel was literally full: About a gallon of water in it .
And my rear window seals are new and all drain holes open.
The issue is: normally you won't even notice, as it all happens behind the trim. Only the little stretch across the body, from the lower edge of the window to the upper edge of the trim, is exposed and you could see some drops.
Cheers Ralf

 

[JuanJ]

Does anybody know if the rust on the frames in the rear windows tends to cause rust on the quarter panels?

Hello,

As Ralf / @Felde mentioned above, the drain holes can become overwhelmed when there is too much water. They cannot cope with incoming water if there is dirt in the space between the window frame and the top either. And then there is the sealant failing because of age, weather conditions, or both.

If the drain holes cannot cope with the water, and the sealant is on its way out, water overflows to the interior, and into the quarter panel. Water then accumulates on the panel's bottom. This water makes a characteristic (and annoying) noise when driving.

Depending on the condition of your panel, the water inside may accelerate corrosion.

Fortunately, there is a draining hole in the inner rear part of the panel, close to where the rear lights are. It has a rubber plug. If there is water inside the panel, remove the plug and drain the water.

Spraying oil or a water displacement compound inside the panel helps to keep corrosion at bay.




Juan