HVLP Guns ????

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Painted at home with my ne Devillbiss GFG 670

http://nfcruiserheads.org/forum/index.php?topic=53.0

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Top job,:cool: well done the 60 looks clean and cool.:beer: :beer:
 
I bought but sent back a Devilbiss Finishline 2 gun. I didn't like the plastic parts that are used through the painting system of the gun. I did keep the baggie 'liner' setup though to use in the gun I traded the devilbiss for. I've come to find those liners to be a big PITA. Nice idea that sometimes won't puncture right, that will fold over their outlet, and are not that easy to get out of the gun after use without making a mess. MUCH easier to use the old way of spraying out with solvent or laquer thinner to clean the gun.

When looking at CFM delivery of a compressor don't forget to take into account that delivery volume differs at different output pressures. A compressor rated to give only 5 CFM at 90 psi will give more than that at the 25-30 psi HVLP inlet pressure.

Brownbear, you use the terms HVLP and LPHV. What's the difference between high volume low pressure and low pressure high volume?
 
I bought the same gun for my project. Haven't got that far yet, but we should certainly get together and at least one of us can learn from the other's mistake.

This will be my first paint job ever also, just trying to get the tub in order to start spraying.

Tim

This gun with it's 1.4mm tip will be ok for a base coat, top coat and also clear if it sprays ok. For an undercoat especially a hibuild epoxy it is far better to have a gun with a 1.7 or 1.8 mm nozzle, a 1.4mm will struggle to spray some undercoats. You will need to check the air output on your compressor to make sure it pumps enough air for the gun. Try a test on an old panel or sheet of tin first and make sure you have your spray pattern correct. cheers
 
When I painted my FJ40, I got wrapped up in what gun to get. I ended up using the Astro HVLP, and it came out fine. Maybe I wasted more paint than a $400 Iwata or Sata, but I didnt waste the $300 difference in cost in wasted paint... thats for sure.

More important than finding a good gun is developing good technique! Mixing the paint properly, setting the fan pattern on the gun, controlling the air pressure/ air quality, learning the proper overlap pattern, etc. those improve your paint job more than a $400 gun.
 
When I painted my FJ40, I got wrapped up in what gun to get. I ended up using the Astro HVLP, and it came out fine. Maybe I wasted more paint than a $400 Iwata or Sata, but I didnt waste the $300 difference in cost in wasted paint... thats for sure.

The Astro HVLP Evo was recommended in a previous post. The point made about paint transfer after atomization is more critical to a shop painting numerous cars per day. I think you are missing the point that guns that create a large fan pattern or incorrect pattern due to cheap manufacture create a lot of overspray and unless you are working in a good downdraught booth a lot this overspray ends up back on your fresh paint. Further to this some really cheap guns cannot be set correctly. I bought a cheap mini touch up gun off Ebay when it arrived the aliminium cap would fall off the gun, LOL this was replaced by the seller. But the spray pattern was impossible to correctly adjust as the holes in the air horn were not shaped correctly and gave an odd shaped spray pattern.. You get what you pay for.


More important than finding a good gun is developing good technique! Mixing the paint properly, setting the fan pattern on the gun, controlling the air pressure/ air quality, learning the proper overlap pattern, etc. those improve your paint job more than a $400 gun.

Just pointing out this is not always possible with a cheap gun.:D I must have missed where someone suggested buying a $400+ gun. As an example the Sata that Bosscat mentioned are each individually tested and adjusted by hand before they leave the factory.The gun he uses is capable of painting a car in less than half the time in what would be needed with the average cheap HVLP gun. So it's horses for courses not simply a rip off for a more expensive gun. I can get a good finish with my Finishline3 but I know I can get a better finish with my clear coat with a 670 plus gun or an Iwata and if I had a booth a Sata or compliant gun also. There are knockoffs of the Iwata that the difference is hard to pick from the distance but none have the tulip shaped fan from the real thing.
As you pointed out learning to set the gun correctly , correct overlap, timing between coats, etc and practice is all necessary to end with a quality finish.cheers
 
I would agree with eveything bigdog just said. Remember, if you are shooting metallics your overlap will be different from shooting a solid color. I am not trying to get anyone to buy a gun here, just trying to be helpful. Find what works for you and practice your technique and you will start seeing big improvements.
 
Get a good cup-gun for base coats, single stage paints & urethanes...
Get a really good HVLP for top coat / clear coats...I like Sata personally
Primer gun...not such a big deal

If you must combine or use an 'all-in-one'...I'd get a really good cup-gun w/multiple tips for the different finishes & keep a psi pot filter on the interior feed line of the cup gun. Oh, and make sure to have a in-line water filter OR a water filter somewhere before the gun...and stay away from the greasy food at lunch time! Wash those hands & Prep-solve & tack to keep the fish eyes at bay!

As mentioned before...knowing the paint flash times, overlaps, psi settings, your guns capabilities etc. are what will produce a good paint job

just my .02
 
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Just pointing out this is not always possible with a cheap gun.:D I must have missed where someone suggested buying a $400+ gun.

Didnt mean to sound like someone had said that an expensive gun is the only way to go. I learned a ton using my cheap but actually surprisingly usable less than $100 astro HVLP. Infact, some of the aftermarket Sata parts actually fit the Astro... FWIW.

when you get good enough to see and understand the limitations of the cheaper guns, go get a more expensive one.

when you are doing your first paint job, spend money on an appropriately sized compressor, air drier/filter, and extra paint materials so you can practice first!
 
I have this for a compressor. I think I will be okay.


Ingersoll Rand Electric Stationary Air Compressor — 3 HP, 10.3 CFM @ 135 PSI, 230 Volt, Model# SS3L3
 

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