Huh? Confused newbie to the 24v thing (1 Viewer)

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AussieHJCruza

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Jul 8, 2013
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2,960
Location
New South Wales, Australia
Website
www.completecruisers.com.au
G'day guys and girls,
I've recently aquired a JDM import HJ61, and given that 12v is the norm for cruisers here, I'm not too familiar with the whole 24v thing, so I'd really appreciate some help, because this has me a bit boxed;

1) Wiring is interesting to say the least; some people shouldn't be allowed to work on vehicles.
2) Batteries were dead when I got the truck
3) Put in 2 new identical 630cca batteries in April
4) Was fine for a few weeks, and then after sitting for a week, dead as a doornail.
5) Have been jump starting it since due to being flat out in other areas of life and it not being a daily driver
6) Bottom battery charges fine and had 12ish volts across it
7) Top battery was down a few volts, but wouldn't take a charge. Charger declares it faulty
8) Took battery back to the shop today, and they confirm it has over 12v across it, but polarity is reversed, which apparently means that it has been connected backwards

It's the last one that has totally confused me, but first, a bit of troubleshooting ive done

1) With positive off the top battery, multimeter shows very little discharge when put between lead and battery terminal. (as in, 0.something of a milliamp)
2) When vehicle running, both batteries have >13 volts across them, bottom one shows that on the multimeter, top one flashes as ~26 then returns to the 13-14 volt mark.
3) When running, between + top and - bottom, multimeter shows ~27 volts
4) When I connect the top + terminal, there is generally a small spark
5) I strongly doubt I connected the top battery backwards, otherwise I would expect that it wouldn't work and would be arcing and carrying on.

Is the battery place trying to fob me off, or is it possible that there's serious wiring screw-up somewhere or something else weird going on? Batteries are hooked up as follows: body & engine block -> bottom neg -> Bottom pos -> top neg ->top pos to vehicle. That is correct isn't it?

Would really appreciate some help, if I can't figure it out it will go to a truck electrical place near me, but I would rather not spend that sort of money if I can avoid it, and I'd also like to learn about the 24v system.

Thanks in advance!
 
ok firstly does it have a aftermarket stereo if it has like mine it will have a 24 to 12 reducer if it has if this is left on it will drain one of the batts as this connected for the memory of your stereo this needs to be turned off if not using it everyday. The charging system is not intelligent i.e. if one batt is low the alternator will not sense this and generally you end up with one overcharged battery and one dead one. Best thing i ever did is install a redarc battery charge equaliser which solves this and does exactly what it means this will not solve your draining batt prob though.

You need to start off with both the batts charged up the same level (sounds like maybe one of yours was faulty) the system will work fine if alternator is fine and no major wiring probs will post up a pick later of how mine is connected up.

Mark
 
I had the polarity reversed once: to get it back drain it and connect a full battery and charge but it will never be good like it was.
The easy solution is to get good batteries from warranty (stubborn shops will talk around that) and drive around and if it charges fine unhook the cable when not in use.

Because the draining can be so many things it is better to ignore it for now and drive around and change fluids and stuff.
13v is not much, my 1985 hj60 is adjusted to 30v total as it seems new batteries can handle and require more volts than 30 years ago and with lights and fan on it quickly drops voltage as my alternator is only 40 amps from factory.
new old stock alternator, I store manuals and pictures here: 24V glow,alternator,dome,buzzer,battery, electrics - Page 3 - hj60.freeforums.org
 
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I had a similar issue when I got my truck. Batteries would go dead in a week or so. I tore the dash out and removed all the extra wiring that was installed in there for all sorts of things. U can see it in my signature in my build thread. That was a huge rat's nest. I since have reversed everything to factory and I have no more issues. I am using a solar power battery equalizer though. They equalize batteries when parked and stationary. I also drew up a simple but comprehensive wiring diagram and installed a 12v wiring stand alone system for my stereo and gauges. It works great and I never have battery draining issues. The series connected batteries on 24v toyotas are notorious for unequal charging. I would swap batteries every few months just to be on the safe side.
 
The batteries should be left and right handed. Two identical batteries will have the posts located in the wrong spots on an HJ-61. It's possible that the original wiring has been modded to accept identical batteries so this isn't a certainty. Post a picture please.

Front

[- +] [+ -]

Rear
 
Interresting...because I'm using 2 identical batteries...
I'll get some pics after work and post them up
 
Sorry for the delay, here are how the batteries are connected up. Some of the wiring from the PO isnt pretty but it should work i would think.

Drivers Side
20170820_084012.jpg


Passenger side
20170820_085634.jpg
 
ahh firstly i might be missing something here but are they identical batteries same brand because those pics have the cold cranking amps one is 720 and the other 630 ??

Anyway sorry for delay this my set up both same brand batts and cca. Okay first pic the main link cable between the two batts drivers side (in aus) disregard the red cover but that is negative running across the rad to the positive terminal on the passenger side which you wil see in the second pic. 2nd pic as you can see the earth running to the passenger guard. My other wiring is for the redarc charge equaliser in the third pic mounted on the passenger guard that is where my big headlight washer reserve used to be.
IMG_0002.JPG
IMG_0003.JPG
IMG_0004.JPG
 
ahh firstly i might be missing something here but are they identical batteries same brand because those pics have the cold cranking amps one is 720 and the other 630 ??

Anyway sorry for delay this my set up both same brand batts and cca. Okay first pic the main link cable between the two batts drivers side (in aus) disregard the red cover but that is negative running across the rad to the positive terminal on the passenger side which you wil see in the second pic. 2nd pic as you can see the earth running to the passenger guard. My other wiring is for the redarc charge equaliser in the third pic mounted on the passenger guard that is where my big headlight washer reserve used to be.View attachment 1520368View attachment 1520370View attachment 1520372

Thanks for that, wonder why someone has meddled with this wiring. Wouldn't be the only thing...

Yep, both batteries are 630CCA, I had the 720 in there briefly when I was in the process of trying to revive the battery that got reversed polarity. Both 630s are back in now.
 
So, trying to do some more poking around on the truck today, and she's fighting...first, I broke a wire on this thing, circled in red. I'd like to replace it but I'm having difficulty working out exactly what it is from parts manuals etc. Could someone please help?

Also, I broke the key, and seems like no places that can cut double-sided keys are open on Saturdays, so have to wait till Monday I guess.
Fusible link.jpg
 
It's hard to tell, 'cause it looks like your wiring has been hacked up a bit and doesn't look like mine, but that circled area looks like it might be 2 of your fusible links. Splice them to repair- don't replace the green section with regular wire.


Not sure what to say about the battery configuration, My LHD Canadian 24v HJ60 has identical batteries that go in (looking from the front)
like this -

High side 24 [+ -] [+ -] body ground

with all the electrodes to the front and no crossing over of wire.
 
I thought it must be the fusible links but I can't find replacements anywhere...
 
I'm pretty sure Toyota Fusible Links are no longer available, but you can get the fusible link wire from an auto marine electric store and make your own. The gauge of wire is in the service manual. Or just splice your broken link.
 
Aha, ok. I'll have to see what I can find then. Thanks for the help
 
bloody hell mate not having a good time with it are you, may be try get a second hand part I'm pretty sure early landcruier spares or supplies will have they one located in south aus i believe but will post he is wrecking them all the time.
 
Nah, she's not really playing ball, but that's fine...if you're old I suppose you're allowed to be a bit contrary every now and again. (Well, old compared to me anyway...)
 

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