How-To Video: Setting Front Wheel Bearing Preload

[Lucky Strike]

Hey guys,
I had a long trip planned and knew my wheel bearings were really loose, my LX is a newer purchase and I'm working my way through the vehicle. I did a quick preload reset on them and shot a video on the process. I have new wheel bearings in hand just didn't have the time to install them so i felt comfortable reusing some items in the process, YMMV. Anyway hope this helps!

 

[BnvS]

This is great. Thanks for the Video with commentary.

 

[Ohthetrees]

Nicely done. I would encourage you to do a similar one when you get around to replacing the bearings.

 

[Ohthetrees]

Also, why doesn't anyone ever talk about servicing the rear bearings?

 

[Leandro]

So you're using a 55mm socket, i thought it was 54mm...

 

[Lucky Strike]

It's 54mm but i couldn't get a 54 unless I wanted to wait more than a week. 55 were available and they are also used on the 80 or 200 series I believe so I could help someone out on the trail that had an issue if I happened to be there. there's no issues using a slightly larger socket, the torque is low and the nut is so large.

...I call out 54 in the video and description...

 

[Lucky Strike]

Rear bearings are contained units that don't have preload, or re-greasing requirements.

 

[Leandro]

thanks for the clarification, i'm about to do the front rotors and wanted to be sure.
BTW, for the preload, can you use those fishing scales/gauge ?

 

[Lucky Strike]

Yup, a fishing weight gauge / hook scale. Read thru the description in the you tube video all the tools required are listed there and a brief outline of the process too. If you have any questions let me know!

 

[Leandro]

Yup, a fishing weight gauge / hook scale. Read thru the description in the you tube video all the tools required are listed there and a brief outline of the process too. If you have any questions let me know!

I was watching it at the office, no sound and kind of sneaking.... so didn't see the description.

 

[Ohthetrees]

Rear bearings are contained units that don't have preload, or re-greasing requirements.

Is that to mean they don't ever need any service, other than to occasionally do a shake test, and make sure they still spin smoothly?

 

[Lucky Strike]

Oh the trees - yup as far as I know. I will be shooting a bearing replacement video in the next day or two, I hope to have that video up by the end of the week!

Leandro - I've been there before lol. If you have any questions before you tackle your brakes post up I'll get back with you as quick as I can.

 

[Leandro]

Leandro - I've been there before lol. If you have any questions before you tackle your brakes post up I'll get back with you as quick as I can.

Thank you. I was thinking... since i'm doing the brakes, why not to do the bearings as well, and that's when it gets expensive.

 

[Lucky Strike]

I was able to get koyo bearings & seals for sub $100 off ebay for both sides (4 bearings, 2 seals). I pieced together the rest of the missing pieces, forget my exact total but it wasn't too bad.

 

[Leandro]

I just put the order for 4 bearings and races and 2 seals, all Timken for 88 dollars, including shipping.

 

[2001LC]

I may have done a few things a bit different, but kudos to you for getting the bearing good and tight.

I know this was just a quick tightening of wheel bearings, which is always a good idea. But I do feel it's worth bringing attention to the snap ring gap. When grease the axle bearing & bushing with the Slee spindle tool, I find it best to really pull the axle out hard. Thereby squishing the grease between axle & bushing as thin as possible.

Here just some of the damage a wide snap ring gap will do. The most expensive part that can be damaged is the axle teeth (front drive shaft) which isn't show here.

 

[ITRJ]

never use your torque wrench to loosen as he did in that video. Even if it isn't very tight.

 

[Ohthetrees]

never use your torque wrench to loosen as he did in that video. Even if it isn't very tight.

Depends on the design of the torque wrench. Mine is only capable of measuring torque in the "forward" direction, and according to the instructions, it works as a "breaker bar" in reverse.

 

[Lucky Strike]

2001lc - thanks for the input about the snap ring backlash, it's something that was outside the scope of this particular video and is going to be addressed in the wheel bearing replacement video.

ITRJ - with regard to torque wrenches - the biggest thing with them is to not set the wrench low, reach that set torque and have it click, and then continue turning exceeding the value of the click. if the wrench is set to a high value and tighten / loosen something under the threshold of the click - no harm no foul. I would also steer away from using a torque wrench as a breaker bar (I'm not referring to ohthetrees post here) I mean as a legit breaker bar - maxing out the scale and giving it all you have. in the context of the video there's nothing wrong with how I used the tool.

It's also imparitive to always set torque wrenches to 0 when your done with them. If stored at any value the spring will weaken and not be accurate.

 

[ITRJ]

2001lc - thanks for the input about the snap ring backlash, it's something that was outside the scope of this particular video and is going to be addressed in the wheel bearing replacement video.

ITRJ - with regard to torque wrenches - the biggest thing with them is to not set the wrench low, reach that set torque and have it click, and then continue turning exceeding the value of the click. if the wrench is set to a high value and tighten / loosen something under the threshold of the click - no harm no foul. I would also steer away from using a torque wrench as a breaker bar (I'm not referring to ohthetrees post here) I mean as a legit breaker bar - maxing out the scale and giving it all you have. in the context of the video there's nothing wrong with how I used the tool.

It's also imparitive to always set torque wrenches to 0 when your done with them. If stored at any value the spring will weaken and not be accurate.

That is correct. Exceeding the torque value or maximum torque in either direction will ruin the calibration, however, it's best practice to use your torque wrench only for its intended purpose in my opinion, but to each their own. I use my torque wrench a lot for parts that require exact torque and sequence so it's worth a few seconds to grab a breaker bar for me.