I agree to a point I also see people who just adjust it by ear advance till the sound changes then dial it back a touch.
How to time your 1HZ/1HD-T Fuel Pump Video
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Years back when I had no idea about this stuff and never did any of my own tuning / testing I used to laugh at this, thinking it was crazy.
Now that I've done it, I know better and it's not actually a bad method. You can get pretty bloody close to the ideal timing number by timing it by ear. It's also a very good way to get in the ball park when installing new pumps if you don't want to use dial indicator prior to final adjustments done on dyno / performance runs or how ever you choose to set your final timing numbers.
I guess tuning by ear need to know what sound to listen for. I have no clue unless someone has a pre-recorded sound for me to reference.
you are so right and so annoying I picked up a analouge Mitutoyo 2046A
just got my pump back from Black fox diesel (Jon Fox) looking forward to getting it installed and timed correctly
Home - Black Fox Diesel
www.dfdiesel.com
I need to know numbers. Ive had my pump off several times, with the SST and a good gauge the subtleties of rotating the pump the smallest amount become obvious. After pump and engine rebuild I opted towards advanced, and got lucky with my pre-running choice and only with the tool do you have an empirical reference.you are so right and so annoying I picked up a analouge Mitutoyo 2046A
just got my pump back from Black fox diesel (Jon Fox) looking forward to getting it installed and timed correctly
Home - Black Fox Diesel
Cheers
Duplicateyou are so right and so annoying I picked up a analouge Mitutoyo 2046A
just got my pump back from Black fox diesel (Jon Fox) looking forward to getting it installed and timed correctly
Home - Black Fox Diesel
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Well that was a while ago…
I retimed my IPs with the gauge in the beginning to know where I started and finished as I am not a trained/certified diesel mechanic (lots of reading). I also have retimed using my ear which is a lot easier. The biggest factor is the factory timing marks do not give the the most economy and performance.
I retimed my IPs with the gauge in the beginning to know where I started and finished as I am not a trained/certified diesel mechanic (lots of reading). I also have retimed using my ear which is a lot easier. The biggest factor is the factory timing marks do not give the the most economy and performance.
One other gotcha to note….if timing or retiming with injection lines attached you should loosen then tighten the hard lines at the B nut at the head to remove any angular stress. I have heard of lines cracking or the fuel delivery valve splitting under stress.
Is this referenced in the 1-hdt specific FSM? I have read through the proceedure and it shows loosening one of the lines at the distributive head, i dont remember exactly which one.
Dunno, never read that manual. Probably reads or shows the timing procedure with the lines off….
Yes it does. EM-23 to EM-26 in my 1990 engine manual anyway. Cheers
Ok, i have been meaning to check the timing but am hesitant as it is somewhat involved just to find out that the timing is with in the range. I dont have any smoke issues at all.
You won't have to loosen all the fuel lines (or the mounting nuts/stay bolt) to check your timing as you don't need to rotate the pump - only the crankshaft. You may need to create room to get the plunger tool in place by disconnecting one line.
Like many things, what may seem complicated isn't once you have done it once.
Cheers
Like many things, what may seem complicated isn't once you have done it once.
Cheers
