How To Tell If Your Head Gasket Is Blown

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

I m going to send a sample to balckstone and see what they say, Im also contemplating strongly buying this combustion test kit for a peace of mind, in the mean time Im not driving the truck too much .

Cheers Peter
 

It is not the same but it is used to perform the same test. The one in the video has 2 tubes, and this one has one tube.

If you are loaning it from Autozone, don't forget to loan the test fluid too, OEM/Block Tester Test Fluid (25739) | Block Tester | AutoZone.com.


I can confirm that this Autozone test kit works fine. I just used it to confirm my suspicions after recently experiencing daily coolant loss that I could not find an external leak for. Autozone loans both the test kit and the fluid. They will refund your money for both after returning them with your receipt. It's free! I ran the test a couple times to be sure. The most important thing is to remove enough fluid from the radiator that you won't get coolant contamination in the tester. I used a turkey baster, but you could just drain a few inches using the draincock on the radiator. The test detects combustion hydrocarbons. It typically works within 2-3 minutes.

I never knew about this test before seeing this thread. Now I'm urgently planning my HG repair. Ignorance was bliss.
 
Is there such a thing for diesels? The auto zone one ways gas only.
 
I rented one and tested a few cruisers all of which were fine! Good piece of mind and thanks for sharing. I siphoned the coolant out and well that didnt taste too good!
 
I've written several posts when the HG question comes up about using these testers. I have recommended and will recommend that it goes in the FAQ's. The Autozone loaner works just fine. They call it a block tester, but it's the same tool even though it only uses one tube. It takes about 20 seconds to do and is really simple. One bottle of the test fluid is enough to do about 10 tests. I have a bottle of the fluid and I have gotten the autozone tool many times. I think this is hands down the easiest, quickest, and cheapest way to test a HG. Maybe since someone found a video, this will finally make it to the FAQ's.

The thermostat doesn't have to be open for it to work. There are enough exhaust gases throughout the coolant that I bet it would even work without starting the vehicle.
 
I ran down to autozone yesterday and will be doing the test tonight.

They rent you the tool and the liquid (yes, they rent the liquid :meh: ) and you get your $36.12 back when you return the bottle and tester. In a nut shell, its a free test.

Edit: Reporting back after test was run.

The video shows a guy using a "double-tube". That would certainly make things easier and more "full proof". With the single, you have to be careful not to pull the radiator fluid in or it will give you a yellow reading (blue = pass and yellow = fail). Autozone only has the single.

Happy to report, my test turned blue. However, after talking with another board member I am going to send Blackstone a sample ( http://www.blackstone-labs.com/free-test-kits.php ). He told me how easy it was so I figured I might as well. They send you a kit, do what they say, and send it back ($20 after test is performed).

This is all "preventative" for me. I have not had any signs of trouble yet. I thought that I might have a problem when I found some dark gunk at the bottom of my reservoir... come to find out it is common and not a "sign" of failure.

Not sure if this is helpful but thought I would report back anyway...

:cheers:
 
Last edited:
I bought a test kit from Napa, tested 4 times (2 times I did not drain enough coolant) no HG issues yet on my truck but will test every oil change.
 
THANK YOU! ill be buying -renting- w/e a kit before i go look at an 80! the HG issue has me to scared to really pull the trigger on one maybe this will give me the kick i need.
 
THANK YOU! ill be buying -renting- w/e a kit before i go look at an 80! the HG issue has me to scared to really pull the trigger on one maybe this will give me the kick i need.

Do not get wrapped up in HG Paranoia, just test the ones you are looking at (bubble test, milky cap/dipstick, Napa block test). I got mine with out testing anything and got lucky. But having said that I had money set a side to do a full PM maintenance and tune up as well as HG if needed. It also helps if you can do all your own work witch with an 80 series is a good thing to have.
 
Do not get wrapped up in HG Paranoia, just test the ones you are looking at (bubble test, milky cap/dipstick, Napa block test). I got mine with out testing anything and got lucky. But having said that I had money set a side to do a full PM maintenance and tune up as well as HG if needed. It also helps if you can do all your own work witch with an 80 series is a good thing to have.

i can do some but im :banana::banana:and a half at best
HG is above my comfort level....

i keep going back and forth i read alot saying they WILL fail at 200k i read that its no big deal just vent under the hood keep the temps down and itll last forever

some peopel say drive it till it blows some say do it before...
:bang:

if its not one thing its another i guess...
 
i can do some but im :banana::banana:and a half at best
HG is above my comfort level....

i keep going back and forth i read alot saying they WILL fail at 200k i read that its no big deal just vent under the hood keep the temps down and itll last forever

some peopel say drive it till it blows some say do it before...
:bang:

if its not one thing its another i guess...

Well I learned buy getting my hands dirty, it took years but there is really only one way to learn.

I would not hold much to the 200k HG thing, I think they are saying that by 200K it will have failed. But that's is also not the case as there are trucks running around with more than that on there originals. When I worked at Toyota we had a LX450 come in at 40k for a HG under warranty. So it can really happen at any time or not at all. As with anything I think it really depends on the maintenance and condition of the truck.

I think the decision to do it as PM or not is up to you. If you go on long distance trips with it or out into the deep back country all the time then maybe its a good idea. If you just mainly use it around town then wait till it blows, just be ready that if it blows do not drive it after and get it fixed quickly.

I will be using mine for long trips and deep back country so its on my list of things to do in the next year or two. But in the mean time I have other things that "NEED" fixing first and are higher on the list.

Besides the HG you need to remember that its a very overbuilt reliable truck. I would take a head gasket issue over other manufacturers issues with electrical and.....
 
Not the whole story though....as my gasket was blown but not internally but externally. No fluid into cylinders but all the coolant leaked out the back!. This test would not have picked it up. (For some reason, if the gasket blows out externally, it seems to go out the back...cylinder 6...1/3d down the engine block next to the firewall where you can't see it and near the same place a blown heater hose leaks...and no easier/harder to fix! Synptom?? Loss of coolant and drip from back after idling your car for AWHILE in park!
 
just test the ones you are looking at (bubble test, milky cap/dipstick, Napa block test).
In the checks mentioned above, can someone explain what to look for in the bubble test? Are you looking for actual bubbles in the coolant or oil? I'm assuming that with the milky cap/dipstick check you are just looking for milky white residue on the oil cap and/or dipstick. Please correct me if I'm wrong on that.
Thanks.
 
I'm pretty sure by bubble test he means, when you look in the reserve coolant tank by lifting the cap slightly is the tube thats in there blowing bubbles? Bubbles would indicate exhaust gases getting past the "Head Gasket" ergo a blown head gasket.
 
Yes it would need to be running to build up the pressure for it to bubble at the radiator.
 
To check for bubbles in the radiator as opposed to the reserve tank the engine should be cold, then remove the rad. cap, then start vehicle, then observe the coolant through the hole for bubbles. If the engine is hot then when you remove the rad. cap coolant will spill out everywhere. Or you could get the free test kit mentioned above and be more scientific about it.
 
Thanks to all for your help. With the milky cap/dipstick check, are you just looking for milky white residue on the oil cap and/or dipstick?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom