as a recap and side note - to get the heater box out, you have to take off a piece of the heater box directly behind the heater control levers panel. it comes out very easy. 4 screws. However, putting it back in proved to be VERY VERY tricky.
also putting the whole deal back together, i realized you HAVE to have the speedometer cluster out in order to have some hands in there.
taking apart - AC box loosened, blower box taken out, AC box moved over, heater box slides out.
putting back together, heater box in and mounted, AC box placed but loose. Blower box put in place, then AC box tightened in and then blower box tightened in place.
This is also a great time to do any radio changes, redo any aftermarket wiring additions, add switches or panels, RAM mounts, etc.
I also soldered the tubes coming out of the heater core to prevent future leaks. My leak I had was the o-ring on 1 tube. I didn't realize that is what it was until it was all apart. Lots of work for a .05 cent o-ring!
I also re-foamed as much as possible on all the vent connects and flaps that open and close, and the heater core itself. (if re-foaming, get the soldering done first, then re-foam and slide it in)
On the driver side of the heater box, there is a fancy mechanism that opens and closes 3 vents at the same time. the cable that runs it is the Defrost, Heater, Vent cable. TAKE PICTURES of how this is put together if you decide to take this apart to re-foam the flaps. Once it is back in, if you have to redo it, you have to take the heater box back out to do it.
anyway - hope this info helps somebody down the road with a heater core change or replacement.
I will also carry as a spare part, an elbow hose that will allow me to bypass the heater core in the future, if i need to. I can go from the control valve on the firewall to the tube that goes back to the water pump, and the heater core can sit there and be out of the loop and not cause problems, waiting its turn in line of problems to be fixed.