How To Remove Center Dash Panel (Windshield Washer Pump No Worky)

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PabloCruise

PabloCruise

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My windshield washer pump does not get power from the switch. When I pull power direct from battery it squirts like a champ.

I am writing about my 1974 Pig.

It looks like I need to pull the center panel on my dash to gain access to my switch for windsheild wipers/washer so I can check continuity at the switch.

I removed the six screws that hold the center panel on, and pulled the trim pad below the panel.

I have no radio in the hole.

It felt like there was a lot still holding the panel in place. I was running out of daylight, so I just put everything back together and bagged it until I could ask my Pig friends how to get that panel off/out?
 
I'm having the same issue. Mine seems to be either a grounding issue or a bad switch. First of all like most Toyota circuits the washer is hot from the fuse all the way to the switch (horn circuit is simular). The switch when turned goes to ground to connect the circuit. You should have power to the 6-pin connector on the back of the switch.

You don't have to remove the dash plate just take the knob off the stem by backing the small screw off and unscrewing the knob from the stem. Then remove the threaded aluminum nut from front of the switch and push the entire switch back under the dash plate. Remove the vent plenum (2 bolts) and you should be able to access the switch from the bottom of the dash. If that doesn't work you can go after it by removing the dash cluster and reaching inside.

Let us know what you find out - mine has been driving me nuts for a few months.
 
the center dash panel is a complete pain in the ass. there are numerous cable(choke and heater controls) attached, as well as the tabs that hold the wiring harness up, which since they are on the removable dash panel make removing it a complete pain. I have had to give in and remove the instrument panel to get the center panel out.

reach up there and feel if the single wire connector is on the tab that is by itself, towards the knob part of the switch.
 
Ming89FJ62 said:
I'm having the same issue. Mine seems to be either a grounding issue or a bad switch. First of all like most Toyota circuits the washer is hot from the fuse all the way to the switch (horn circuit is simular). The switch when turned goes to ground to connect the circuit. You should have power to the 6-pin connector on the back of the switch.

You don't have to remove the dash plate just take the knob off the stem by backing the small screw off and unscrewing the knob from the stem. Then remove the threaded aluminum nut from front of the switch and push the entire switch back under the dash plate. Remove the vent plenum (2 bolts) and you should be able to access the switch from the bottom of the dash. If that doesn't work you can go after it by removing the dash cluster and reaching inside.

Let us know what you find out - mine has been driving me nuts for a few months.
Click to expand...

Crikey! What a PITA.

I pulled the vent plenum and that just allowed me to reach up in there and feel my switch.

I'll re-emphasize what Ming said - once you unscrew the set-screw, you have to unscrew the knob...

Like I say, all I could do was feel the switch once I got it free, there was not enough slck in the harness to drop it below the panel. I did not want to pull the connectors, b/c I was running out of daylight and thought I would never get it back in!

Regarding Brett's comment about the sngle connector towards the forward part of the switch, it was there.

I think I will check the wiring at the pump - one of them has to show ground!
 
No. If you check for power at the connector at the pump one will show hot the other will show nothing - there's no ground since the contact at the switch is normally open and you have an open circuit. You only close the circuit when the switch is turned and the pump is plugged in.

The wire from the pump to the switch is hot only if the pump is connected.
 
Well I never fixed the squirter, but now I am back to wanting to pull the panel so I can install a hand throttle where the choke lives and a check engine light in the blank to the left of the rear window switch.

Does anyone have any images of what it takes to pull the center dash panel?
 
It is pretty easy, but watch out for the heater switch. In my pig it hangs a little low and catches on the bottom when you try to pull out the center portion. In fact, it was bent a bit and after bending it back, the heater switch works a lot better.
 
I have not fixed my squirter yet, but I did pick-up scouthead's extra center dash panel to help me with my squirter switch and check engine light project.

When I got it, I noticed the fan switch was integrated into the Fresh/Recirc selector! I had not seen this before on a Pig. It is a 2 position fan switch, while the seperate fan switch in my '74 is a 3 position switch? (I think?)

Scouthead thought it came out of a '73, so I thought I would see if anyone else could verify.

SOR website shows same panel for 9/'72 - 7/'80, and only two heater switchs: 1968 to 9/'73 and then 9/'73 to 7/'80. This panel, combined with these pictures indicates there was an additional scenario.

This might help future searchers looking for info on model year variations, dash switches, etc.

I posted pics of the panel I got from scouthead and pics from another thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/fj55-iron-...533-check-engine-light-center-panel-dash.html

My '74 panel:
attachment.php


offkilter's '71
attachment.php


PS: this extra panel I picked up had a seperate ground strap added to the back, not sure if they were trying to fix windshield squirter as well?

Panel from scouthead:
p_00149.webp
p_00152.webp
 
mine isnt that bad,,,, i pull the pad and screws. pretty sure i do something with the choke, but then the panel pulls out about 5-6" with everything still attached. once there you unplug the electrical and unscrew the heater/fan control set, i think its 3 screws with one hiding underneath.
 
Ming89FJ62 said:
I'm having the same issue. Mine seems to be either a grounding issue or a bad switch. First of all like most Toyota circuits the washer is hot from the fuse all the way to the switch (horn circuit is simular). The switch when turned goes to ground to connect the circuit. You should have power to the 6-pin connector on the back of the switch.

You don't have to remove the dash plate just take the knob off the stem by backing the small screw off and unscrewing the knob from the stem. Then remove the threaded aluminum nut from front of the switch and push the entire switch back under the dash plate. Remove the vent plenum (2 bolts) and you should be able to access the switch from the bottom of the dash. If that doesn't work you can go after it by removing the dash cluster and reaching inside.

Let us know what you find out - mine has been driving me nuts for a few months.
Click to expand...

Ming89FJ62 said:
No. If you check for power at the connector at the pump one will show hot the other will show nothing - there's no ground since the contact at the switch is normally open and you have an open circuit. You only close the circuit when the switch is turned and the pump is plugged in.

The wire from the pump to the switch is hot only if the pump is connected.
Click to expand...

I was taking a look at the extra switch I got from scouthead to see what I could learn from it.

In these pics I try to show where the lead attaches to close the ground to the squirter.

In the last pic, I am twisting the knob to actuate the squirter - you can see how it would close the tab to ground, thus completing the circuit.

BTW: SOR shows 4 different switches for the windshield washer: Specter Off-Road Land Cruiser Parts - Search On 176-03
MVC-506F.webp
MVC-503F.webp
MVC-505F.webp
 
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