How to clear ABS light?

[mnwolftrack]

I've got a '94 LC with ABS light on. I've already done a search trying to find out how to clear the ABS light, but all I find are posts of people asking the same question, or how to read the code (jump E1 to Tc if the post I read was accurate). My ABS system actually works properly even with the light on, and I think the problem is slightly warped rotors (can feel it in the pedal). I'd like to clear the code and verify by hitting the brakes hard (which is when I feel the peddle shudder and when the ABS light turned on during a hard stop).

 

[blkprj80]

Pull the code first so you know what it's trying to tell you. That's important.
You not only jumper E1 to Tc, but you pull a small jumper too. It's in the FSM.

Once I cleared the problem on mine (dirty relay contacts), the light went away.
ABS works when I try to lock them up on snow, so all seems good.

 

[izzyandsue]

FSM states to jump as you mention, then get in driver sit, ignition on, and within 3 seconds hit brake pedal 8 times. There's a PDF photo of that in the forum, can't remember exactly where

 

[blkprj80]

^^^ Correct.

Jumper Tc to E1.
Key on.
Press brake pedal 8 times within the first 3 seconds.
Check the warning light shows the normal code [assuming they mean flash every half second here].
Remove the jumper.
Check that the warning light goes off.
[assume key off here]


When the light comes back on, you will likely want to pull the codes.
For that:
Remove the flat little metal jumper from the DLC plug. Don't drop it. Put it someplace really safe.
Install jumper Tc to E1.
Key on.
Count flashes.
Example: 2 3 would be two flashes, 1.5 second pause, three flashes, 4 second pause, then two - three again and again. Or it might show an additional code and then repeat.
If flashing rapidly without any pauses, it doesn't have a code stored.
Key off, one jumper in, other out, and you're good. Unless you drop that jumper!

Knowing the actual code may save you a lot of guessing and assumption. It might tell you you've got a wheel bearing going out and the sensor is getting destroyed in the process. Stranger things have happened.

 

[mnwolftrack]

Thanks everyone for the instructions. I agree, the first step will be to extract the code(s). I wanted to know the way to clear them so I could verify if the code is still ongoing or not (or possibly an old code). In the process of fixing a broken wire at the 02 sensor, I unplugged the battery for about 30 minutes to do some soldering, and that appeared to be enough to clear the ABS light. I drove around 40 miles before the ABS light came back on today. It's about -2F (not that it matters) and the light came on during a gradual stop just as I was about stopped. But now I'll have a way to retrieve and clear codes. As for the brake fluid level, it was about 1/16" above the low mark, but I drained the reservior with a vacuum pump as best i could and loaded it with fresh stuff up to the MAX line. That didn't seem to have any effect on the ABS light being on or off. I thought I had a factory service manual somewhere, but in our process of building a new heated garage, absolutely everything is displaced. I'm pretty sure I have a Haynes, but I don't recall it discussing ABS.

 

[auh]

I keep trying this procedure and my abs light just won't clear. When I jump the e1 and tc1 all I'm getting is code 28. Nothing brake related but this light just won't go off.

 

[blkprj80]

What year is your Land Cruiser, auh?
Did you pull the shorting bar also? Not sure which year(s) that might apply though...

 

[SmokingRocks]

I just put a piece of electrical tape over the light. Has worked fine for me since I bought her.

 

[auh]

I have a '93 with lockers. I think I read that the light turns on when the lockers are on but I've never used them if that makes any difference

 

[mnwolftrack]

I've since cleared the code, and had it come on again and read it. It's code 43. I found an online copy of the FSM and it says it's the vehicle Deceleration Sensor or it's harness. I've only seemed to have found one thread on this forum about it, and the person replaced it and the code came back. The thread wasn't updated after that. I'm going to pull the shifter console off and see if I can see anything obvious.

 

[blkprj80]

From what I can see in the FSM and EWD for my 1996, the ABS ECU is behind the left kick panel. You might want to locate the ABS ECU and unplug the connectors and check them for corrosion. I'm not sure, but they might be in an area where a windshield seal leak might cause problems.

Sometimes just reseating a connector will bring it back to life.

 

[mnwolftrack]

Good point. I do have a windshield leak on that side. I'm going to check that before I check the deceleration sensor.

 

[izzyandsue]

That's great insight, I have a code 43 too that comes and goes, light also turns on and off by itself. And I jut sealed the windshield last weekend. So checking connector when it gets warm outside again. This winter thing is not for me.

 

[mnwolftrack]

Thus far, I've pulled out what I think is the ABS computer, if it's the largest metal box behind the driver side kick panel. All wiring looks good and I don't see evidence of water damage. I then pulled off the shifter console/trim and center console, and the deceleration wiring looks good as well. But I did find something else, and it may or may not be related. My overdrive light has never worked, and now I know why. The wiring for the O/D button is burned up, literally. One wire is completely fried down to bare wire all the way, and the wiring is either cut off or burned up beyond that. The bright blue sheathing surrounding the 2 wires inside is also a bit melted. I will have to post another thread about it. I don't know where this O/D button wiring is supposed to go. I looked at all the other wiring between the seats and don't see anything obvious. Part of me thinks whatever burned up the wiring for the o/d button may have burned into the deceleration sensor wiring. I can see evidence of where the O/D wiring (bright blue sheathing) used to be, because it's melted to a few things right at the shifter stick. But beyond that I can't tell where it was supposed to go (besides the obvious--to the transmission computer, which I can see labeled as such behind the driver's kick panel).