How to change your PHH quick! (1 Viewer)

[TexasJack]

Ice your fingers by drinking a cold refreshment!....Ice your fingers is about right. There is nothing easy about this even if you do it on a rack. There isn't room for your hands in there and getting the old hose off is like crapping a watermelon. You will be lucky if you aren't icing both hands when you are done.

.....and yeah, there is no way in hell you are getting to it without removing the drivers side wheel/tire. Even then, you have to get inside the wheel well and it is up and to your right.....a real pain in the ass any way you look at it.

 

[CRUISER TIME]

Ice your fingers by drinking a cold refreshment!....Ice your fingers is about right. There is nothing easy about this even if you do it on a rack. There isn't room for your hands in there and getting the old hose off is like crapping a watermelon. You will be lucky if you aren't icing both hands when you are done.

.....and yeah, there is no way in **** you are getting to it without removing the drivers side wheel/tire. Even then, you have to get inside the wheel well and it is up and to your right.....a real pain in the ass any way you look at it.

soo true,,lol Those that thought changing the fuel filter on a 1996 Cruiser was annoying, that will now be like changing the oil filter,,,,seriously. Not much room. Small hands do help.

Cruiser Time

 

[bajaphile]

Re-reading my original post... I didn't really express...

The only real tip that I was trying to stress was the use of a Dremel to buzz off the PHH hose and clamps. I was sitting there for a while trying to undo/snip off the hose and clamps with side cutters. Then the light finally turned on and I grabbed my Dremel tool and it was done. Also I read a lot about using the ratchet style boxed end wrenches...to reiterate, mine didn't fit, but the 1/4" drive with 12mm socket fit perfect and had enough torque to break the bolt free on the bottom mount.

This might have been an obvious idea for many...but I didn't think of it until I was really pissed and fatigued from trying to get the hose and clamps off

 

[jertiffauk]

Re-reading my original post... I didn't really express...

The only real tip that I was trying to stress was the use of a Dremel to buzz off the PHH hose and clamps. I was sitting there for a while trying to undo/snip off the hose and clamps with side cutters. Then the light finally turned on and I grabbed my Dremel tool and it was done. Also I read a lot about using the ratchet style boxed end wrenches...to reiterate, mine didn't fit, but the 1/4" drive with 12mm socket fit perfect and had enough torque to break the bolt free on the bottom mount.

This might have been an obvious idea for many...but I didn't think of it until I was really pissed and fatigued from trying to get the hose and clamps off

Thanks for the heads up! Always looking to save some time and cussing

 

[yotaslave]

I used a tool I got from Harbor Freight. It's about 2 feet long and very thin with a flexible 1/4" drive on 1 end and a flexible 3/8" drive on the other. It worked awesome for the PITA rear bolt.

 

[jbsax]

Re-reading my original post... I didn't really express...

The only real tip that I was trying to stress was the use of a Dremel to buzz off the PHH hose and clamps. I was sitting there for a while trying to undo/snip off the hose and clamps with side cutters. Then the light finally turned on and I grabbed my Dremel tool and it was done."


Be VERY careful with the Dremel. I went this route and it worked well. I also didn't let the wheel stop spinning before I tried to remove the dremel and cut the knock sensor wire. That was a lot of fun to fix.

 

[MartyMcSupafly]

You guys are my heroes!!!!

 

[LandCruisinMike]

1fzfe.com ?

 

[canman]

There's is nothing quick about this. After about 4 hrs I (I mean my wife) finally got the PIA bolt out. My PPH has been leaking slowly for about a year. My starter has been acting up for the last few months, so I decided to finally tackle the PHH. This is what I did:

1. Remove DS front tire.
2. Remove rear most inner wheel well skirt.
3. Remove starter.
4. Remove hose clamp on rear heater supply hose above rear O2 sensor.
5. Remove rear heater hose and drain coolant.
6. Loosen clamps on PHH using 1/4 drive ratchet.
7. Remove clamps (mine were Tridon worm gear type - not sure if this is original spec) using cordless drill with 2 x 6" plus 1 x 3" (1/4") drive socket extensions with 8 mm socket. I used some long needle nose pliers with 45 degree bend to hold clamps while I loosened the worm gear hex using the 15" long extension I made.
8. Loosen spring clamps that connect hose from heater valve to PHH steel coolant tube.
9. Remove hose.
10. Remove upper bolt that secures coolant tube to intake.
11. Remove two bolts that secure plastic wiring conduit to firewall next to heater valve.
12. Remove two bolts that secure heater valve to firewall.
13. Move heater valve and brkt in front of electrical wiring and bend to PS to allow better access to PIA coolant tube bolt.
14. Loosen PIA bolt using 12mm reversible ratchet/ gear type wrench.
15. After much time spent cursing & swearing with no results, get wife to reach down and hand loosen PIA bolt and remove in less than 1 minute.
16. STOP. Tell her she's the best and that you'll do anything...
17. This is as far as I got tonight...I think the rest should be easy. Oh try not to break the grill while leaning and lying on top of engine.

 

[Kmart]

Can someone please help? I am about to loose my mind, which I think is pretty normal, but still doesn't make it any easier. I finally got the PHH off, but I cannot get the replacement hose on. Do I have to loosen both bolts on the hard metal heater hose? Do you come at the bottom bolt from the top or bottom? Once you have both bolts free, do you remove the entire tube and then put the replacement hose on? I read on the SLEE page that someone just removed the top bolt, moved the tube slightly to get the replacement hose on the metal tube and then slid it down onto the engine nipple. I tried that method and ended up cutting off the new gates hose that I had put on because I could not get it over the nipple no matter how hard I tried - it kept binding up on one side of the nipple and I damaged it trying to get it over the nipple. Any help would be greatly appreciated because I am out of ideas. BTW, I have a length of silicone hose that I am going to try now. Thanks in advance.

 

[Pin_Head]

The easy way is to remove the metal tube first:
1. Cut the lower hose (PHH) in half and let the fluid leak out.
2. Remove the upper hose and the upper tube bracket bolt.
3. Wiggle the tube back and forth for 5 minutes to break off the lower tube mounting bracket. (No need to fool around with trying to get this PITA bolt out).
4. Lift tube up and out. Install new hose on bench with clamps. Remove the remaining half of the PHH underneath. This is much easier to do with the tube out because there is more room.
5. lower hose assembly into position, shove hose end onto head nipple and tighten clamp.
6. assemble the upper part.
This can be accomplished in about 1 hour with no special tools and no injuries or cursing.

 

[Kmart]

Wow - that sounds way easier than what I have been through. Two questions

1) Which way do you wiggle the tube to break the bracket?
2) When you put the new hose on, do you have to put it all the way up on the metal tube, put the tube into position, and then slide it down and onto the nipple (this is what I could not accomplish on my first attempt). Or can you just put half of it onto the metal tube, and then slide the remaining half over the engine nipple while putting the the tube back in position?

Thank you again.

 

[george_tlc]

1) search to find the description, it basically requires wiggling/rotating it so as to snap off the tab from the hardline.

2) with the bottom bolt/tab no longer "in play/holding the hardline captive" it is easy to slip the PHH piece on - it will be obvious when you get to question 2)...

cheers,
george.

 

[Pin_Head]

It doesn't matter which way you wiggle it. If you bend the upper bracket 90 degrees, you can wiggle it farther left to right which might break it quicker. It will break off. Yes. you just slide the new PHH/tube assembly on to the head nipple. It goes on easy. This minimizes the time you spend underneath in the tight space to just cutting the hose, getting the other half of the PHH of the head and tightening the clamp on the new PHH.

 

[86tuning]

When I do them (and I've done a few) I use a piece of genuine Toyota hose and order two new spring clamps from Toyota. About $10 from the dealership. The reason is that the old one has lasted 15 years, and its slightly softer and easier to install than aftermarket hose. The new one will last 10-15 years as long as the valvecover oil leaks are repaired first. The spring clamps are easy to install, and are constant force, unlike worm clamps. I'm sure the fancy constant torque clamps work too, but they're harder to put on than the Toyota spring clamps.

I have a can of silicone spray handy, and a grinder to cut off the old clamp. My prybar is 3' long but a 2' one will work fine as well. After the old clamp is cut and the spring clamp is removed I slice the old hose to remove it completely.

I remove the upper bolt on the pipe. I spend 5 minutes to loosen the lower bolt on the pipe but do not remove it. Then I pry the pipe sideways to offset it slightly so I can slip the hose on. Clean up the pipe ends with some Scotchbrite and some soapy water so that there are no crusties or corrosion present. A nice shiny smooth surface is ideal.

I slide the new clamps up the pipe a bit and hold them up out of the way with some tape. This is important because you can easily forget the clamps with all the excitement and fighting going on.

Wet the inside of the new hose with some silicone spray, and also the ends of the pipes. Slide the new hose up the pipe a bit, then pry the pipe back in place to line it up. Slide the hose on, tighten up all the bolts, pry a bit more if required to line up the pipes as perfectly as possible. Then slip the new clamps in place and remove the red locking tabs.

The most difficult part of this whole operation is the lower bolt. I have a few fancy wrenches to help me access it. A flex-socket 12mm wrench, and a flex-head 1/4" drive ratchet allow me access to this tight spot. Small hands, good strength and dexterity probably help a bit too.

 

[86tuning]

I suppose you could crack off the lower pipe bolt tab, but I'm a stickler for putting things back exactly as I've found them. My reasoning is that its lasted 15 years already, I would like this to be a permanent repair that will last as long as I'm keeping this truck.

That bolt is hard to reach. I only loosen it a few turns and don't remove it, because it will be impossible to re-install.

It's definitely pesky, but not impossible. One other tip, jack up the truck as high as you can with TALL jackstands under the frame. Allow the left front to droop as far as possible after the tire is removed so you can get a few more inches of space to get in there.

Good luck!

 

[bobthebuilder]

This looks about as much fun as replacing the passenger side valve cover gasket on my wifes Outback XT. The Outbacks have a 2" body lift that puts the frame rail in perfect alignment of the valve cover bolts. Dealer quotes around $250-$300 for the job. I had it done it 3.5 hours with plenty of grumping (I also installed the coil packs wrong). I can't wait to do it on a LandCruiser!

 

[mattafact]

It's not that hard. I've done 2 of them. The first time took 4 hours to do in the dark. The last time took me half an hour and a sore arm. No big deal.

I had one go out in Mexico and I found a mechanic and paid him $20 to change it out. Took him about 2 hours.

 

[Kmart]

One thing is for sure, there are a lot of opinions out there. Some people think they are easy, and some think they are hard. I think if you go in to the project expecting it to be a bear, you can only be pleasantly surprised. I have a real hard time believing anyone could do this in half of an hour regardless of experience. I think most on here would agree that is an unrealistic expectation. Thanks for the advice everyone.

 

[jblatl]

Remove the lower bolt on the hard line, leave it out. You wull never get it back in. The toyota spring clamps are the way to go. Use a gear wrentch to extract the lower bolt, DO NOT STRIP IT. I am a 1 banana and it took me an hour.
Beer. Beer. Beer....

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