How to change your PHH quick! (1 Viewer)

[Kmart]

Back to the original question - do you go at the lower bolt from the top or bottom? I do have a set of gear wrenches.

 

[jblatl]

Bottom

Sent from my SPH-L710 using IH8MUD

 

[Kmart]

Thanks again everyone.

 

[Pin_Head]

Why go to the trouble of removing the bottom tube bracket bolt when you can break off the mounting tab in 5 minutes while you are drinking a beer? You are not going to get it back on again unless you pull the engine. You can get the bolt out easily after you remove the tube.

 

[george_tlc]

Why go to the trouble of removing the bottom tube bracket bolt when you can break off the mounting tab in 5 minutes while you are drinking a beer? You are not going to get it back on again unless you pull the engine. You can get the bolt out easily after you remove the tube.

Some folk seem to "enjoy" keeping the "P" aspect of doing the PHH job and ensuring when they do it again in the future they can "enjoy" the whole process a 2nd time.

I'm with you - break the stupid tab and dee-pee the whole job

cheers,
george.

 

[jblatl]

I removed the bolt with patience, was woried about damaging the tube.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using IH8MUD

 

[Kmart]

I thought I would update the thread since I finally finished the project. I did end up removing the metal tube as discussed in the thread (instead of breaking it off). I used the 1/4-inch drive and some patience, but honestly it wasn't too bad compared to other aspects of the project, and removing the tube made it much easier to get the replacement section of hose back on.

I am also including a picture of the pliers I used to get the spring clamp off the original hose (the clamp on the engine side). I had a heck of a time with that clamp because of the orientation, but once I purchased these at Advance Auto, things went much better.

Thanks again for all of the assistance.

 

[ppc]

How about another picture with a ruler or other object of known size so the size of the pliers can be judged.

 

[DeuceMakesAsplash]

Subscribed

 

[terrance lim]

I know there are PLENTY of posts on the Pesky Heater hose, but thought I'd document my experience, and help anyone who's worried about doing the task.

First off, its not as bad as most people make it. I think if I were to do it again, it would take me no more then an hour or 2. (As long as I was having a lucky day )

Tools:

• 3/8" Drive Ratchet and 12mm socket
• 1/4" Drive Ratchet and 12mm socket
• Dremel with Flex-Shaft attachment and cut off wheel

1. Drain coolant from block
2. Remove ATF Dipstick and tube
3. Zip tie random hoses out of the way to frame rail for extra room
4. Remove upper mount for hard line (Next to EGR Valve)
5. Remove the PIA, invisible lower mount using a 1/4" Drive Ratchet and 12mm socket. I have the Gear Wrenches and the OD of the wrench wouldn't fit correctly. The standard 12mm socket fit perfectly and came off in 5 minutes.
6. Using the Dremel and extension, zip off the old hose clamps, and be careful not to go too deep to hit the actual hard lines. I went ahead and just cut the hose lengthwise. This made it easy to pull off
7. Lube up your new hose with something light. I just used some Vaseline. Slide on to loose hard line, put on your clamps, and slide onto the block nipple.
8. Took a little bit of patience to get the lower mount bolt back in, but eventually got it.
9. Ice your fingers by drinking a cold refreshment!

I wonder can we use the wd40 instead of Vaseline? To put the phh back in

 

[Kernal]

IME a light swipe of coolant/antifreeze will work to lube the hose/pipe if needed and won't harm the rubber.

 

[ppc]

Use dish soap.