How to Change FJ62 Dash Color (1 Viewer)

WoodnotRust

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@grayfj62turd How did you resolve your dash pad issue? I'm in a similar situation, but it is because I finally bought the new OEM grey dash pad after several (unsuccessful) attempts to find the Sepia Brown dash. I plan to paint the new dash with SEM "Cordovan Brown" per @iCruiser 's method. I hope that you did the same and can report that this has held-up well in the sun (no fading or peeling). Please let us know how it turned out and send pic's if possible. Thanks
 

Scro

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@grayfj62turd How did you resolve your dash pad issue? I'm in a similar situation, but it is because I finally bought the new OEM grey dash pad after several (unsuccessful) attempts to find the Sepia Brown dash. I plan to paint the new dash with SEM "Cordovan Brown" per @iCruiser 's method. I hope that you did the same and can report that this has held-up well in the sun (no fading or peeling). Please let us know how it turned out and send pic's if possible. Thanks
I would spray a UV clear coat.


This product looks like a better choice.
 
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WoodnotRust

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I would spray a UV clear coat.


This product looks like a better choice.
That sounds like a good suggestion. Have you used this on a dash before?

I'll will check if the UV protectants you mentioned above are also compatible with the SEM color coat. I could not find a ColorBond color that confidently matches the Sepia Brown in the FJ62, so right now I'm sticking with the SEM "Cordovan brown" that is supposed to be a close match.

The SEM paint tech sheet ( https://manage.semproducts.com/public/content/techsheets/TDS_color_coat.pdf ) only says "Fade resistant", which makes me think that a good UV protectant might help. I couldn't find a SEM UV topcoat, so I sent ColorBond an e-mail asking if their UV protectant is designed for application over their own color coat...if so, it's probably OK with the SEM paint too?

Interestingly, ColorBond is willing to mix a custom color if you buy a minimum order of 48 cans (about $800). That said, there seems to be a preference on the forum for the SEM product line. Is that because SEM is longer lasting or just because the SEM color is a closer match? I read that ColorBond is a single-step process with some type of vinyl/plastic bonding agent incorporated into the color coat, whereas the SEM method requires a separate "primer" specific to the underlying medium.
 

Scro

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That sounds like a good suggestion. Have you used this on a dash before?

I'll will check if the UV protectants you mentioned above are also compatible with the SEM color coat. I could not find a ColorBond color that confidently matches the Sepia Brown in the FJ62, so right now I'm sticking with the SEM "Cordovan brown" that is supposed to be a close match.

The SEM paint tech sheet ( https://manage.semproducts.com/public/content/techsheets/TDS_color_coat.pdf ) only says "Fade resistant", which makes me think that a good UV protectant might help. I couldn't find a SEM UV topcoat, so I sent ColorBond an e-mail asking if their UV protectant is designed for application over their own color coat...if so, it's probably OK with the SEM paint too?

Interestingly, ColorBond is willing to mix a custom color if you buy a minimum order of 48 cans (about $800). That said, there seems to be a preference on the forum for the SEM product line. Is that because SEM is longer lasting or just because the SEM color is a closer match? I read that ColorBond is a single-step process with some type of vinyl/plastic bonding agent incorporated into the color coat, whereas the SEM method requires a separate "primer" specific to the underlying medium.
SEM is good quality and the color match is the best available.
Haven’t used colorbond yet, I have a new gray dash that I’m going to paint when temps warm up. I will use Prep All to clean the dash then SEM Plastic Adhesion Promoter, 3-4 light coats of SEM Cordovan Brown and the colorbond uv clear.
I‘ll post results in 4-6 weeks.
 

MoaByte

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Slightly off topic...
The SEM graphite grey is a close match to the grey console. I tested it on the a spot and other than it's more glossy, it's a dead ringer. The plastic prep is about $30 (paint $18) I'm wondering if it is nessasary and if so, is it acetone or some other solvent? Maybe the prep is used to make the worn surfaces more uniform?
The spot I tested it and seems to be durable. Anybody already learned the hardway what not to do?
 

MoaByte

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I hardness tested the color check. On a new dash, I don't believe the prep spray is even necessary. The stuff is stronger than any spray paint I've ever seen. It bonds into the plastic.
 

WoodnotRust

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A new dash is $500+, $30 seems like cheap insurance. One way to find out, failure is the best teacher.
Response back from the CEO of ColorBond:

LVP is UV stable and you will not experience a color shift with the exceptions of color with predominately red pigment . Certified by Ford for four years.
UV clear is generally for vehicles that are subjected daily to UV, like a convertible interior. South, Southwest, Southern California and Florida are targets . It is not necessary but it never hurts. They are compatible.


I'll double check the compatibility of the SEM and UV clear and probably get it done in the next couple of weeks using the method you've outlined above. Sounds right to me!
 
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Slightly off topic...
The SEM graphite grey is a close match to the grey console. I tested it on the a spot and other than it's more glossy, it's a dead ringer. The plastic prep is about $30 (paint $18) I'm wondering if it is nessasary and if so, is it acetone or some other solvent? Maybe the prep is used to make the worn surfaces more uniform?
The spot I tested it and seems to be durable. Anybody already learned the hardway what not to do?
Acetone will melt some plastics. Be careful.
 
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Yep, I might be a mountain kid, born on the plains, and living in a desert, but I don't know enough about plastics to do more than ask, or test a spot.
I had a coworker in the pawn shop try to clean guitars with acetone once. The horror.... the horror....
 

WoodnotRust

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SEM is good quality and the color match is the best available.
Haven’t used colorbond yet, I have a new gray dash that I’m going to paint when temps warm up. I will use Prep All to clean the dash then SEM Plastic Adhesion Promoter, 3-4 light coats of SEM Cordovan Brown and the colorbond uv clear.
I‘ll post results in 4-6 weeks.
Hi Tex ( @Scro )..have you painted your dash yet? I noticed that SEM recommends 38343 Vinyl Prep prior to the Color Coat (not Plastic Adhesion Promoter 39863), so I wondered if it worked OK for you?


I believe the "acetone" test used to decide between "39863 Adhesion Promoter" or "38363 Sand Free" is meant for hard plastics (like my center console) and not for vinyl. When I did that test, the vinyl on my new OEM gray dash pad got sticky and the dye/paint came off, so in this case too, the Adhesion Promoter would not be the recommended choice.

I did buy the Colorbond UV Clear and will use that instead of the SEM 39643 Tack Free for the top coat. I read mixed reviews about Tack Free and allowing for sufficient dry time seems like a critical part of avoiding discoloration of the underlying color coat. Probably applies to the UV Clear paint too.

So...I've stopped my project for the moment while I await the arrival of the SEM soap and the 38343 Vinyl Prep.
 

Scro

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Hi Tex ( @Scro )..have you painted your dash yet? I noticed that SEM recommends 38343 Vinyl Prep prior to the Color Coat (not Plastic Adhesion Promoter 39863), so I wondered if it worked OK for you?


I believe the "acetone" test used to decide between "39863 Adhesion Promoter" or "38363 Sand Free" is meant for hard plastics (like my center console) and not for vinyl. When I did that test, the vinyl on my new OEM gray dash pad got sticky and the dye/paint came off, so in this case too, the Adhesion Promoter would not be the recommended choice.

I did buy the Colorbond UV Clear and will use that instead of the SEM 39643 Tack Free for the top coat. I read mixed reviews about Tack Free and allowing for sufficient dry time seems like a critical part of avoiding discoloration of the underlying color coat. Probably applies to the UV Clear paint too.

So...I've stopped my project for the moment while I await the arrival of the SEM soap and the 38343 Vinyl Prep.
No I haven’t started that project yet. Thanks for the heads up.
That would have been a mess to use 39863, glad I didn’t screw up your project 😳

Are you going to paint soon.
 

Scro

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No I haven’t started that project yet. Thanks for the heads up.
That would have been a mess to use 39863, glad I didn’t screw up your project 😳

Are you going to paint soon.
This is a screen shot for future reference.
228108F4-5A54-4E82-BBAC-A3E14D85BF6B.png
 

WoodnotRust

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Hi Scro.. I see on your screen shot of the SEM guide (Item 4) that Adhesion promoter works on most plastics and paints. Maybe it isn't necessary to use the recommended Vinyl prep...I know that other MUD members have used it, but unsure how it might work with a brand-new vinyl dash.

I plan to paint the dash pad in the next couple of weeks. I couldn't find the SEM vinyl prep locally, so I ordered it online today from "StockWise Auto". I'll post pics
 

WoodnotRust

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@iCruiser , do you mind chiming in to let us know if you've painted one of the new, grey OEM dash pads? If so, what prep did you use on the vinyl prior to the color coat?

Thanks
 

WoodnotRust

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OK...so I finally got around to painting the gray dash pad SEM brown. It only took about 2 hours including drying time once I got started, but I'll wait overnight before applying the UV protectant. Looks really good so far, so here are my steps:

1. Small amount of Dawn in big bucket of hot water and grey (v. fine) scrub pad. Big bucket of clean, hot rinse water afterward. I noticed that the water was beading on the surface at first and scrubbed until that went away.
2. SEM soap with scrub pad. Another bucket of hot rinse water. Set inside garage to dry for 1 hour.
3. Small amount of masking (probably unnecessary).
4. SEM Vinyl Prep (38343). I had 6 damp cloths on standby for this step and only let the Vinyl Prep set about 3-4 minutes before wiping it off. After 5-10 minutes, I noticed it didn't dry evenly and my cloths were still dirty so I did it again. When finished the cloths were clean and the surface looked dull and even. Do not paint if there are visible imperfections or shiny streaks.
4. Paint color coats. I waited another 10 minutes after the Vinyl Prep looked dry (20 minutes total). I did four light coats and used about 1/2 can.

5. Four light coats of the Colorbond UV protectant (satin, clear). Tech tips for those not super good with a rattle can: be sure spray tip is clean and clear. Mine "spit" a couple of times and after those droplets dried about 10 min I gently knocked the sheen of those spots. Delicate work to recover. Also, don't try to spray the inside of the vent hole as this can leave a slightly greater sheen around the perimeter where there is more clear coat. Very light coats, keep your distance and keep moving.

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