How to Change FJ62 Dash Color

[WoodnotRust]

Some imperfections that maybe only I"ll notice, but overall pretty pleased. Here's the dash after UV Colorbond:

Recap: Dawn soap, SEM soap, SEM Vinyl Prep, SEM Color Coat and ColorBond UV Protectant.

 

[garfieldthecat]

That looks awesome! I'm going to do this same project on a grey dash for my 60 that a previous owner spray painted a crappy glossy dark brown. I have been using discount store oven cleaner to remove the PO's crap paint job and will be getting the SEM products to re-do the job. I was debating between the Bluebird Brown (SEM PN#15483) and Cordovan Brown (SEM PN#15023). There's an auto paint supplier not too far that I can visit to compare hues, but I was wondering if you could share how many containers/aerosol cans of the SEM soap, SEM vinyl prep, SEM Color Coat, and ColorBond UV Protectant you needed to do the project? Also, now that its warming up here in the Southwest, how has the paint performed over the past month, assuming you have reinstalled it by now?

 

[WoodnotRust]

Hi...just happened to be online at the same time and I've been thinking about the color and finish. I have a full windows-out paint job scheduled for late summer and I've held off installing the dash while I do other fiddly things. One of those things was to fix the cigarette lighter, so I removed the A/C bezel which coincidently has a small bit of the original vinyl which matches the original dash, but is sheltered from the direct sun.

Here's a picture of the new grey OEM dash painted SEM Cordovan brown and the A/C bezel side-by-side: Notice the deeper vinyl grain and richer chocolate-brown color and glossier appearance of the A/C bezel piece. The SEM dash is rather muted in comparison. Doesn't look bad though, just different a little. For sure, I'll need to paint my A/C bezel piece to match the new dash pad.

To answer your questions: I used about 1/5 or less of the soap and hardly touched the vinyl prep. A little seems to go a long way. I used less than 1 can of Color Coat and a similar amount of UV Protectant. I bought a second can of the color coat for other parts and think that will give me plenty for the entire car.

Even though I haven't installed the part based on what I've read the SEM paint job should hold up for years, especially with the UV protectant. It's all about the prep work.

 

[garfieldthecat]

Wow, thank you for posting that comparison photo. I actually like the satin, low gloss finish of the SEM paint better than the OEM finish Especially for the dash where you (I, at least) don't want any glare from the sun bouncing back up at me. I have my broken up original brown dash and will take it with me when I go check out the color hues of brown I am considering. Thank you for letting me know about the quantities of the materials that were needed for the job. That lets me budget better

 

[iCruiser]

I've used Cordovan Bronw SEM with great success throughout the interior. The pic below compares to a dash I refinished with Cordovan Brown to an OEM pad I'm just beginning to restore. I used the SEM prep, texture, color and clear spray can products on this dash. Very pleased with the outcome.

 

[garfieldthecat]

Looks great. Thank you for the vote of confidence on the Cordovan Brown. I'll be going with that over the Bluebird Brown for sure now.

 

[garfieldthecat]

Today's discussion inspired me to get going on this dash restoration. Luckily, there doesn't appear to be major damage to the dash and there looks to be a good basis for the SEM Cordovan brown paint. I also wanted to share this link from a tuner forum on painting plastic and vinyl that includes links for buying SEM products on Amazon, should anyone else wish to undertake a similar effort in the future: Absolute Proper Way to Paint Plastic/Vinyl Interior Parts for the DIYer - https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/absolute-proper-way-to-paint-plastic-vinyl-interior-parts-for-the-diyer.365304/


By the way, I found that 70% isopropyl rubbing alcohol removes the spray paint much more effortlessly than the oven cleaner I was using.

 

[TheEngineer]

Hi...just happened to be online at the same time and I've been thinking about the color and finish. I have a full windows-out paint job scheduled for late summer and I've held off installing the dash while I do other fiddly things.

Do you mind sharing what you were quoted for paint? I’m patching small rust spots here and there to keep it alive until I can get a full respray. Trying to get some quotes this week but don’t know what to expect.

 

[WoodnotRust]

Good morning @TheEngineer . No, I don't mind at all and I think it is good to be forewarned regarding costs and prices...especially for those new to the LC world that don't have welding and automotive repair skills (and the tools), but still want a 30-40 yo 4-Wheel drive in new-car condition. You can count me in this category because even though I try to do a lot of the work myself, I just wasn't up for the task when it came to re-gearing axles and cutting up body parts to eliminate the rust.

I assumed I could get the car painted for $8-10K and I got a couple of reputable paint shops to suggest a price in that range, but not make any commitments regarding the details of that work. I found one guy in Arizona that did a great job for about that price, but when I talked to him on the phone I must have asked too many questions. He was extremely upset at another person who had him paint a 60-serires and he shut me down hard because he thought I was also going to make him do $15K worth of work for $10K. I went hunting for classic car paint shops in Albuquerque and Santa Fe and got quotes in the $16K to $20K range.

Of course, Kelly Saad in Flagstaff is well known on this forum and I went to him early on when I realized I had rust in my A-channels and probably a bit along my drip rails. He thought it would cost me something in the $18K range and I just couldn't imagine spending that much money on a paint job. Ultimately, I realized that I would probably need to spend $12K to get a quality paint job, but none of those paint shops were willing to tackle the rust in any meaningful way. After another month of looking for paint and body shops, my wife convinced me that if I really wanted to restore the car and keep it for a long time then I might as well do it right. My 23 year-old daughter loves the truck and maybe the next step is a Ford electrical truck motor 10 years from now.

I called Kelly and put money down for a paint job 5 months in the future. In the end I think it cost me about the $18K he quoted and I figured he was paid about $75/hr for the work that he did...maybe a bit more or less, but actually pretty reasonable when you consider that price included all paint and supplies, etc. One additional note: Kelly told me that my car had less rust than any other car he had worked on before, but even so, the rust he predicted at the bottoms of the doors and wheel arches was there even though it wasn't visible from the outside. See photos and think about 5 years down the road in all of those spots after you just spent $10K for a paint job.

So...what will it cost you? It really depends on the condition of your car and what you want to achieve. Some people like rust...they call it patina and will pay extra for it. There are places on these vehicles that just get rusted, period. If you don't cut that rust out it will eventually show up. If you don't treat it with POR or some other preventative it will show up sooner rather than later.

 

[TheEngineer]

Good morning @TheEngineer . No, I don't mind at all and I think it is good to be forewarned regarding costs and prices...especially for those new to the LC world that don't have welding and automotive repair skills (and the tools), but still want a 30-40 yo 4-Wheel drive in new-car condition. You can count me in this category because even though I try to do a lot of the work myself, I just wasn't up for the task when it came to re-gearing axles and cutting up body parts to eliminate the rust.

I assumed I could get the car painted for $8-10K and I got a couple of reputable paint shops to suggest a price in that range, but not make any commitments regarding the details of that work. I found one guy in Arizona that did a great job for about that price, but when I talked to him on the phone I must have asked too many questions. He was extremely upset at another person who had him paint a 60-serires and he shut me down hard because he thought I was also going to make him do $15K worth of work for $10K. I went hunting for classic car paint shops in Albuquerque and Santa Fe and got quotes in the $16K to $20K range.

Of course, Kelly Saad in Flagstaff is well known on this forum and I went to him early on when I realized I had rust in my A-channels and probably a bit along my drip rails. He thought it would cost me something in the $18K range and I just couldn't imagine spending that much money on a paint job. Ultimately, I realized that I would probably need to spend $12K to get a quality paint job, but none of those paint shops were willing to tackle the rust in any meaningful way. After another month of looking for paint and body shops, my wife convinced me that if I really wanted to restore the car and keep it for a long time then I might as well do it right. My 23 year-old daughter loves the truck and maybe the next step is a Ford electrical truck motor 10 years from now.

I called Kelly and put money down for a paint job 5 months in the future. In the end I think it cost me about the $18K he quoted and I figured he was paid about $75/hr for the work that he did...maybe a bit more or less, but actually pretty reasonable when you consider that price included all paint and supplies, etc. One additional note: Kelly told me that my car had less rust than any other car he had worked on before, but even so, the rust he predicted at the bottoms of the doors and wheel arches was there even though it wasn't visible from the outside. See photos and think about 5 years down the road in all of those spots after you just spent $10K for a paint job.

So...what will it cost you? It really depends on the condition of your car and what you want to achieve. Some people like rust...they call it patina and will pay extra for it. There are places on these vehicles that just get rusted, period. If you don't cut that rust out it will eventually show up. If you don't treat it with POR or some other preventative it will show up sooner rather than later.

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Thank you for the detailed response! I was expecting just a price range but the extra information is greatly appreciated. I’ve been all over my truck looking in nooks and crannies and I can’t find anything beyond superficial surface rust so far. Im hoping it’s minimal damage but like you said, it can be hidden. I’ll try to get a quote this week and post what they give me to add info to the subject. I won’t be surprised if it’s a high number, it’ll just have to be pushed back further if it is.

 

[MoaByte]

Good morning @TheEngineer . No, I don't mind at all and I think it is good to be forewarned regarding costs and prices...especially for those new to the LC world that don't have welding and automotive repair skills (and the tools), but still want a 30-40 yo 4-Wheel drive in new-car condition. You can count me in this category because even though I try to do a lot of the work myself, I just wasn't up for the task when it came to re-gearing axles and cutting up body parts to eliminate the rust.

I assumed I could get the car painted for $8-10K and I got a couple of reputable paint shops to suggest a price in that range, but not make any commitments regarding the details of that work. I found one guy in Arizona that did a great job for about that price, but when I talked to him on the phone I must have asked too many questions. He was extremely upset at another person who had him paint a 60-serires and he shut me down hard because he thought I was also going to make him do $15K worth of work for $10K. I went hunting for classic car paint shops in Albuquerque and Santa Fe and got quotes in the $16K to $20K range.

Of course, Kelly Saad in Flagstaff is well known on this forum and I went to him early on when I realized I had rust in my A-channels and probably a bit along my drip rails. He thought it would cost me something in the $18K range and I just couldn't imagine spending that much money on a paint job. Ultimately, I realized that I would probably need to spend $12K to get a quality paint job, but none of those paint shops were willing to tackle the rust in any meaningful way. After another month of looking for paint and body shops, my wife convinced me that if I really wanted to restore the car and keep it for a long time then I might as well do it right. My 23 year-old daughter loves the truck and maybe the next step is a Ford electrical truck motor 10 years from now.

I called Kelly and put money down for a paint job 5 months in the future. In the end I think it cost me about the $18K he quoted and I figured he was paid about $75/hr for the work that he did...maybe a bit more or less, but actually pretty reasonable when you consider that price included all paint and supplies, etc. One additional note: Kelly told me that my car had less rust than any other car he had worked on before, but even so, the rust he predicted at the bottoms of the doors and wheel arches was there even though it wasn't visible from the outside. See photos and think about 5 years down the road in all of those spots after you just spent $10K for a paint job.

So...what will it cost you? It really depends on the condition of your car and what you want to achieve. Some people like rust...they call it patina and will pay extra for it. There are places on these vehicles that just get rusted, period. If you don't cut that rust out it will eventually show up. If you don't treat it with POR or some other preventative it will show up sooner rather than later.

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Honestly!

 

[TheEngineer]

Good morning @TheEngineer . No, I don't mind at all and I think it is good to be forewarned regarding costs and prices...especially for those new to the LC world that don't have welding and automotive repair skills (and the tools), but still want a 30-40 yo 4-Wheel drive in new-car condition. You can count me in this category because even though I try to do a lot of the work myself, I just wasn't up for the task when it came to re-gearing axles and cutting up body parts to eliminate the rust.

I assumed I could get the car painted for $8-10K and I got a couple of reputable paint shops to suggest a price in that range, but not make any commitments regarding the details of that work. I found one guy in Arizona that did a great job for about that price, but when I talked to him on the phone I must have asked too many questions. He was extremely upset at another person who had him paint a 60-serires and he shut me down hard because he thought I was also going to make him do $15K worth of work for $10K. I went hunting for classic car paint shops in Albuquerque and Santa Fe and got quotes in the $16K to $20K range.

Of course, Kelly Saad in Flagstaff is well known on this forum and I went to him early on when I realized I had rust in my A-channels and probably a bit along my drip rails. He thought it would cost me something in the $18K range and I just couldn't imagine spending that much money on a paint job. Ultimately, I realized that I would probably need to spend $12K to get a quality paint job, but none of those paint shops were willing to tackle the rust in any meaningful way. After another month of looking for paint and body shops, my wife convinced me that if I really wanted to restore the car and keep it for a long time then I might as well do it right. My 23 year-old daughter loves the truck and maybe the next step is a Ford electrical truck motor 10 years from now.

I called Kelly and put money down for a paint job 5 months in the future. In the end I think it cost me about the $18K he quoted and I figured he was paid about $75/hr for the work that he did...maybe a bit more or less, but actually pretty reasonable when you consider that price included all paint and supplies, etc. One additional note: Kelly told me that my car had less rust than any other car he had worked on before, but even so, the rust he predicted at the bottoms of the doors and wheel arches was there even though it wasn't visible from the outside. See photos and think about 5 years down the road in all of those spots after you just spent $10K for a paint job.

So...what will it cost you? It really depends on the condition of your car and what you want to achieve. Some people like rust...they call it patina and will pay extra for it. There are places on these vehicles that just get rusted, period. If you don't cut that rust out it will eventually show up. If you don't treat it with POR or some other preventative it will show up sooner rather than later.

Had my appointment with the body shop yesterday. For a full windows out, doors, chrome and all trim removed respray to the factory 033 white I was quoted $12k. That price includes a paint that carries a lifetime warranty. Not sure if that's standard but it was nice to hear. The estimator gave me a quote for some other work on the truck that I'll have them do in the mean time and their labor is $48/hr. They mentioned that I could do some things to save them time (and me money) by doing some of the prep work and I'm going to do what I can.

For the work they're doing for me now I'll need to strip the rear trunk of its sound deadening. I'll report back if that ends up saving me anything. For the eventual full respray I'm going to see what their hour estimate is and I'll just strip everything down myself.

I'm also going to have them repair and respray the dash pieces that I pulled from a grey donor 62. There's some rust and damage I want fixed before I take the plunge and do the swap.

 

[WoodnotRust]

@TheEngineer it sounds like you've found a shop that is willing to tackle the job in a meaningful way. What is the extent of your rust and how to you plan to deal with that issue...does the lifetime paint warranty include repairing areas that rust underneath the paint? It will take a lot of Lemon Gelato for you to get through all the prep work, but if you can do some of the work yourself and have the shop do the remainder you can probably save a lot of money in the end. Good luck. I really like the solid white enamel color which seems perfect for the beach.

 

[TheEngineer]

@TheEngineer it sounds like you've found a shop that is willing to tackle the job in a meaningful way. What is the extent of your rust and how to you plan to deal with that issue...does the lifetime paint warranty include repairing areas that rust underneath the paint? It will take a lot of Lemon Gelato for you to get through all the prep work, but if you can do some of the work yourself and have the shop do the remainder you can probably save a lot of money in the end. Good luck. I really like the solid white enamel color which seems perfect for the beach.

They’re the best shop in town and they’re great people. Interact a ton with our car club so I wanted to support them. As far as rust I have none except some surface spots where the previous owner scraped it on the trails. New Mexico/Arizona car it’s entire life before I got it.

I didn’t ask for specifics on the warranty but I’d imagine it covers only issues with paint itself. If I ding it up or it rusts from the inside I don’t believe that would apply.

I thought about doing the paint myself but after buying all the equipment, getting a space to do the work, spending all the time and money on all the little materials like gloves and sand paper I think I’d rather keep my sanity and let someone else do it. They’ll warranty the work and I know it’ll get done right. And I won’t have to store a bunch of equipment I don’t often use.