HOW??? - Remove running board mounts (1 Viewer)

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Oct 14, 2020
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Location
Charlotte, NC
How on earth do one remove the rear mounts for the running boards? They are in a channel right next to a body mount.

I really hope I don't have to remove that rusted body mount, but it seems like I have to. And if I have to? HOW do I replace those body mount bolts?

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Been a while, but I think: remove all others & remove board from remaining bracket, so all that's left is the one bracket. Remove lower bolt, then rotate the bracket and I think that gives enough access for the top.

I found a good reference video of it once, but can't seem to anymore.

Edit: this may help - start around 5:50 as he's taking off the lower bolt.

 
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I remember PB blaster and it was fiddly, nothing stands out as difficult. Sry I'm not more helpful.
 
I used a 3/8" drive ratchet, a wobble, and a six point socket. I think I also had multiple length extensions until I found the right angle and combination.

The other side I had to use a sawzall because the PO had a body shop rebuild them and they welded the nut and bolt in. Massive cobble job.
 
The other side I had to use a sawzall because the PO had a body shop rebuild them and they welded the nut and bolt in. Massive cobble job.
I broke a stud off on one of the others. How did you fix the stud on yours?
 
I broke a stud off on one of the others. How did you fix the stud on yours?
I didn't.

I bought WKOR sliders with 10° outside rail so I can use that as a step or a slider.

The factory sliders are weak and don't support a big guy like me.

Sliders bolt to the frame.
 
How on earth do one remove the rear mounts for the running boards? They are in a channel right next to a body mount.

I really hope I don't have to remove that rusted body mount, but it seems like I have to. And if I have to? HOW do I replace those body mount bolts?

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Mine were almost that bad when I pulled them. I had to remove the running boards and then the brackets. You'll have to soak them with your favorite penetrating oil (you know what mine is: used ATF and paraffin -not Sterno ;)) daily until they loosen up. IIRC, I had to use a ratcheting combination wrench, too.
 
It was a pain in the ass, but doable.
If I remember right an off-set wrench was the key. Didn't need to be cut.
 
Mine were almost that bad when I pulled them. I had to remove the running boards and then the brackets. You'll have to soak them with your favorite penetrating oil (you know what mine is: used ATF and paraffin -not Sterno ;)) daily until they loosen up. IIRC, I had to use a ratcheting combination wrench, too.
Ha. Have not tried Sterno yet. But soaked them for a while (weeks) without results. Will have to soak some more.
 
Ha. Have not tried Sterno yet. But soaked them for a while (weeks) without results. Will have to soak some more.
Mine took a month to loosen up, IIRC. I wasn't in a hurry, so it didn't bother me.

FWIW, there were no bolts, nuts or screws on the truck that were anywhere were this bad. I think it was due to the aftermarket/parts bin crap the dealer/port used to install the running boards. I soaked them in ATF for a week before I reinstalled them. I had to remove one side recently for something else and it came off like it was supposed to.
 
I want to remove the factory running boards as well, great info in this thread. I have some PB and will use it liberally.
 
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I put everything on there short of Texas Pete, but it WOULD NOT budge. Even broke a bolt off in the middle.

Then I bought an Induction Heater and used a socket Universal Joint and a short socket. Came out no problem. It took me months of fretting and fussing, and 15 minutes with the setup above. Sometimes the right tool is what you need.

Especially if they are rusty. Now anything that takes smaller than a 14mm wrench gets this treatment.
 
I put everything on there short of Texas Pete, but it WOULD NOT budge. Even broke a bolt off in the middle.

Then I bought an Induction Heater and used a socket Universal Joint and a short socket. Came out no problem. It took me months of fretting and fussing, and 15 minutes with the setup above. Sometimes the right tool is what you need.

Especially if they are rusty. Now anything that takes smaller than a 14mm wrench gets this treatment.

Interesting.
Not the cheapest option, but as you said, could be the right tool for the job in lots of situations
 
I put everything on there short of Texas Pete, but it WOULD NOT budge. Even broke a bolt off in the middle.

Then I bought an Induction Heater and used a socket Universal Joint and a short socket. Came out no problem. It took me months of fretting and fussing, and 15 minutes with the setup above. Sometimes the right tool is what you need.

Especially if they are rusty. Now anything that takes smaller than a 14mm wrench gets this treatment.
The way you're going, your special tool collection is going to rival mine and Dave's, if it doesn't already.
 

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