How much is too much? steering box adjustment.

[F-junker]

I recently tightened the center screw in my 78' FJ-40's steering box. The outer nut was a bit frozen on the screw. After turning and loosening it a bit I tightened the center screw as far as I could manage with the screwdriver then tightened the lock nut. When the locking nut was turned to firmness, I think it did actually wind the screw in a bit too.

So how much is too much? I'm going to be putting the head pipe on soon with a new gasket and am wondering if I should recheck it. what method have you all used? I know I'll hear the FSM but I've got several smaller FSMs and none have anything about the manual steering box on power.

BTW- it a manual box!

Thanks ken

 

[mminter1973]

Have you checked the drag link, tie rod ends etc... there are so many moving parts just a little slack in all of them adds up quickly.

You can adjust the center link a good bit but once you start it will wear pretty quick and a new unit will be needed. Ask me how i know!!

 

[Coolerman]

If you are trying to take up slop in your box that is NOT the way to do it. The slop can only removed by adding or removing shims inside the box. All that screw does is change the pre-load on the worm gear. If you set it too tight you can cause the worm to wear much quicker best case, and worst case, cause your steering to bind at a bad time.

Jeff Zepp has a 'rebuild your own steering box' section on his web page that covers the newer steering box. Might want to check it out.

 

[Fast Eddy]

What he said

x2

I got a bunch of slop out by tightening the drag link end; the 1st "tie rod end", connected to the steering box. It has a big, flat slot facing the back that's probably so full of crap you can't tell. As always, grease first, then don't adjust it too tightly. I'm sure there's a torque spec.

 

[Texx]

There's nothing wrong with adjusting the slack in the box itself, it adjusts out the wear. As long as your wheel will still self center after making a turn, it's loose enough. If you tighten it too much, you'll have to turn the wheel back to center physically. It's not gonna "bind at a bad time". Obviously, all the other places that have slack should be addressed too. I've only been driving 40's since 1972, but have never known adjusting the steering box properly to cause "additional wear" .

 

[mminter1973]

There is only one real solution to all Fj40 steering problems

(POWER STEERING)

unless you want a clean all original rig

 

[Pin_Head]

It is a bad idea to tighten the adjuster to compensate for slop due to wear on the bushings on sector shaft (what the Pitman arm bolts on to). The reason is that it may end up in cracking the box casting when you hit a bump hard.

Rock the steering wheel back and forth while looking at the big nut on the end of the sector shaft. If the shaft wobbles instead of just rotating, the bushings are worn.

 

[F-junker]

yes power steering is on the way but not until spring, I need to drive and enjoy this hunkajunka for a little while first.

I just got my tie-rod from Budbuilt and am waiting on the drag link to the center arm. the center arm was rebuilt and well as the rest on the front end. slop is in the box itself.

 

[Coolerman]

Best bet if you don't want to rebuild it is have someone rebuild it for you or buy a good used box. Mark A. rebuilds them and has the parts to rebuild it. Rebuilding one is easy as long as the sector shaft bushing is good. If it's bad you have to replace it then ream it out to fit properly.

Don't run the risk with your steering one of us might be in the other lane!